berndog67's - 03 1-Ton Over(Any)land WJ Build Thread - JeepForum.com
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Unread 11-25-2013, 04:47 PM   #1
berndog67
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2003 WJ 
 
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: fort edward, ny
Posts: 484
berndog67's - 03 1-Ton Over(Any)land WJ Build Thread

Guess its about time i start a build thread, especially since im about to take the jeep to the next level and im sure theres some info and tips that will help someone else out, as did many of your build threads have help me so far.

Well i got my 03 Silver Overland 3 1/2 years ago now, threw an intake and exhaust on it, then within a yr i had to rebuild the motor due to it blowing a headgasket on both sides, slightly warped heads and 3 outta round valves on each head, also during the rebuild i rerouted every wire and hose under the hood to make everything cleaner and easier to work on later, after that i def had no intentions of doing anything offroading, just a daily driver that had some capability for the winters we get up here in NY, i also had no plan or idea to take it to where it is now, or where its going to end up! but i guess that jeep bug is def contagious!

So up to date so far wheeling wise it has:
  • 4" RC coils front and rear, with 2" BB spacers in the rear
  • 4" RC performance 2.2 shocks all around
  • RC long arm upgrade kit
  • Zone endlinks in rear, with RC quick disconnects up front
  • JKS adjustable track bar
  • Custom hi steer using the weld in tapered inserts
  • Custom beefed up Overland rock rails
  • Custom diff guards
  • Custom steering stabilizer setup (due to the high steer)
  • Custom hidden with mount with Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch
  • Custom hi lift mount along the roof rack
  • Cut out lower radiator support and custom built it from 3/8 thick U-channel
  • 32" Kenda Klever MT's on the stock overland rogue wheels for the street and mild trails
  • 35" Procomp MT's on JK rims for the mild to hardcore trails and for just a better look!

The setup it has now has served me well, i've been from mettowee and OFR to field and forest and many private properties and this setup surprises everyone, but our jeep club (Adirondack Jeeps) is moving towards more hardcore wheeling, and i've already broken 2 driver side axle shafts, and i've had to winch too much for my liking, and i cant see putting several grand into the stock axles to get more traction, just to only go 1 tons later on, due to the stock axles not being strong enough, plus the vari-lok axles only work sometimes with the 32's and almost never with the 35's!

So the jeep is getting this winter:
  • 1 ton axles from a 92 F350
  • 242HD or 241D Hybrid
  • HD driveshafts
  • Removing the upper A arm and converting the rear to a 4 link
  • Finish fab on front bumper and mount that up finally
  • Clock transfer case
  • Flat belly skid plate
  • Start fab on rear bumper and tire carrier
  • Move front axle forward another 1"
  • Move rear axle back another 1"
  • Finally trim rear for the 35's
  • Super tank tuck (that is what i call it, like Agitated Pancake did)
  • Inboard the rear shocks (kinda like Agitated Pancake did, so i can reuse my shocks for now)

Now the jeep is about to get 1 tons, well i have them already that is, got them outta a 92' F350, got lucky as the pics i saw online didnt really show them that well, the front turned out to be a HP dana 60, and the rear is a sterling 10.25 of course, there both open which makes it easy since they are both in great shape and within spec, another nice thing using leaf spring axles is there's less to have to cut off!

The rear axle ill be converting to a 3/4 ton chevy disc brake setup using ruffstuff brackets, and trussing it a little bit using BTF's truss tab cover and custom truss, which will make the upper mount(s) easy to fab up, prolly run a powertrax lunch box locker for now, but a selectable will end up in there eventually.

Front axle will either be spooled or lincoln locked, with manual hubs of course, prolly convert the outers to 35 spline if i can spare it, truss it a little as well with the btf truss tab cover and custom truss, eventually it will get a selectable if i go with the 242 transfer case, cuz it will make the winter driving a little better.

For transfer case im leaning towards a 241, partially because i have a spare one from my 02 hemi swapped ram, not sure if its gonna work or not, but its supposedly rated for over 5500 lbs like the 231 dodge diesel ones, the big problem with using the 242 or 241 over a 231 is that now im stuck with only getting the speed and abs signal from the rear diff, the 92 and up sterling 10.25 use the same type sensor as the wj's abs/wheel speed sensor, just need to use a dakota programmer to adjust it a little.

