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Introducing MONSTALINER™ UV Permanent DIY Roll On Bed LinePANDEMIC-USA 50" Double row LED LIGHT BAR!! These thi50" SINGLE ROW PANDEMIC LED Light bar FEATURES 4D Opt

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Unread 09-09-2013, 05:36 PM   #1966
Spike300
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get a 231 out of a dodge so it already has the wider chain and gears and slowly built it up as you find parts/ used parts

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[url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/camo-beast-975063/[/url]

5.2-242 tcase-44a-30x9.50x15 MT/R-American Racing Burst Rims -[COLOR="Red"]Optima[/COLOR] -E3 plugs-[COLOR="DarkGreen"]Cu[/COLOR]st[COLOR="DarkGreen"]om[/COLOR] Pa[COLOR="DarkGreen"]in[/COLOR]t-Amsoil-Addco Front and Rear-polyurethane bushings

[B]To be installed[/B]: RE gen2 discos, military battery terminals
[B]To be rebuilt:[/B] HP30
[B]To be received:[/B]
[B]To be paid for:[/B]

[B]Next on the list:[/B] complete redo of brakes and
lines
[B]Needed:[/B] fittings, coil of brake tubing, Russel speed bleeders

Zombie Outbreak Response Unit #75
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:21 PM   #1967
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Update:


Decided on going with a 231...

- 231j with a build date of February 1996 out of an XJ: acquired
- Wide chain, front output shaft, and chain sprocket out of a Durango 231D HD: acquired
- 231 rebuild kit: ordered
- 231D 1.25" NEw chain: ordered
- JB conversions SYE: ordered
- 6 pinion planetary gear: ordered
- ZJ 231 4wd indicator switch: waiting for the salvage yard to yank it and send me a pic

Hopefully everything that has been ordered will get here by friday. Stay tuned for more pics and progress
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:34 PM   #1968
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Throw in a 2wd 2low. I still regret not doing that while mine was apart.
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Unread 09-16-2013, 12:36 PM   #1969
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I would but I just dont have the extra funds. Itll even be a stretch to get my current rear cv shaft lengthened to work with the 231 sye...
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Unread 10-14-2013, 10:17 AM   #1970
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VIBRATION FREE AT LAST! oh my god I am so happy right now.

I will update again later with more details and pics of course when I am on my laptop.
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Unread 01-24-2015, 04:40 PM   #1971
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^^^^ Ok, so I jumped the gun.

I am NOT vibration free. I have spent the last year or so intermittently chasing down my vibes. I am beginning to think it is the Tranny output bearing.


I apologize, I have just gotten wrapped up with school and work (currently at two internships - both part time) and haven't updated this thread. So I owe you guys a hefty update.

Don't worry though; I have been lurking the past year or so and have been working on the ZJ's a bunch. The 5.9 became a major PITA for awhile but it's still going tough.



I promise an update sometime this week. Maybe tomorrow unless I chose to work on the ZJs all day.. Regardless, soon my friends, soon.


John
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Unread 02-13-2015, 10:22 PM   #1972
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where to begin........


Ok, I suppose the built 231....... scrap this update is going to take awhile. its 12:04AM right now..

before



wider sprocket



6 pinion planetary


speedo tooth comparison


factory NV231 vs JB Conversions 231 HD SYE shaft



End product




MY vibrations were reduced but not completely gone as I originally thought. But they were ok enough that I could drive up to 55 VERY comfortably without vibes. So i drove.

MY first test drive felt so comfortable that I even ventured off the road on my buddy's property. Nothing major, but felt like a mini-benchmark if you will.



I thought I uploaded more pis but apparently not...

Put the front bumper back on, roof lights, 5.9 roof rack, and the interior... starting to come around... Love this pic





Refinished the Gauge needles with a red sharpie



And I drove it some more... for those of you unaware, this ZJ now has driven a total of around 400 miles since October 2009.. ~260 of which were in the fall/winter of 13-14'.. I will explain why it stopped around 260 a little later on...


proof pics








Then I tossed in the extra factory cooler that I had as a P/S cooler..



Then it got a little colder outside and I decided to do some electrical work....

Then I chose to do some electrical work...
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Unread 02-13-2015, 10:29 PM   #1973
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I really missed this view.... between the sunroof and my roof lights just hangin' over.. nostalgic.







