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Go Back JeepForum.com > Models > Jeep Grand Cherokee & Commander Forums > Grand Cherokee General Discussion > BC4Lyphe's Build Thread

ANOTHER Rockridge4wd Creation!! Spare Tire Carrier Delete The Original 3/8" Ruffstuff Diff Cover!Even Better Heim Pricing! From Ruffstuff

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Unread 02-02-2014, 09:11 AM   #1
BC4Lyphe
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: , Maine
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BC4Lyphe's Build Thread

Hi everyone I've been searching for a Jeep for a few weeks now and I've used this site a lot to study up on them as Ive never had one. The Ultimate WJ Buyers Guide was great. Anyways I'm picking up my Jeep tomorrow and had a few questions.

I wanted a V8 Selec Trac but the only one I found sold before I could get to it. I've got the 4.0 and I think the PO said he replaced the stock (242?) transfer case with one out of a Rubicon? (231?) I forgot what model he said it was from but he said the slight (~2.5"?) lift caused the previous front drive shaft to break so he replaced that and the new transfer case allowed for greater angles on the front drive shaft.

Theres a WJ Overland at the junkyard right now. Can I take either the diff or the whole axle off the Overland and put it on my Jeep? Seems to me that'd be the best stock 4x4 setup. Selec Trac with Varilok. What a good price for a diff or complete axle?

My jeep has power leather seats but they arent heated. What would I need to get from the jeep at the junkyard? I've done it on other cars and its basically just running wire and plug and play, same deal here?

Once I get the rig I'll be able to update my sig with more info on tranny, transfer case, lift, and other stuff but I figured I'd just start asking stuff now and add on later. Thanks a lot

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99 Black WJ Laredo, 4.0, 242WJ, D35 rear, Rusty's 2.5" lift, BFG T/A
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Unread 02-04-2014, 06:03 PM   #2
BC4Lyphe
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Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: , Maine
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So I picked up the Jeep. The only code it's showing is P0783 which I guess is a 3/4 shift issue code. The 4x4/trans shift area light is flickering. I believe I can make it flicker when I wiggle the trans shifter so I think it's simply a loose connection. I believe I read on here somewhere a possible P0783 cause is loose connection. Anyone have any experience with this?

I dont have time to get it registered and all that for a few days so I'm buying a bunch of PM stuff. I just like to go thru everything when I get a new vehicle so I know whats new and has been changed. I have a tentative schedule written up so I dont forget something while I'm working near it...eh hmm *RMS* Does this sound about right?

Clear codes
Run seafoam thru intake via brake booster vacuum line.
Run seafoam thru crankcase via oil filler
Remove valve cover, check for loose rocker/pushrod/lifter? (hydro?)
Remove belly pan, check piston skirts
Vacuum oily poop out of oily places
-?Spray everything with brake cleaner? Get it nice and clean?-
Replace rear main seal (single/double lip?)
Replace valve cover + gasket, oil pan + gasket (Rubber)
Replace oil (Rotella 15-40 diesel & filter (Motorcraft FL-1A or FL-400S?)
If loose rocker/piston skirt, order new. Run car till next oil change and replace part
(Clear codes)

Drop trans pan, replace filter/fluid---Check possible valve bodies? (P0783)
(Clear codes)

Check/change transfer case fluid, f&r diff fluid
Seal up with (RED) RTV, (DIFF) RTV----Gaskets?
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99 Black WJ Laredo, 4.0, 242WJ, D35 rear, Rusty's 2.5" lift, BFG T/A
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Unread 02-05-2014, 01:35 AM   #3
Krooser
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No need to "check" for broken piston skirts… if you have one it will be in the bottom of the pan or rattling around…you'll hear it.

Be careful when cleaning the top end… you don't want any debris falling into the oil return passages.

Don't mess with the rear main seal unless it's leaking… let sleeping dogs lie.

Just my humble opinion...
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Unread 02-05-2014, 12:48 PM   #4
BC4Lyphe
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Thanks for the info. I think it is leaking. I crawled under there lastnight and saw the trans had a layer of gunk on it and followed it up to where I think the RMS is. Just to be sure I'll have another look in the daylight before I rip things apart.

