It was easy to measure the difference, and its not even a difference in travel, just a difference in extended length. The total amount of travel is the same. So yeah, I just moved the mount on the tie rod over about 1/2". It's easy to measure C-C on the SS. Measure extended length, measure collapsed length, half-travel is halfway between. I had to do the same when I installed the JKS tie rod and place the bracket for the OEM SS.
It's really easy. No it doesn't extend on its own like a gas-charged shock. It's a 50/50 damper. Set it where you want it, bolt it on. 20 minute job.
Just got my SS today. What's your thoughts on the boot? At full compression it seems to be bunching up and popping off the end grommet so I'm worried about it interfering.... You seem to have out yours on, is It causing any concern? Also I think from your pictures it looks like you're using the bolt with the included nylock on the tie rod end. Does that mean this configuration in the instructions is wrong?
Edit: figured the bolt out. I wasn't able to relocate the bracket because it sits in a detented portion of the tie rod and it's already as far as it can go. Even If I was able to bend the bracket up over the detent it would be half on and half off it
98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather
SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |
Sorry Compcrasher - I somehow missed this post. Glad you got it figured out! With the OEM tie rod, I suppose you can't really relocate the bracket. Not an issue on the JKS as it is constant diameter. I had forgotten about that issue. With the bolt, I just used the bolts that came with it. There was one set of hardware that obviously wouldn't work and one set that worked perfectly. The hardware set you have pictured is the one that didn't work (I think). The tapered sleeve is not for the Jeep applications but rather for the myriad of Fords the SSD107 fits as well.
As for the boot, yes it comes off the retainer sometimes, but then steering the opposite direction seems to pop it back on. It's not the greatest but its better than nothing. You could also put a hose clamp on it to keep it fully seated on the moving side of the SS. Now that it is on, what do you think?
What's new? Well, I decided that I was tired of the giant A-pillar blind spot and top-heavy look with the window vent shield thingys. So I pulled them off and spent 3 hours getting the double-stick tape off the driver's side doors. Then my buddy loaned me an "eraser wheel" which goes in the drill and took 15 minutes for the passenger side. Handy! I'm definitely glad they are off.
Today was a wheeling day at Tahuya State Forest which is one of the few places that is open at the moment, most of the mountain wheeling I enjoy is closed due to snow. The snowmobilers take over! The wheeling was good, nothing new for equipment but the steering stabilizer. Super Trail Boss did great, actually noticeably better to wheel with, no harsh impacts to the steering when I caught roots or a rock with a single tire.
Wheeling... WOW. LOTS of water at Tahuya. Also... a munched passenger side. On one tricky section I've done several times before, the ruts were washed out a lot by the winter's rains. I slid right into a dirt wall, munching the passenger fender, mirror, and both doors. Popped my cherry! It was only inevitable with wheeling this thing 6-8 times a year that body damage would happen. What I'll do next I have no idea. Considering fender cuts, bedlining the lower half, fixing it outright, don't know.
VariLoks worked flawlessly today, there was nothing that they couldn't handle in the twisty off-camber stuff where the Disco had to take several runs (open/open). I'm still thrilled with the WJ's performance off-road.
Here's the pics! (and video)
Video of that hill climb
Oh Shizz! Where's that snorkel when you need it? Maybe relocating the intake to the cowl is in order.
Discovery on 32s in the same sippy hole. Deeper than we both thought!
The offending section that claimed my fender + doors
you made that hill look so EASY! hahah. and man thats a lot of water....spooky.
ouch on the damage...it reminds me of one of your posts where you said to a few fellow members you didnt want to wheel with them because you didnt want to get trail damage lol
Bronson = 21 yrs. old
BUILT, NOT BOUGHT - WORKED HARD FOR, NOT KISSED MOMMY/DADDYS A** FOR!
Build Thread - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/alwayshi-build-thread-1256466/ - SOLD
No, the fender and both doors are pretty banged up. Foot-long gouge on rear door just above the cladding, whole fender flare is pop-canned. Kicking myself, especially since I got warned about this section.
You have me thinking pretty seriously about those Silent Armors in a little larger size for my WJ (245/75R16), it looks like they perform pretty well in the type of wheeling I'd do. Of course I'd have to add the Vari-locks to my Selec-Trac WJ too.
Thanks for the pics too, looks like a great place to wheel.