^^^ the damn double sided tape isn't holding my ballasts up.... need to figure out an alternative but don;t have any good ideas... Any input? might have to make a thread on HIDplanet..







But being a company that distributes a LOT of product, DDM tuning will have its problems occasionally... I STILL havent called them about this... god. ^^^^ roof lights are 35w 8000k.
They are freakin BRIGHT at night, LOVE it.



I also took the time to consolidate all my extended breather lines.. 46re, 231, and d44a breathers. Gotta redo the hp30 breather line...


Yay waterproofing
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Unread 02-13-2015, 11:07 PM   #1974
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Ok, so why did I randomly stop driving my Black ZJ???


The Niner's headers cracked...












My mother, God love her, was so happy to be alive (refresher: she was diagnosed with stage 4 cervical cancer in Feb of 2013 - she is in remission now THANK GOD), that she spoiled me ROTTEN both Christmas 2013 and 14'.. She bought me a new set of Thorley Headers. I honestly tried to refuse to let her but she wouldn't have it. And damnit she is where I get my stubbornness from..



New thorleys with painted 5.9 exhaust..





BUT





they did not fit right!








contacted thorley, sent the, pics. the sent me a new set no questions asked.. I STILL need to send the bad set back to them... ugh... that was January 2014...




So why did I stop driving my BLACK zj??


In my research of trying to find out why the niners headers cracked, it learned that an improperly supported exhaust could cause this.. My BLACK ZJs exhaust was not properly supported. So I got paranoid. Did not want another set of cracked headers.



Now, the new headers ended up going on my BLACK zj, because it is the ZJ I will have longest. I will not have the 5.9 for too much longer. Maybe another year and a half to two years????

When I graduate this December (2015), get my big kid job, and am able to save up and find the right one, I want an EVO VIII.




Anyways, this past winter was a very cold one. Numerous below zero temperature days. And I got a new XBOX 360 so my love for Halo rekindled and I spent my winter on XBOX Live tearin' it up.



But I had some fun with the niner at least.












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Unread 02-13-2015, 11:31 PM   #1975
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So it took me until about June to finally touch my BLACK zj again.. Halo really took over for awhile.... lol


In addition to the thorley headers and WAY too many other presnets that I got christmas 13', I got a Clayton Crossmebr (queue the holy church music )





But one problem.... I had that old crossmember made up by a friend of a forum memeber welded on.......




whip out the grinder and sawzall. and a few months of sore back..



ah crap its like 1:30.. and technically its Valentine's Day. and the redbox movie my gf and I was watching is over.... sooooooo I gotta get off here ... I will edit this post tomorrow and finish up this here update







edit: back to the update


Before:


During:




Cleaned up:



While cutting the old stiffeners and crossmember off, my unibody suffered some damage here and there (cuts, gouges, etc) so I had do some repair work on it. It was not fun.


Now since there was already steel welded to the unibody, I was concerned the unibody steel itself had weakened and would not hold up to being welded to again (in the same area). So I decided to plate the entire mid rails. 1/8" on the sides, and 16ga (to match the existing unibody thickness) on the slopes and bottom. My thoughts were, the 1/8" would provide a good tie in for the 16ga, future sliders, and would just overall stiffen it up. I chose 16ga on the bottom and slopes just to add some thickness for the sake of welding on a new set of Clayton stiffeners.

And so began the tiresome, mindless, repetitive task of cutting out the steel and drilling SO many holes to do some plug welding...





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Unread 02-14-2015, 11:57 AM   #1976
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Cut and drill. This was one of the most mind-numbing tasks I've ever done...








Used Weld-Thru primer on everything.. Even though you can technically weld on the primer itself. I chose to clean ALL welding surfaces for peace of mind.
Oh, and cleaning all the surfaces after priming them was mind numbing too. UGH


Start plug welding...










All this welding in the above pictures took place over the course of about 2 months during the late fall/early winter with colder temps. On top of that, I was very cautious with my welding and would not make another larger/hotter weld until metal in that area had cooled down to say room temperature or at least <100* F (guestimating the temp of course). With that being said, I am not worried about welding too much to the unibody. I used a mini pencil light that I have and was able to peer into the unibody midrails (area between xmember and rear LA brackets) and checked for penetration, stress cracks, or any other notable sign that indicated the condition of the base metal.. I know that I blew through the unibody with a total of 3 or 4 plug welds (scattered across the rails, not all in the same area) which I attribute to the properties of the metal in those specific spots. But otherwise, my plug welds appear to have penetrated well without blowing through. I noticed one tiny stress crack, however, it is in an area that I havent welded over yet so I will make sure to glob the wire in a little bit to fill it in. Should be fine.. I think?


