CompCrasher's 01 WJ Ltd - Page 175 - JeepForum.com

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post #2611 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 09:43 AM
JerzeyBoyWJ
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Yeah my rear brake line blew out when I went to bleeds brakes after I swapped in my 44a I got lucky it didn't happen while driving

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2003 4.0l wj- 6.5 inch IRO+.75 spacers. 4.56 gears. dana44a swap. 35x12.50 MTR Kevlars

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post #2612 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 11:17 AM
comptiger5000
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My mom's 99 had it done a few years ago when the line started seeping fluid from a rust spot.
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post #2613 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 01:24 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Well it looks to not be so bad of a job with my new rear calipers coming in. Any line bracket or fitting that offers resistance will be replaced because they're quite reasonably priced. But glad it wasn't just my Jeep because I was so religious about getting the underbody sprayed down with the unlimited wash pass this winter too.

So I'm waiting on Rockauto for the loaded calipers, then I'll probably do the Napa rotors again I liked those a lot. Torque wrench on everything and a ton of brake fluid because I want this to be awesome. Also picking up a flare nut wrench set from Sears because that seems like a great tool to have on hand.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2614 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 05:30 PM
snobrdrkid07
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I will have to check out the condition of my brake like as well. I really never noticed it, so it may have passed through the mild winters around here unscathed!

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600s | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100s | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2615 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 06:00 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07
I will have to check out the condition of my brake like as well. I really never noticed it, so it may have passed through the mild winters around here unscathed!
I think despite my efforts the line had probably already rusted enough before I assumed ownership of the Jeep that it was no longer salvageable. My suggestion if yours looks rusty at all is to pick up one of the prebent Mopar units or find a shop that will bend the European spec cuprous-nickel alloy line which is apparently much less prone to corrosion. Not only is it expensive but hard to find a mechanic that will work with it and do a clean good job without any kinks. At this price ill just replace it with the Mopar official one and oil that area of the frame heavily in the winters.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2616 of 2661 Old 07-31-2013, 09:09 PM
comptiger5000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
At this price ill just replace it with the Mopar official one and oil that area of the frame heavily in the winters.
Yeah, a $16 line every 10 - 15 years isn't too bad
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post #2617 of 2661 Old 08-02-2013, 07:10 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Arrived today: cubby out of an 04 to replace my loose/limp ash tray. Much nicer and better use of the space down there. A bunch of new door panel clips to replace a couple that were broken. (thanks Michael!). Also Arrived were these two awesome pieces, really clean well done calipers by A1-Cardone they're loaded so its got brand new pads, tension clips, slide pins, and a new bracket too, awesome. Bleeders are no longer a concern and next day I have off I'll go pick up a bunch of brake fluid and some rotors and have some really nice tight brakes with fresh fluid in them!






98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2618 of 2661 Old 08-03-2013, 09:25 AM
Ranger94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86
Hey guys check this out! Right from the dealership, Mopar solid brake line from master cylinder to the a-arm connector (mines very rusty and needs replacement)
And heres the shocking part:

What a deal right?!
Mine was getting rusty and busted (in the driveway thankfully) It was more like 35 at the dealers around here though.


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post #2619 of 2661 Old 08-03-2013, 09:37 AM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Cubby looks awesome! Thanks Michael!
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98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2620 of 2661 Old 08-03-2013, 07:26 PM
snobrdrkid07
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
Cubby looks awesome! Thanks Michael!
You're welcome man! Looking good!

~ 04 WJ Overland 4.7 HO | Graphite Metallic | Quadra-Drive | Vari-Locks | Bilstein 4600s | ADDCO Sway Bar | Powerstick Exhaust | RB1 | SuperChips Tuned | Much More to Come ~

~ 04 WJ Laredo 4.0 | Selec-Trac | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Silent Armor 245/70/17's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon HU | Alpine Speakers, Amps, and Subs | Bilstein SS | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars | Lots of Cool Stuff ~

~ 05 Rubicon Unlimited 4.0 | 6-Speed | Dana 44's | Air Lockers | 4.11 Gears | Rock-Trac 241OR T-Case with 4:1 4-Low | OME HD Springs | Bilstein 5100s | 245/75/16 Kevlar MT/R's on Moabs | Hansen Offroad Steel F/R Bumpers | Warn 9000xi Winch | Edge Performance Chip | Custom CAI | Hella Off-road Lights | Cobra 29 CB | Flash Lights | Recovery Gear | Fire Extinguisher ~

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post #2621 of 2661 Old 08-03-2013, 09:14 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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So! Updates. Hit the brake fittings with a bit of PB to make things easier still need to pick up those wrenches. Taking a 2 hr trip this next coming weekend so brakes will be getting done Monday-Tuesday. New console is awesome, much cleaner looking and a perfect spot for the aux jack. Also greased the tilt mechanism on the steering wheel and my "steering column pop" is now gone, what a quick and easy fix.
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98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2622 of 2661 Old 08-06-2013, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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New shiny parts! I'm taking a lunch break right now but I'll run through everything real quick.