Another question: I have a 99. It has the 3 coil packs. I keep reading the DIS=2000 or newer and requires the platinum APP985 plugs. Well AutoZone gave me the copper "OE" AP985s. Should I return them?
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Unread 02-06-2014, 12:14 AM   #5
grussell
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No, keep the copper plugs. The valve cover leaks around the back. I would say go to the car wash and clean the engine bay real good and then see where the leaks are over the next few days.
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Unread 02-06-2014, 01:46 AM   #6
Cirruslydakota
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"Remove belly pan, check piston skirts"

Dont worry, when you have one (or two! 3 and 4 were cheating on 1, 2, 5, and 6 on mine.) that decides to divorce itself from the piston crown, you'll know.

Usually its not the RMS causing that mess at the rear, but rather the valve cover gasket.
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Bear - 1999 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo - 250,000 Miles, BDS 2" lift, Overland rock rails, Dynomax cat back exhaust, 245/75/16 Kumho KL78's, Rebuilt 4.0 @ 244,000 miles.
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Unread 02-07-2014, 11:43 PM   #7
BC4Lyphe
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So I brought the truck to a local school to see how much it'd cost for them to do it. They wouldnt do it. The teacher did come out and listen to the rig and he said it was in the lower end and when it blew up to give him a call cause he wanted to buy it and swap in his motor. Thanks bud... Then I brought it to a mechanic and he had a listen and said it was top end, maybe a broken valve spring or rocker. That was good news. So I began by taking the valve cover off. Everything looked pretty good which I wasnt happy about. I had a tough time getting the valve cover off. The wiring harness around the back that carries the fuel injectors, etc was fairly tight. Also I had trouble getting the ground stud out. I ended up using an 11mm ignition wrench with the 90* jaws.

So then began the fun part. The part I was hoping would never come. Dropping the belly pan to see the destruction. That took forever. I have a 2.5" lift and had to jack the truck up roughly 3 more inches to get the oil pan out. Took forever.

So tomorrow I'm going to Napa to get the parts. I'm wondering if I should get 1 or 6 pistons? Are there any certain years or brand pistons I should get? I heard they changed where the rings sit on the piston? What brand headgasket should I get? Also I'm wondering if the wrist pins are held in with simple circle clips that I can swap over myself? While I'm in there should I get new con rod bearings? Also can I reuse the head bolts?

I've never really been inside an engine. The deepest I've went was a headgasket job on a T100. Any help would be great. Thanks
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99 Black WJ Laredo, 4.0, 242WJ, D35 rear, Rusty's 2.5" lift, BFG T/A

Last edited by BC4Lyphe; 02-08-2014 at 11:32 AM..
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Unread 02-08-2014, 08:56 AM   #8
Jer-Bear
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Why on earth would you run 15w-40? Like you said, its DIESEL oil... Use 10w-30 like the owners manual says, otherwise you could hurt the engine because the oil is too thick to properly protect the engine. That's just my humble opinion...
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:20 AM   #9
Thomahawk
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^^^I know, but my friends 4.0 in his ZJ, also runs smoother with 15W-40, idk why, but i guess an older engine is a bit worn and that the thicker oil add up for bigger clearence inside engine.
Its strange but my friends 4.0 screams for 15W-40.
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95 ZJ Limited 5.2 Winter Project
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R.I.P. 2000 Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7 V8, Quadradrive, Shale Green Metallic, Agate/Carbon interior, Well modded and highly missed :(

Buildthread [url]http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f197/jeep-norway-2th-buildt-overland-upgrade-1813490/[/url]

MONEY WILL CONTINUE TO BE THROWN INTO THE RIG UNTIL CONDITION AND SATISFACTION IMPROVES!!!
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Unread 02-08-2014, 09:24 AM   #10
palric
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jer-Bear View Post
Why on earth would you run 15w-40? Like you said, its DIESEL oil... Use 10w-30 like the owners manual says, otherwise you could hurt the engine because the oil is too thick to properly protect the engine. That's just my humble opinion...

I agree on the 15-40, wrong range for these engines. Might be short term fix for a noisy engine but makes for unnecessary wear on cold starts. Rotella makes a solid 10-30. But this has been done to death on other threads.