Only stock photo i have i think:


4" on 32's at Field & Forest:


4" on 35's at OFR



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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 11-26-2013, 01:13 PM   #2
WJChris01
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Nice looking WJ and solid plans you got for moving it forward. Subscribing for the transfer case clock, as I've not seen one done with decent documentation on a WJ.
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- 2001 WJ Laredo
4.0, d30/d35(for now) and 242
3" OME lift with JK Rubicon Moabs and 255/75/17 BFG MT's

- 1998 XJ Sport
Bone stock for now......
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Unread 11-26-2013, 06:23 PM   #3
berndog67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJChris01 View Post
Nice looking WJ and solid plans you got for moving it forward. Subscribing for the transfer case clock, as I've not seen one done with decent documentation on a WJ.
thanks, yeah ive been looking for months now and havent found anyone reliable source or pics on the tc clock, but im fairly certain it can be done, ill have to post up a pic of the rear housing on the spare 545rfe i have, i just want t flat belly plate, cuz even though the RC skid plate that comes with the long arm kit is a beefy piece, it still gets me belly hung on ledge climbs

just checked my pics for the hemi swapped ram and found one of the rear of the 545rfe and i can see why no one has clocked them, theres no material to drill on either side of any of the mounting holes, so i guess ill have to check to see how much thread engagement there is, to see if can make a clocking adapter
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 11-27-2013, 08:42 AM   #4
WJChris01
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Yeah you're right, there is not much material there. You should be able to get away with a clocking ring I would think. I have the 4.0, so I've got the stellar *coughcough* 42re. It does have plenty of material for redrill though. My concern is the already steep front driveline angle, and raising up the tcase is going to put it at an even steeper angle. I've done it on my XJ, but the AW4 looked like it was meant to be redrilled. I have a clocking ring already, so I imagine this spring I will just pull the case and see what happens.
__________________
- 2001 WJ Laredo
4.0, d30/d35(for now) and 242
3" OME lift with JK Rubicon Moabs and 255/75/17 BFG MT's

- 1998 XJ Sport
Bone stock for now......
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Unread 11-27-2013, 05:43 PM   #5
berndog67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WJChris01 View Post
Yeah you're right, there is not much material there. You should be able to get away with a clocking ring I would think. I have the 4.0, so I've got the stellar *coughcough* 42re. It does have plenty of material for redrill though. My concern is the already steep front driveline angle, and raising up the tcase is going to put it at an even steeper angle. I've done it on my XJ, but the AW4 looked like it was meant to be redrilled. I have a clocking ring already, so I imagine this spring I will just pull the case and see what happens.
i can sense your sarcasm, lol, yeah the 42's are very easy to drill for clocking, long as u dont have a cv front driveshaft u should be ok, might want to get it lengthened a little though,

found a clocking ring for $70 that has a ridiculous amount of mounting positions, so i ordered that along with most of the tabs and brackets so i can start welding on the axles, def need to get some wheels so i can roll that rear 500 pound axle around rather than have to lift it and move it one jack stand at a time!
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 12-02-2013, 06:50 AM   #6
_R700_
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Join Date: Mar 2013
Location: Perth, Australia
Posts: 9
Love the build man. I'm about to make the jump from stock to the RC 4in LA kit, so glad I saw your thread.

I'm surprised you're able to run 35's at that height... I see you've done some minor front fender trimming, but do you still get any rubbing? Hows the rear tire clearance with 35's at 4in lift, or is that why you run BB in the rear?

Also I love your winch mount. Love the clearance it provides. Did you cut out the crossmember and build a new one with the winch mount incorporated? Any close up pics or build thread on this?

Thanks :-)
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Unread 12-02-2013, 05:45 PM   #7
berndog67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by _R700_ View Post
Love the build man. I'm about to make the jump from stock to the RC 4in LA kit, so glad I saw your thread.

I'm surprised you're able to run 35's at that height... I see you've done some minor front fender trimming, but do you still get any rubbing? Hows the rear tire clearance with 35's at 4in lift, or is that why you run BB in the rear?

