I know theyve all been mentioned but if you're looking on the higher price range Duratrac, MTR/K, or again with the Silent Armors (A/T). My buddy has BFG AT-TAKOs and albeit expensive those tires were beefy and had some nice side lugs, good grip and not much noise at all on the highway... until he forgot to rotate them. They're picky about that.
98 XJ Sport | i6 | AW4 | 231 | Stone White | Agate Leather
SOLD 01 WJ Ltd | i6 | QT2 | Moog HD steering | Tow Package | Boston Acoustics Audio | RB1 | Lou's Catback | Stone White |
BFG AT-TAKOs and albeit expensive those tires were beefy and had some nice side lugs, good grip and not much noise at all on the highway... until he forgot to rotate them. They're picky about that.
Its a towing tire, and from personal experience, yes they last long IF properly rotated, and super quiet.
They're good on gravel, road, dirt roads, and somewhat lava rock (what we have) because they dont chunk. But in ANY mud situation, they suck.
I now have Falken Wildpeak a/t. These tires are also VERY picky about rotation, and I do them every 3-4000 miles. These tires are excellent in gravel, dirt roads, lava, and decent in mud if wheelspin is kept up. The noise on highway is pretty loud for an a/t tire, but no where near as a mud. Will I buy again through my experiences? Possibly...but they didnt blow me out of the water so I may try something else....Goodyear Duratracs prolly.
Bronson = 21 yrs. old
BUILT, NOT BOUGHT - WORKED HARD FOR, NOT KISSED MOMMY/DADDYS A** FOR!
Build Thread - http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/alwayshi-build-thread-1256466/ - SOLD
Yeah, I don't know if I'm going to go A/T again. Definitely won't be getting the BF-G ATs. I think those are some of the most over-rated tires out there that have been passed up by a lot of the newer tires. Even the Hankook RF10s are beating them in traction tests for half the price. Plus I know the center tread packs up very easily with snow and mud, I've seen them driving around looking like snowy donuts.
My gut is telling me to go with the Cooper ST-Maxx (when the time comes). No question the Duratracs would be better in the snow though and the feedback I've had from a few folks (off the record) had questionable comments about the soft, tall tread feeling squirmy on the pavement.
I know! Keep my SilentArmors around for snow! They've done very well.
It's a tough decision because it's a lot of money to put down without knowing if you'll like them. Once you have a chance to really test them out, there's "no backsies!"
Snowbrd- I'm curious about why you wouldn't jut turn the claim into the insurance. The payout is small enough to not affect your premium much. I guess this is the reason I carry insurance, and it's covered my butt on a few occasions.
I know, I know, Duratracs are the go-to tire for everyone. There have been a couple choice reviews that I took to heart about sidewall strength, trail damage, and tread squirm...
Originally Posted by billzcat1
...No question the Duratracs would be better in the snow though and the feedback I've had from a few folks (off the record) had questionable comments about the soft, tall tread feeling squirmy on the pavement....
For what it's worth, I was concerned with tread squirm/a wandering tire before I bought these. I've experienced the wandering before and hated the fact that I was bouncing from the left to the right line constantly. So anyways, I was a little concerned about the DuraTracs. After I had them installed, I tried my first 'chalk test' and ended up running them at 28 psi (load range C). I haven't noticed any issues with wandering or sponginess.
I recently went on a very short off road excursion. For this trip, I was aired down to about 15-17 psi. When I left the group, I hopped on the highway (highway to me is a 55 mph striped road) and drove to the nearest town - ~10 minutes - to air back up. Even then, I didn't feel like I was wandering about. I could sure hear the tread grabbing the road though!
After that trip, I decided 28 psi was a little low and ended up pushing them all up to 31. When it's raining outside and I pull into the garage, the print on the floor still shows a flat pattern across the entire tire. Anyways, the 3 psi definitely made the tire feel more firm. It also reduced the road noise a bit (not that it was bad to start).
I will say, when I pull a very tight turn in a flat parking lot, you can hear the edge of the tire kind of scrunch down and grab the road more so than normal. I can't really 'feel' the tire scrunch, but the road + tire noise definitely tells me it is.
Moral of the story, that's what I've experienced so far in the last 3-4k of owning them. I think they are great tires - really impressed me in the little amount of snow that we had this year. Would I buy them again? Oh yeah. Am I going to buy them again? I am kind of like you - always wanting to try out a new tire to see what is better. I also don't like the reports of the soft side wall.
If I went up to a more aggressive tire, though I haven't done much research at all on this type, I'd definitely throw KM2's into the list to check out. Less aggressive tire - I have a set of 265/75R16 Silent Armors that might fall into my lap soon. I don't prefer to go to a less aggressive tire but the reviews are so good, I'd be happy with them I'm sure!
So anyways, that's my . Not really trying to persuade you one way or another. More give my current experience with the DuraTracs. Good luck! Feel free to ask if you have any more specific questions on them.
Not interested in the Nittos, thanks. I'm trying to keep my money in the USA when I can. Cooper and Goodyear are the last two American tire companies - others have factories here but the money goes overseas.
I wouldn't get KM2s, I'd get MT/R-Ks should I step up to something that's more a mud tire. I spent hours reading Cooper S/T-Maxx reviews last night and haven't found a single bad word about them. They are still a new tire though, I don't even think they've been out for a year. So far that's what I'm thinking. We'll see. I will be sacrificing some snow performance for added toughness, and I like toughness.
Like I said a dozen times already, I won't be buying for a while. I am not in dire need of tires, I still have well over half tread on my Silent Armors and have more time to mull it over. I just like shopping for tires is all.
Stuff to do:
1)Do front brake job: Hawk LTS pads + Autozone rotors
2)Make custom cargo-area net based on www.raingler.com design for 80% less, wife is helping on this one.