I am not 100% done welding, I still need to weld the verticals where the 1/8" meets the 3/16" rear lower LA unibody brackets. Want to make a few practice welds first since there is a small gap..




Now while all this cutting, drilling, and welding was going on I had to engage in some side taskts/projects to get my mind off the mundane drilling and cutting..

For one, I lengthened my front upper arms a short amount (got the steal for cheap - buddy's dad is the president of a local structural steel supplier/fabricator)






Tapped the spring buckets for bumpstop bolts


adjusted my front pinion angle a little and my springs bowed a little bit
I think it went away a little bit though.. Could be wrong.. but right now it is not my absolute top priority but it will be solved one way or another at some point


Pressed in my Prothane 1504 poly mount into the tranny mount cradle (correct term?)



I then painted the mount afterwards, no pics though

I recently installed that mount and dang you can feel it at idle. And with the poly motor and tranny mounts it sounds like there is a low constant bass. Not 100% sure if I will keep the poly mounts, but supposedly they're harsh at first then "break in" after a week of driving. So I will give them a chance to break in then decide.
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Unread 02-14-2015, 12:28 PM   #1977
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Moving on like I mentioned earlier, the new Thorleys went on BLACK




And with the install of the Clayton crossmember, my previous built exhaust would not fit. And that is fine, I didn't really like it to begin with.
But I was stuck with having to build the new exhaust on my own with no prior exhaust fab experience other than cutting out muffler, welding in replacement section of pipe and other small stuff like that.. So this was an experience...


However, I was successful at running a FULL 3" mandrel bent exhaust from headers back through a rear Clayton LA set up..

The KEY, is to get a smaller cat, and move said cat as far forward as possible to allow for the use of a larger sized muffler if you wish.

I got a really small magnaflow spun racing cat, and decided to go back to the Flowmaster Super 44. I just really like the tone of the 44 more than the 10 and the 10 at 65-75 with 4.56s was too loud.

I spent A LOT of time designing this exhaust, making sure everything wuld clear both present and future (TJ rear swaybar, Clayton Belly skid, limit straps, etc). I played with several different angles, double, and triple checking things.

I'll let the pics do the talking:

Magnaflow 59959 Cat


Next to my old Maggy Carsound highflow cat. It's so small!
















^what a PITA















And the final product, well without paint...





Then it was time to cycle the suspension to double check everything cleared.
Only one spot was a slight concern but my rear pass shocks uptravel was basically done and I will have bumpstops in the future so I think I will be fine.





^^exhaust flange close to axle truss. But I explained that above.




I have two short videos that I will have to upload. They are ok videos, I want to take a better one at some point but yeah.. I'll get those up here soon
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Unread 02-14-2015, 12:37 PM   #1978
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Now meanwhile, I began to hate my Niner this past summer.
Began clunking, popping, thudding over every and any bump, shift, acceleration from stop, anything.

Found this one day...................:






So i had that fixed by a local Jeep/4x4 shop. I did not want to do that myself. I was still just learning to weld to the unibody of my BLACK ZJ when this occured. Now, I would probably take this on...

Then it was still clunking and I was pissed. Turns out some bolts were loose (not finger loose) and the CA bushings needed greased. Operated, and sounds went away. Had a small scare thinking the pass rear UCA mount was going to rip off considering there is a small crack in the unibody somewhere near it but am really just hoping it lasts until I can get my Evo.. Will probably part this thing when its all said and done..











At least the damn thing can clean up nicely.. Even if it is just the Bright Metallic Platinum..(wish I had a Deep Slate w/sunroof)

Fast forward around December I was having issues with the 5.9s interior lights coming on over every bump. I knew the door pins had been bad and replaced those over the summer. But they had torn the door latch sheet metal so the latch mechanism itself was kind of free floating and didn't have the greatest hold on the door (could hear some wind and road noise). But the interior lights was the last straw..

