CompCrasher's 01 WJ Ltd - Page 168 - JeepForum.com

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post #2506 of 2661 Old 04-02-2013, 12:15 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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1998 XJ Cherokee 
 
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Location: Marblehead, MA
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Fun times, yesterday got out and realized my Jeep was dripping trans fluid ahh late to class will catch it later. Observed leaks and boy was there an ATF shower under there. Not sure which of these caused it but here are my suspects:
Leaking hard line from flexing too much (new radiator isn't prefectly lined up for the hoses), over tightened hose clamp on the soft-hard line conversion, or worn out constant tension clamp where soft meets hard line. So I chopped an inch off my hose to eliminate any doubt and the radiator trans cooler has been bypassed for the time being. I have it all running through the aux cooler which should suffice until summer time without towing anything. I just don't feel like pulling that radiator up and out a bit until the weather has improved drastically. Oh yeah and I did damage control with the dripping ATF all over the frame and the parking lot.

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98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2507 of 2661 Old 04-02-2013, 12:27 PM
billzcat1
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That's a lot. CT clamps are almost never the culprit. OEMs use them for a reason. Check the regular hose clamps, they probably cut through the hose. Either that or you bunged up the radiator install somewhere.


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post #2508 of 2661 Old 04-02-2013, 12:46 PM
comptiger5000
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I've found the CT clamps are only good for a couple of uses before they don't hold tension well enough anymore. Trans cooler lines aren't under much pressure though, so that's probably not the issue.
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post #2509 of 2661 Old 04-02-2013, 01:29 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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I've reused the CT clamps a couple times too many. One of the hoses I was able to spin with my fingers. Also, it looks like I did overtighten one of the screw clamps. I really can't tell about the radiator fittings but I think the upper still was leaking. To avoid further confict I've bypassed the radiator trans cooler and I'm running it off my external trans cooler. I've got about 900 miles worth of driving this weekend so I can't risk any more leaks. Need to add more grease to the a-arm before I head off

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2510 of 2661 Old 04-13-2013, 01:25 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Went to rotate my tires today. I was getting a good bit of drag and scraping noises from the rear drivers side. So I tried adjusting the e-brake, nope. So I removed the e-brake, YUP :-D . But in all seriousness I don't need it for the time being and I think the springs are rusted out and stretched so they're not doing their job. Ill order some new hardware and shoes come summer time. Also have to look into replacing the rear calipers, they can't be bled for the time being (seized bleeders). That all can wait, as of now my ride got a whole lot quieter coasting.
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98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2511 of 2661 Old 04-13-2013, 06:27 PM
snobrdrkid07
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Yeah I still wonder why mine locked up on me the other week. Maybe the springs were getting weak as you had mentioned or, the large amount of snow jammed up in there. So they were rubbing even with the cable completely slack? Is there any binding in the cable, between the sheathing and the actual metal cable?

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post #2512 of 2661 Old 04-13-2013, 10:03 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by snobrdrkid07 View Post
Yeah I still wonder why mine locked up on me the other week. Maybe the springs were getting weak as you had mentioned or, the large amount of snow jammed up in there. So they were rubbing even with the cable completely slack? Is there any binding in the cable, between the sheathing and the actual metal cable?
I hate drum brakes. My little brother's mustang just has a lever that pulls the caliper and uses the pads. The design is so simple nothing has ever went wrong. I've really got to pull the whole rear end apart and redo everything. When I was in there I hit the pads and slides up with brake parts lube and man have my rear brakes never been quieter. Happy.

And the noise reduction from pulling out the e-brake, amazing.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2513 of 2661 Old 04-14-2013, 08:09 AM
comptiger5000
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Personally, I think the drum thing is better for e-brakes, as it separates that crap from the rear calipers. I'd rather have a slightly more annoying e-brake setup than complicated brake calipers and more risk of the actual calipers ****ing up.
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post #2514 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 01:09 AM
85IrocZ-28
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I like the double design, drum in a disc...However, I haven't ever driven a ZJ or WJ that had a really good parking brake.

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post #2515 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 02:22 AM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 85IrocZ-28
I like the double design, drum in a disc...However, I haven't ever driven a ZJ or WJ that had a really good parking brake.
The one in my ZJ never worked right, and the one in my WJ has been nothing but trouble. When I first got it, it didn't hold in gear, then it started making clicking noises as I was driving, so I pulled everything apart and adjusted it. E-brake had good tension, but would give with about 1300rpm. In MA to pass inspection it's supposed to hold to 1500rpm, but my inspection guy doesn't check. I noticed lately my rear ends been noisy (scraping noises) so while rotating my tires I spun the rears and got that scraping noise. So my PITA e-brake is gutted until I can put fresh hardware and shoes in, things still a pain in the butt. And those springs are horrible to work with too.

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2516 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 08:37 AM
comptiger5000
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The big issue is the hardware just wearing out over time, especially on e-brakes that don't get used often, so things get rusted in place and then broken free, etc.

Mine works, but it's a little screwed up. It works much better in reverse. In drive, it'll hold to about 1000 rpm. In reverse, it'll hold past 2000 no problem.
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post #2517 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 11:21 AM
85IrocZ-28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by compcrasher86 View Post
The one in my ZJ never worked right, and the one in my WJ has been nothing but trouble. When I first got it, it didn't hold in gear....
^X2 on everything you said...both my ZJ and WJ, always hated the poor holding ability of the e-brake.

Maybe I should at least replace the pads to see if that helps at all.

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post #2518 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 11:54 AM
billzcat1
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Add me to the club. Parking brake doesn't hold all that well. It's a Jeep thing. :-P


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post #2519 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 12:13 PM Thread Starter
compcrasher86
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All right! I knew it wasn't just me. Yeah I doubt my grandma ever used that when she owned it. My rear brakes need an overhaul so ill do that on jack stands under shelter this summer when it's in the 70s and I have my workshop back again :P until then I'm really enjoying not having the noise from whatever was dragging slightly. And I thought my rear end was going out HAH it was just a silly e-brake.


(knocking on wood)

98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather

SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |

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post #2520 of 2661 Old 04-15-2013, 12:14 PM
comptiger5000
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Yeah, new shoes and hardware in there and it should work just fine again. And hey, you could do it now. It's 70* outside
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