3)Replace cracked windshield
4)Trans service/filter flush
5)Oil change, replace crappy leaking Dorman drain plug with Mopar
6)Send off old and current oil samples for analysis, I have a sample from July 2011 that needs to go out.
7)Add CB radio - thinking Cobra 75 (with the hidden box and mic-mounted controlswith a 4' Firestik and hood-channel mount. My garage limits me to 2' antenna, if I go bigger then I need to make the CB a trail-only toy.
8)Replace TREs - thinking Moog from Rockauto
9)Replace front upper control arm bushings - axle side
10)Replace front lower control arms
11)Replace rear lower control arms
12)Clean and paint/POR-15 front and rear lower spring seats (a little rust is getting started there).
13)Investigate relocating engine air intake to cowl
14)Investigate reinforcing and widening Overland sliders for lateral protection
15)31" tires if I can afford to. Let's hope for some OT this summer!
Back to the topic of control arms, I have been eyeballing the stock-type aftermarket arms like Omix-Ada and Raybestos, etc. None of them are the same general shape as the hydroformed, fully-boxed OEM arms. They are all U-shaped stamped metal arms. I don't like that. Actual OEM arms are $80 each which tempts me to start thinking Iron Man arms again.
Also, I am either going to remove my front bump stop extensions or re-make them thinner. I went and measured where she sits now. I only have 2" of up-travel before I start hitting the bump stop and it'll probably be completely bump-stopped out at 3" of up-travel. I need to measure my shocks and see where we are for travel on the shock and determine bump stop thickness from there instead of the "add bump stop equal to your lift height" theory.
The funny thing here is that I'm lifted 2-3/4" in front and with a 2" BSE I have 2" of up-travel. Reversing the math here puts us at a scary number - stock height, stock bump stops only allows 1-1/4" uptravel before you're in the bump stops? What's up with that?
Reversing the math here puts us at a scary number - stock height, stock bump stops only allows 1-1/4" uptravel before you're in the bump stops? What's up with that?
Before I did my lift with 17 5/8 up front I only had 1" as well. I actually thought the reason to bump stop was tires hitting which made me wonder why those with 31" tires bumpstoped so much (shocks bottoming and bending makes more sense).
2000 Lmt. V8 QD, 3.25"/2"F/R, 2" BDS, Bilsteins, JKS Tr Bar, Addco Rear Sway on 31's
That list just screams the "Never Ending Jeeping Fixing Maintenance" (Yes, I know that doesn't make sense but, none the less, makes the point!)
7) Just an idea but, do they make like a quick disconnect for the antennas? Have both antennas and just pop them on and off for different uses? I know that probably wont work, tuning the radio for different antennas etc. How about a folding base?
8) Moog and Rock Auto, pretty much can not go wrong there! Are you TRE's bad or just planning ahead?
9-10-11) I was looking around at Rock Auto awhile back at the non-oem arms and was wondering what you had found out. That the construction of the arms are different then the boxed OEM arms. In my opinion, the stock CA's are pretty beef compared to the "U" shaped arms. So you are left with either new OEM's or aftermarket. Is it not possible to press new bushings into your current arms? Or is that not how they work?
12) That is on my list!
13) What do you mean by this?
I am not sure if the Bump Stop numbers are making sense to me at 3 am but it sounds like you are getting less up travel with your lift? If you don't plan on going to big on tires... get ride of the BSE's or cut them down?
7)Yes they do. Simple twist-on. The antenna should remain SWR tuned, no worries there. The tuning is done at the antenna (by shortening/lengthening its adjuster) not the radio. I also considered a HumVee style 12-15' whip from nose to tail. Decided against it. I don't think they have CB antennas long enough anyway.
8)One of my TREs on the drag link burped out its grease and my steering is not as precise as I'd like. No wobble, no clunks. I was thinking of just doing the drag link, but "while I'm in there...."
9-10-11)Yes, you can press them in and out. My best friend has a press that I've used many times and made (and donated) many custom press tools to. It's just a PITA and they appear to have certain needs for how far the bushing gets pressed in. The service manual mentions using Mopar special tool "Spacer 8279" to set the proper depth of the bushing when being pressed in on the upper axle bushing, and for the LCAs, they just say replace the whole thing. More cost/time effective.
13)Well, it's something that the TJ guys do a lot to get the air intake higher for better water fording (without a snorkel). A lot of them use tubing and various OEM filter boxes (buick, ford ranger, etc) and relocate the airbox inlet to the cowl area. I've already eyeballed it, and 3" tubing would fit "where it needs to be" to get there, I just have to figure something out with a new airbox and cut a nasty hole in the cowl/firewall area to route all the tubing and ducting. I will probably determine it's too much work and I should just stay out of the damn water holes, but it's an idea I've been kicking around for a while and I want to play with it.
Note I'm not going to hack up the HO air intake system to do this. Gotta preserve those parts.
On the bump stops, yeah it just means I might have limited up-travel too much. I need to articulate the suspension with no springs in it to determine where the bump stops really need to be when the shock is about to bottom out.
With regard to the CBs. Why not get one of those walkie talkie sets for 4x4ing. Is it a sound quality issue?
Have a set. Well, had. Either my buddy has all the radios or I lost the one he gave me. It works for a couple people, small group but doesn't give large-group communication or very good range. Granted I don't like large group wheeling and it was nice to have to be able to talk "on the down-low" without the rest of the group hearing... (hey watch the dummy in the H3!).
I think I'll do the CB and get a new set of 4 handhelds. We can pass out the handhelds to my personal friends who are getting into wheeling and aren't well-equipped (which is all of them). The Talkabouts we used before actually had better sound quality than my Midland handheld CB.
I need to get to bed. I should start working on getting my sleep cycle normalized before I go back to work on Monday!