Decided to reinforce the area.

Before



During


After


Still haven't painted the bare metal, but it works flawlessly even without being welded on.


So speaking of December, I got two sets each of 6 and 12 ton jackstands from harbor freight (amongst other goodies, but these are relevant to this forum). I was researching something before Xmas and came across a jackstand horror story thread. Decided I wanted some extra muscle.






So after Christmas, actually right before my birthday on Jan 10, the 5.9 struck again.

I had previously replaced the radiator around November because it was done. So I was driving along and the coolant light flashed on ( I ignored it because it used to always do that with the rad leaking). But suddenly my temp guage hit 210 and I knew there was a problem. Cranked the heat and had cold air blowing at me. Ok big problem. Managed to drive another 7-10 miles home ( thank god it was snowing and cold out) with next to no coolant.

Investigated, and thought it was the waterpump bc it looked like there was a slight trail from the weep hole. Bought a Mopar waterpump, installed, filled with coolant. Checked for leaks. Fine for about a minute then a steady trail of coolant starting pissing out the timing cover gasket. GREAT! Just after I put the entire waterpump, accessory bracket and everyhting else back on.. UGH..



Tore back into it, yanked the timing cover and found this.... YUP that would explain it!




Replaced with Felpro Permadry gasket. Gotta say those Permadry's are nice they remind me of the MOPAR tranny pan gasket (steel core with rubbery outside - I can't remember the correct technical term...steel embedded? I don't know)


No leak!


Now, I did not replaced the timing chain (I know, I know). I really just did not feel like it. Nor did I want to spend the extra money (Christmas wiped me out), and I just didn't want to dump extra money into something I might be parting out within the next 2 years? <--again that is still an unknown, but I figure when I go for an EVO, I won't get a dime for the 5.9 @ 208k miles for a trade in, nor do I want to sell this to somebody knowing that the unibody is falling apart from rust (seems to me it has been kept outside for a majority of its life... or at least since Roger got it from Kurt) unless they knew, understood, and would tackle the unibody themselves... aka somebody like me that won't take no for an answer and go above and beyond on something that 90% of people would give up on, not give a chance, etc etc. .. So the next best thing would be to part it.. I considered for a hot minute keeping it even if I got an EVO but decided against it for a couple reasons: unibody rust, its platinum, NO SUNROOF.. I will never understand why in the hell they made 5.9s with no sunroofs. Roger used to brag that it was uber rare for that reason and it was 1/6xx Niner's made but who cares! I LOVE my sunroof on BLACK and miss it every single day.





Ok I'm rambling...

Next and final topic to bring everything up to date in a new post.
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Unread 02-14-2015, 01:39 PM   #1979
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Ok, for the final post to bring you all up to date.


The front shaft that I originally had for BLACK turns out is too short... or at least I thought... So I had grabbed a front shaft out of a 93-95 V8 ZJ (longer: ~33" compressed I think) a year or so before. So I went and cleaned and rebuilt the shaft (joints, DC joint) then took it to a local driveshaft shop and had them shorten/balance it to ~32" at ride height. Being so convinced that my rear shaft was the source of my pulsing vibrations, I had them recheck the balance on it which they did for free since they had done previous work to it (shortening for 242 SYE, changing to 3110 DC joint from 1330, lengthening/retubing it for my 231 HD SYE, etc).

Both shafts checked out good and within their allowable range of error (which is more strict than the typical industry standard range). I was really hoping they were going to come back saying the rear shaft was misbalanced but they didn't.. So I figured install the front shaft and do some jackstand driving tests for vibrations.. Which I did.

Pics:



From top to bottom: My rear shaft (originally an 06? Rubicon front shaft which has been modified a lot), 93-95 5.2 ZJ Ujoint front shaft, 96-98 ZJ ujoint front shaft.
This was before I took the two shafts to the shop, hence the barish metal on the 93-95..

Other note: all 3 of those shafts have been completely rebuilt... However, I have learned that the 96-98 shaft is hosed (spline slop) and vibes like hell at 70+ MPH in my 5.9.. Need to take it out...

Jackstand testing with the shortened 93-95 shaft in, tcase in 4part, and no rear shaft in.


Sure enough, vibes are still there.. **** me...