I'm pretty darn happy with them. I have taken them through everything but deep mud and lots of sand and had no issues whatsoever.
You could also look into Detroit TrueTrac LSDs if you can't find a good price on VariLoks, or a lunchbox rear and TrueTrac front. DD friendly, lots of traction. TrueTracs actually work faster than VariLoks since they are gear-driven and bias torque prior to wheel spin occurring. Their disadvantage is that they don't work at all if you have a wheel in the air, the amount of torque biased is a multiplier of the wheel with the least available grip on the axle.
As for the locale- it's a State Forest with about 7 miles of 4x4 trails and it's "close to home", only 80 miles away. It's the closest thing we have to an ORV park around here. I like the mountains better, but they are all snowed in and trails closed to wheeled travel. Snowmobiles only.
After the last wheeling escapade, I have been eyeballing the body damage. Still not sure what I'm going to do about it. This weekend's micro-project was to check the diffs and see how much water was in there. After all, I drove through more-than-wheel deep puddles. While the front diff has an extended breather, the rear I cannot see any breather provisions at all.
So I cracked open the front diff first. A couple thoughts:
I love the Lubelocker. It made pulling the cover extremely easy and was resuable. The front diff took 1/4 the time the rear took thanks to the Lubelocker gasket. Worth the $20 for sure. I wish they had one, or even a gasket for the Dana 44a.
The Grade 5 bolts supplied with the Riddler Diff Cover are crap. The LubeLocker specifies 35ft-lbs on the bolts to properly compress the gasket. 35 ft-lbs is to tight for a 5/16 grade 5 bolt, max bolt load before it yields is 17 ft-lbs. Then again, torque-to-yield can provide additional clamping force. I went with 30 ft-lbs, which is the factory spec on the bolts. When originally installed, all 10 bolts torqued fine at 30ft-lbs. However, after draining the fluid and cleaning the diff, I went to re-install. Well, after torquing 4 bolts I started having issues, bolts that wouldn't hold torque. They just kept turning and the wrench never clicked. I've been down this road before. Bolts are fatigued and stretching. One snapped. All of them showed deformation of the free threads.
So all the Grade 5s went in the garbage. So I went to Lowe's and picked up 10 5/16-18 x 1" Grade 8 bolts, Grade 8 lock washers, and some Grade 8 flat washers. I needed the flat washers to accommodate the longer bolts, the bolts I was replacing were 7/8" long. Grade 8 on a diff cover is overkill, but it seems that's what it takes to maintain the torque spec that the Lubelocker requires.
As for the front diff, there was only a tiny amount of water, in the form of milkshakey sludge.
The rear, well it was a PITA as usual. I hate RTV. Sure it works great, but getting the cover off and then the following clean-up process is always messy and time-consuming. I also found that the bottom edge of the pumpkin has been taking a beating. Lots of aluminum was getting pushed back into the diff cover flange area. Once everything was off and cleaned, I flattened the flange out using a file. I'm seeing the need for a simple skid plate here, something that attaches to the bottom of the diff cover, right angles forward at the bottom of the diff and goes forward up toward the pinion. I'll have to spend some time measuring and come up with something.
The rear diff had a significant amount of water in it. The fluid (Redline) was brown and murky, milkshake-like. Definitely glad to be in there changing it! The front had so little in it, it probably would have evaporated off. The rear, no sir.
All in all, that one sippy hole cost me $70 worth of perfectly-good Redline and the majority of my Saturday. No more deep water holes for me!
Billz, where are the differential breather tubes located at? I was figuring they were a little higher up from the differential. But, when I looked at my diffs tonight, I couldn't really find where a possible breather tube would be. I had also read that when water fording there was a possibility of getting water into the transmission via the breather vent?
~ 04 WJ 4.0 | Selec-Trac 242 | MBP | OME HD 3" Lift | JKS TB | IRO Front LCA's and UCA's| Bilstein 5100's | Custom Front D.S. | Stillen Rotors/Metal Matrix Pads | Tow Package w/ 3.73's | Projectors w/ 55w HID H1 5000K Lows | Sylvania Ultra 9005 Fogs | Moog HD Steering | Kenwood eXcelon Radio | Memphis Speakers | Alpine Amps | Alpine Subs | Moog STB SS | Superchips Flashpaq | Auxiliary Transmission Cooler | Rock Lights | Light Bars ~