Also I love your winch mount. Love the clearance it provides. Did you cut out the crossmember and build a new one with the winch mount incorporated? Any close up pics or build thread on this?

Thanks :-)
you'll love the RC long arm, yes its not a clayton, but ill tell ya you wont be sorry, it out performs everyones expectations, including my own! even on 35's where the vari loks are usless its like it has lockers, due to me being able to keep all the tires on something! when im done with the one tons im going to pull the rear upper a-arm and build two upper links kinda like the clayton setup to allow me to get a ton more droop in the rear, because they built it to allow it to droop only a little more than the stock a-arm, so it will be a cheap 4 link long arm front and rear then, im thinking about getting some 1/4 walled pipe to cut in half and weld on the outside on the bottom of the lower arms to beef them up a little, even though ive smashed them off ledges a ton already with only a few scratches from it!

now i had the front at 6" as well, but was getting some nasty vibes from the front driveshaft, so i took out the front 2" spacer and left the rear spacers in, i didnt want to pay to lengthen the front driveshaft since im doing the one tons this winter

the front i cut a ton out, and im still going to have to cut more out after the front axle goes foward another inch, and i only rolled the lip a little in the rear and moved the rear axle back a little to get the 35's to stuff without bumpstops, course im also running 2" wheel spacers, which keeps the 35's from rubbing the shocks and coil spring mounts, but i will be cutting the rear like most of the guys that run 35's or 37's when im mocking up the rear axle under the jeep

ill have to get some closeups of the winch mount setup, cuz i didnt take any while building it (due to the fact that i built it around midnight the night before i left for Field and Forest for 2 days and nights of wheelin!) its basically a universal winch mount from summit racing that i bolted to the top of the frame horns, i did cut out the whole cross member between the frame rails to make it clear, i left an inch or so at each end though, so i could bend it in and weld it flat, to keep the rigidity of the frame horns, it was def more of a temporary thing, but its held up just fine, i plan on plating the inside of the frame like i already did to the bottom and bolt it in to that, cuz i dont like how thin the frame horns are on the top side
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 12-02-2013, 07:22 PM   #8
CRJEeP_wj
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Smoked headlights on a silver wj looks really good. 1 tons on a wj, even better. Do you still plan on running 35s on the 10 1/4? Do you plan to narrow the axles or keep them stock width?
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02 grand cherokee, hp60 14b, 42s. Stazwork, triangulated 4-link, rear leafs, homemade bumpers and sliders. build thread [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/creep-wj-tons-build-1505917/[/url]
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Unread 12-03-2013, 05:01 PM   #9
berndog67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CRJEeP_wj View Post
Smoked headlights on a silver wj looks really good. 1 tons on a wj, even better. Do you still plan on running 35s on the 10 1/4? Do you plan to narrow the axles or keep them stock width?
yeah the smoke look has grown on me, once i finish the front bumper it will def look better yet, for wheelin ill still be running the 35's, in the future i might grab some 37's from a fellow club member when they jump up a size, but for now just 35's for trail and 32's for the daily driving, and as for the axles ill def be running full width, i think i would be crucified by my jeep club members if i narrowed them! need to figure out a wheel backspace that might help me not loose too much uptravel, cuz right now im running no bump stops with 35's and have pretty good articulation, i know ill be gaining a ton more droop with the longer shocks and making rear upper arms, so im hoping to keep the same amount of flex or maybe more!

ive read thru your build at least twice i think, awesome jeep! ive thought about doing some front half doors kinda like yours, any tips, tricks or things u would have done differently?
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 12-04-2013, 12:02 AM   #10
CRJEeP_wj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by berndog67 View Post
yeah the smoke look has grown on me, once i finish the front bumper it will def look better yet, for wheelin ill still be running the 35's, in the future i might grab some 37's from a fellow club member when they jump up a size, but for now just 35's for trail and 32's for the daily driving, and as for the axles ill def be running full width, i think i would be crucified by my jeep club members if i narrowed them! need to figure out a wheel backspace that might help me not loose too much uptravel, cuz right now im running no bump stops with 35's and have pretty good articulation, i know ill be gaining a ton more droop with the longer shocks and making rear upper arms, so im hoping to keep the same amount of flex or maybe more!

ive read thru your build at least twice i think, awesome jeep! ive thought about doing some front half doors kinda like yours, any tips, tricks or things u would have done differently?

