Since the jeep is getting the motor remanufactured, figured I might as well start a build page. Done a few things to it already, but here's some older before-ish pictures. Nothing too exciting. The biggest change will be with the 3" IRO lift, Black Moab wheels and new Hankook DynaPro ATM Tires 265/65/17. More to come after I get the jeep back in 2 weeks from the engine shop.
Trying to get rid of all the gray, so I painted the rear bumper insert. After having installed the reverse sensors and not wanting to take the whole bumper off again, I used an old trick with putting business cards, underneath. Very easy to do and total time took maybe an hour or so. Used 3 coats of adhesive promotor and 4 coats of satin black trim paint. Going for the black on black look and I'm pretty detail oriented so even scraped off the white lettering on the small window realease button. Think I'll leave the lights alone (not tint or paint them black) as I don't want to give the police any reason to pull me over. Still have to get the rock rails, front lower gray fascia and tow hooks painted black. After that maybe tint on the front windows.
This is looking good. Why are you getting your motor done? Can't wait to see the "murdered out" Betty with the lift!
I have a 66 bug I call Bettie.
Don't know for sure yet, but the engine seized. I bought it with 30k miles, put 30k more and used synthetic blend. This last time I used conventional, so don't know if that affected it- either way, with 60k miles, there shouldn't be a catastrophic failure. I am going for the "murdered out" look, but classy murdered out. Jeep got it's name from the ram jam song.
Originally Posted by 1AAdam
what are u holding hanging off the jeep? a sword? great pictures so far and keep us posted!!
It's a graphite golf shaft my buddy gave me to protect myself with. Since I didn't really need it for that, I used it as a walking stick- there was a ravine near where I was pictured.
Finally getting around to my lift install write-up. Here's what took me the whole weekend.
3" IRO lift with adjustable track bar and bilstein 5125 shocks (~$750),
4 265/65/17 (30.6") Hankook dynapro atm (~$760 installed), 245/70/17 (30.5") spare (~$50 skinnier to fit in wheel well).
I thought about going to 4", but then would have had to find a way to carry the larger tires, so
I went with these tire sizes as it was the largest I could run and still fit a spare in the carrier.
17" JK Wheels powdercoated gloss black ($35 per wheel cost, $60 each to powdercoat),
Rusty's steering stabalizer 2.2 ($50), Rough Country quick disconnects ($60). Rought Country 2" front and rear bump stop extensions (ordered a-la-carte). I also bought their rear shock relocater, but when trying to install, looked like it would make the shock hit the rear addco swaybar, so i didn't install it.
I started at 11am on Saturday morning. I recommend starting much earlier, like 5am because of time needed to set-up tools, jack up vehicle, etc. Egg-McMuffin got me going. The IRO instructions are too basic, so also reference the one from Zone that has good pictures. I started by spraying deep penetrant on the nuts. I also loosened all the bolts like in the instructions of IRO (front, rear upper / lower control arms, track bar, end links). I recommend using an electric impact wrench- it's worth the $40, + $30 for tips and extensions from Harbor Freight. I also recommend buying a 21mm wrench. My wrenches capped out at 19mm, so I used an adjustable for the 21mm, which was a pain.
Removing front shocks. The passenger did not want to budge, which seems very common. The answer is to use a vice grip to keep the mast from spinning. I just wanted to post a visual so people can see what that means. You need to cut the boot with a razor blade. Note: the vice grips need to be very very very very tight. The red box on the right in the second picture is of the differential breather connecter that sits on top of the driver side top bolt that was where the box on the left was. I zip-tied this away. the 3rd picture below is of the shock removed. 4th picture is the front with multiple jacks. Please use plenty of jacks for safety.
Removing driver side trac bar retaining bolt. -19mm in the front. The back is a weird bolt that isn't welded on, but will hit something to stop spinning. At this point I mistakenly tried to install the new trac bar and it got stuck and was a pain to get out. Don't do that now, wait until you install everything else in the front and drop the vehicle on the front two tires. Then install the front track bar. I didn't really adjust mine at all, in fact it was screwed to it's shortest setting.