Got mad, and put the tcase in 2wd (thus only the engine, tranny, and tcase were spinning.
Sure enough, ******* pulsing vibe. With no driveshafts spinning...

Vibe Characteristics (no driveshafts spinning):
- 45mph - Begins. Very faint. But there.
- 50mph - Almost nonexistent but there.
- 55mph - Noticeable by feel and sound.
- 65-75mph - Intensity and frequency of pulsing increases with speed and rpm. Rearview mirror begins to blur as if I had my sub turned up.


So, process of elimination:
Only components left to source the vibration:
- Engine, tranny, tcase.

- Tcase: newly rebuilt 231HD w/SYE and the vibes were present with my old 242. Removed from equation.

- Engine: check Harmonic balancer for wobble, looks like it spins perfectly. Check to make sure the outer portion did not spin but moving to TDC and checking distributor rotor to make sure it was pointing at #1 terminal (or whichever cylinder TDC points at - don't worry, I used the FSM, just having a brain fart). Engine eliminated.

- Tranny: in the back of my head, I have ALWAYS thought it was the rear output shaft bearings located in the OD housing. Always, always, always thought that since there have been so many pulsing vibe threads (that I have read and some reread 2-3 times) and nobody that was not able to solve the vibe checked those bearings. I guess I just always shifted the blame to my rear shaft because I did not want to have to replace that bearing in the tranny.... . I also questioned the torque converter but felt that if the TC was bad, then wouldn't I have vibes across all speeds not just 55+?

Picked Martin Saine's (MSaine) brain and talked with him regarding replacing the bearing. And I have rear several 46re rebuilt threads, 46re OD rebuilds, Baxy's 46re tutorial, a video showing how to disassemble and rebuild the OD section, etc etc. I can do this.


So I have been shopping and shopping and more shopping of tranny parts from multiple different sites to determine which site has the best overall price and selection of parts. Looks like Transmission Parts USA has the best final price on parts and the largest and most inclusive parts selection.


I will be (as of right now unless MSaine tells me different when I email him today) buying:




I just today bought a 20ton press from HF for $128 out the door It was listed at $200..

I will either buy a sawed off intermediate shaft on ebay or snag one from the junkyard along with another front shaft...

And I will use either a two pieces of ABS Tubing (one 3.5" section and one 3" section") or a piece of 3" exhaust tubing to compress the OD spring (don't worry, I already did compressive strength tests on the ABS plastic by figuring out its compressive strength online than figuring out square inches of surface contact.. it checks out fine..... Whoops, did my Construction Management side just come out? I think so )
Heres where I got that idea:
http://dodgeforum.com/forum/2nd-gen-...-progress.html
about half way down the page, or the beginning of his second post...


Anyways, I will be yanking my tranny out soon and replacing this bearing.. Luckily I have a spare, bad 46re that I can take apart side by side for reference/practice.

So if it is NOT that bearing, then I will suspect the torque converter. . If not that, then I don't know and will be out of ideas. But I WILL NOT give up. I have put WAY TOO MUCH time, money, and my sanity into this project for it not to drive like a dream. And this vibration has been the reason that it has hardly driven at all over the past 5 years or so. I don't want to risk breaking something else, or wearing something else down due to the vibrations.






and BOOM


this thread is up to date.. That took way too long. And my god I forgot how badly Photobucket bogs down a computer (even my laptop with 8GB of ram and an i7 processor feels like an old Pentium 4 processor. Now that I closed PB I'm good LOL)


Sorry for such a large gap. Been busy with school, two internships, GF, mom, life, ZJs, Halo, etc. But I'm still around working on the ZJs and kicking



If anybody has any further input regarding the tranny (or anything for the matter), please, speak your mind. I take everything into consideration, especially what other people say. There are plenty of other people out there that know more than me so I always accept input and constructive criticism. Now, criticism without good intentions, GTO


One final note, sorry for the Harry Potter size novel of post(s). Had lots to cover and say.
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- 1996 Black ZJ Limited: 5.9 swap, LA's, axles, absolutely built to hell
- 1998 Platinum 5.9 Limited: DD with some lighter modifications
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Unread 02-14-2015, 01:42 PM   #1980
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Ok, I just scrolled over all of that real fast and saw how long it was and how much I wrote and realized NOBODY is going to read all of that lol.

Oh well, may entertain somebody for a couple hours.


John
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