Full width has its advantages but also its disadvantages. I found that my width makes me less maneuverable in narrow spots but more stable. We have came to squeeze rocks that i have to crawl over were everybody else goes through. But sometime my tires keep me from body damage, so thats good. If i did that part again the only thing i would change is from a 2" bs wheel to a 4 or 5" back space. Probably 4. I would probably go with at least 37s on tons though. My 14bolt has a bigger diff than the 10 1/4 but even with 42s it seems to attract rocks like a magnet.
The half doors were fun but much more time consuming than i thought they would be. The only advice on those is to make sure you drill all the pin holes the same size and get snug fitting pins or they will be hard to line up. I still haunt finished them, my durango handles didn't work how i planned and I've been to busy with other projects so they will have to wait till spring time probably.

Keep up the good work, I will be keeping watch on this for sure.
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02 grand cherokee, hp60 14b, 42s. Stazwork, triangulated 4-link, rear leafs, homemade bumpers and sliders. build thread [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/creep-wj-tons-build-1505917/[/url]
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:43 PM   #11
berndog67
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well i guess its time i update this thing, if started off slow with the holidays and trying to get two family cars inspected! but my last two days off i did the tank tuck (gained 7" of ground clearance) and started trimming the rear for 37"s!! for $400 i picked up a set of hummer military oz tires on wagon wheels for now! once i finish the sheet metal floor covering the tank tuck (with access panel) and finish the rear trimming for tires, ill start working on the rear axle, since it should be the easiest!
imag0106_zps268ba518.jpg   imag0109_zps54e20b9c.jpg   imag0112_zpsd4bb8d1c.jpg   imag0120_zps7f96cda5.jpg   imag0119_zps67f8b906.jpg  

imag0122_zps8d487107.jpg  
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 01-21-2014, 01:45 PM   #12
berndog67
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oh and for anyone wondering, u can get 4 almost brand new 37's on rims and fully inflated in a wj!! just do two rows of them at angles, sorry for the crappy cell pic, it was at night when i got back and my phone just would not focus right, oh and also make sure your seat isnt broken inside like mine was! they pushed my seat to the left a little and my headrest was off center by 3 inches or so! gotta take that seat apart and weld all the cracks its has like someone on this forum did, just another thing i gotta do to the jeep!
imag0095_zps7166a4c0.jpg  
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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 02-26-2014, 09:43 PM   #13
BamaJeepman21
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Just going to bump this here...how well did those 35's work with the 4" lift? Any pics of it flat with them on?
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Unread 02-28-2014, 05:37 PM   #14
berndog67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BamaJeepman21 View Post
Just going to bump this here...how well did those 35's work with the 4" lift? Any pics of it flat with them on?
Yeah it worked very well. The vari-loks didnt really like them at all. Lucky if they worked half the time. But with the long arms it kept them planted pretty well. I've since sold the 35's and got some H1 take offs. I actually started mocking up the back end the other night and got some pics. Looked awesome! Better yet ill have 30" of ground clearance in the back from the 37's and the tank tuck.
imag0058_zpsf7894ac0.jpg   imag0062_zpsc03b7e3b.jpg   imag0064_zps413e0548.jpg   imag0188_zps23a08c17.jpg   imag0181_zpsbbab989e.jpg  

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2003 WJ Overland, 4.7HO, D30 & D44A (1 tons going in now!), RC Long Arm, lifted 4" Front 6" Rear, RC 2.2 4" Shocks, JKS track bar, custom hi-steer, 35" Procomp M/T's on JK rims, beefed up Overland rock rails, custom skids and dif gaurds, Rugged Ridge 8500 synthetic winch in custom hidden mount
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Unread 11-10-2014, 11:41 PM   #15
wjeff26
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Any problems out of your 2 inch spacers? Debating on new rims with 4 inch bs or spacers for my 17s ...
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