Best of luck with your Jeep I find they are fun to work on
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Unread 04-01-2014, 06:40 PM   #11
BC4Lyphe
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Well its been awhile. Turns out piston #2 wasnt playing as a team. Like I said, a mechanic took a listen thru a screwdriver and said it was top end. He said the bottom end was quiet. So for someone reading this it may help diagnose a noisy motor. Shipping was a nightmare but actually tearing the motor down and replacing parts was pretty easy and straight forward. I noticed my big end bearings werent stock. The lower one in the cap was 1 undersized. I just replaced both with STD sized new ones and called it a day. Also I didnt have to gap the rings. They were in spec right out of the box. Runs great so I'm not worrying about it. The connecting rod and cap are stamped so you cant get them flip flopped. Also I had a local CarQuest punch the wrist pins in and out for me. I think it took them an hour and $30. I ran Rotella T 15w40 thru it for the first 500 miles. Ive put about 3500 miles on it since the rebuild and am using Rotella T6 5w30. Runs great. Doesnt burn anything except lots of gas. I'll get about 16mpg in a good week...
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Unread 11-20-2014, 02:46 AM   #12
BC4Lyphe
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Feels like its been longer than 7 months since I updated this thing. Heres a quick recap of the past few months. If anyone has questions about something I can elaborate more. Also I plan on keeping this a little more up to date for the future.

While waiting for motor parts I changed all the fluids. Front diff looked clean. Transmission smelled slightly burned but not too bad, good color. The transfer case looked good. The rear diff was pretty sludgey. What a stupidly designed diff cover! I also put the Bilstein 5100 shocks on. Theyre awesome. I got em at a great price from Kolak, he's the man! If you're thinking about the upgrade, do it, theyre worth it. I replaced my front rotors and slider pins and noticed the PO did the Akebono upgrade already which was a nice little bonus.



A few weeks after I rebuilt the motor I got the WJ stuck in a large puddle. Water was up to the front speaker grills.



Apparently the transmission has a hole cast into it behind the TC for breathing purposes. Well that nice muddy water went in there and the trans started slipping pretty bad. There's a major electrical connector in the passenger kick panel that I took apart and let it air out. I flushed out the trans fluid a couple times by disconnecting the cooler lines and pumping new stuff thru. If any of you guys run into this problem I believe it would be way easier and cheaper to just bring it to Oriellys or whatever youve got and have them flush it. I ended up spending a ton on trans fluid and it took forever. Hindsight: bring it to a shop with a flushing machine.



The day after I flushed it I drove ~5600 miles. That was nerve wracking...



Since I got to Alaska I really haven't done much with it. When I got here I changed the oil with Rotella T6 and a Wix filter.



Recently I've begun doing some upgrading. I got some halo/projector headlights which are a huge improvement over my stock housings. The stock ones weren't faded or anything but for some reason they just never seemed to be very bright. I equated my high beams to what a normal low beam should look like. I was looking into getting some Daylighters or an LED lightbar but these new projectors are bright enough for now.



I picked up a Warn 8274 for a great price and have just about finished the rebuild on it. I'm waiting for some parts in the mail.



Today I got some metal and began figuring out a winch bumper for it. I have a general idea of what I want it to look like. I think I'm going to build a "core" that the winch mounts to and then fab up a light weight 1/8" steel "skin" around that. I think I want the skin to bolt to the core so I can get at the winch somewhat easy without having to remove the 100 pound bruiser.

I picked up 3/8x3" angle iron and some 1/4 flat bar for the core. I was looking at the frame mount location and figuring out which way to mount the angle iron and how to make a backing plate. I need to machine out the opening for the fairlead and the mounting holes for the winch but hopefully I can get the "core" finished tomorrow if the weather isn't too bad. I'm waiting on some Bushwackers to figure out the "skin" but I'm going to base my bumper off of this one. What do you guys think?

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99 Black WJ Laredo, 4.0, 242WJ, D35 rear, Rusty's 2.5" lift, BFG T/A

Last edited by BC4Lyphe; 11-20-2014 at 03:22 AM..
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Unread 11-20-2014, 08:37 AM   #13
TheBoogieman
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Great idea.
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Unread 11-20-2014, 09:22 AM   #14
ChrisHager
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Since this is kind of turning into a build thread, I'm going to move it over to GC General Discussion. I can rename your thread if you'd like...
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Unread 11-20-2014, 10:21 PM   #15
BC4Lyphe
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Location: , Maine
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oh ok thanks a lot
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99 Black WJ Laredo, 4.0, 242WJ, D35 rear, Rusty's 2.5" lift, BFG T/A
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