For the rear calipers
Break lugs free (19mm). Lift Jeep by rear axle and support with jack stands. In order to access rear caliper bracket bolts you need to either pull the brake line or pull the caliper off the bracket. To minimize fluid loss I chose option 2. Depending on if your slides are original or aftermarket they may be hex or may also have indents for torx like mine. T? I forget which size. Pull caliper off and rest on LCA so it doesn't dangle from hose. Remove bracket with 18mm socket (bolts are TIGHT!) At this point replace the rotor if you need to. Im going with new loaded caliper so I figured why not give them a fresh surface to bed with. Here is the farthest I've gone with the brake system, until now. Check to make sure you can break the banjo bolt free (??" socket) from the old caliper fluid probably will start leaking. Snug it up gently to stop the leak and get your new loaded caliper bolted up. Mine just slipped right over the rotor it was great. Make sure you have them on properly, bleeder screw higher than the brake hose! Tighten the two 18mm bolts to 70lb-ft. Inspect caliper slides make sure they were greased at the factory. Undo the banjo bolt from the old caliper and try to work quickly once you're leaking fluid. Now, look for those two brand new copper washers that came with the caliper. You absolutely MUST use these on both side of the bolt (sandwiched between bolt and fitting and between fitting and caliper with the flatter side facing the fitting.) bolt the fitting up to the caliper (its keyed so it will go in one way). Torque the banjo bolt to 23lb-ft. You will be able to feel the copper washers compressing and its a bit disheartening because it feels like you're stripping the bolt out. But then your torque wrench will click/beep and you're good. Check brake fluid before doing the other side.




For the rear/mid-section line:
First check to make sure you can get your bleeders free. If not just do what I did and get new calipers its not worth trying to drill it out. Then what I did was mocked up my line and ran it parallel to the old one. Make sure you can get your new one in there before destroying the old one! What I found worked was fishing the rear over the crossmember to start and then slowly working it up to the engine bay from the bottom. This is very difficult and resist the urge to apply too much force or bend it as you will probably crease the lines. This was pretty easy with my 4.0 because I have space to spare. When I got it around the manifold and up into the engine bay I found I had trouble getting it under the intermediate shaft. So I just unbolted that from the steering box and slipped it up out of the way. Perfect. I had to fish it around a bit between the hoses to get it to line up properly. And then I went underneath and cleaned out the plastic clips (this is important! old rust and dirt and grime is in the clip and it'll just eat away at your new line.) and clipped the line into place. It lines up perfectly and I'm very happy to have paid $17 and played a small puzzle game vs $200 at my mechanic for him to custom bend a line. At this point I disconnected the old line at the a-arm (3/8 flare nut wrench) and the line twisted and snapped. Luckily the fitting came out without any trouble. But this left me with another problem, the fluid started leaking out... fast. Watching my reservoir go down slowly I knew I had to work quick. Surprise the fitting on the ABS pump on the other end of the same line was a different size. Double surprise it was METRIC! Come on Jeep... So anyways I didn't have a metric flare nut wrench so working frantically I tried to seal off the line so it stopped draining. 5 or so crimps in the line with a pair of dykes, a pair of vice grips, and a nice 90 degree bend and it stopped leaking. With the proper size wrench I finally got that cracked loose and thats where I breathed a sigh of relief and decided its time to take a lunch break. Whats next??




I still need to: reconnect the new brake line at the a-arm, finish removing the old brake line (I will be getting destructive and snipping that old POS with tin snips), finish clipping the line in, attach the new line to the ABS pump, and bleed! And no, not blood, my knuckles are already bleeding from trying to fix the e-brake. So all stupid seized rusty parts are out of the way and the new lines are shiny and clean so hopefully no leaks on my first try! Also going to clean up some edges around the brake lines and brush on some POR-15 onto some of the floorpan seams. The edges have some surface oxidation but it'll come right off with my wire wheel. Maybe today, we'll see how I'm feeling.

Also, I put new brake hardware in for the e-brake and I would very much like to kick the engineers at Jeep for making such a stupid system. Found out while I was in there that the shoes are broken on one side and well... very much GONE on the other side which I didn't even bother replacing the hardware yet. Those will need to be ordered and I'll probably wait until I'm up in Rochester to install them.




/long post

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2623 of 2661 Old 08-06-2013, 06:15 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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No leaks and everything is clean and tight but the pedal really isn't what I had hoped for. It needs to go into a local shop with DRBIII to have the ABS system bled too. The brake light came on too which means the ABS pump is now upset and has air stuck in it. Damnit.


Oh yeah by the way Jeep. SAE bleeders on the rear calipers and metric bleeders on the front? REALLY?

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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post #2624 of 2661 Old 08-06-2013, 09:29 PM
comptiger5000
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If you didn't replace the front calipers, it could just be a case of different bleeders used in the reman calipers compared to the stock ones.
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post #2625 of 2661 Old 08-06-2013, 09:33 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comptiger5000
If you didn't replace the front calipers, it could just be a case of different bleeders used in the reman calipers compared to the stock ones.
Nah its a case of Akebonos vs Teves design calipers. It does bother me though that on the front to rear line the abs end is metric and the a-arm end is SAE.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

Matt
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