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post #856 of 1481 Old 07-03-2011, 04:39 PM
GraKee99
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Go to a local fab shop with a torchmate. They will able to cut out any shape you need. I'm sure there is someone around you that would be happy to make brackets to work perfectly. That is the route I would go. Then you have something different but designed exactly how you need them to be.


Brian

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post #857 of 1481 Old 07-03-2011, 05:06 PM
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Saturnicl can make the brackets for you since he has done the swap before he maybe able to make exactly what you want.


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post #858 of 1481 Old 07-03-2011, 06:34 PM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GraKee99 View Post
Go to a local fab shop with a torchmate. They will able to cut out any shape you need. I'm sure there is someone around you that would be happy to make brackets to work perfectly. That is the route I would go. Then you have something different but designed exactly how you need them to be.
I've gave that some thought. I'll have to look around. The thought of just handing the axles and WJ over to BTF has crossed my mind since they are 1.5 hours away. Labor charges might be the deal breaker though.

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Saturnicl can make the brackets for you since he has done the swap before he maybe able to make exactly what you want.
Haven't thought about that. I've been reading over his build a lot here lately. I might hit him up on Facebook soon.

Daniel

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post #859 of 1481 Old 07-03-2011, 07:44 PM
GraKee99
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Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
I've gave that some thought. I'll have to look around. The thought of just handing the axles and WJ over to BTF has crossed my mind since they are 1.5 hours away. Labor charges might be the deal breaker though.
Making the brackets shouldn't kill the bank. It will be the welding up of everything that does that.

Brian

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post #860 of 1481 Old 07-05-2011, 05:20 PM Thread Starter
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Found a late model HP60 build thread over on Pirate. I may end up doing this and going with those ballistic combo brackets. Then I'll have a pro welder around here weld the tubes up and make a truss to keep the strength.

http://pirate4x4.com/forum/showthrea...hlight=dana+60

Sick welds on that sucker.

Daniel

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post #861 of 1481 Old 07-05-2011, 07:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
And I was thinking about unibody stiffening earlier. I planning on talking to Greg about some fish plates. Would be perfect for his Torchmate! Definitely thinking about putting some plate in the front where the springs are. Maybe Greg can enlighten the subject with a small amount of tech on this.
Build's lookin great man!

As for the stiffening, that's definately something we can start talking about . In all honesty, my unibody hasn't been reinforced beyond the claytons subframe and has survived so far. That doesn't mean I don't advocate all the reinforcement you can handle though haha, I just haven't gotten around to it on my own . I might have to start cutting some cardboard to see what I can come up with for some reinforcements. I want to go from my claytons to the front spring mount, and possibly the bumper area, then from claytons to the rear spring and possibly the rear bumper. Though my cage build will also help reinforce when I get to that

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post #862 of 1481 Old 07-05-2011, 07:58 PM
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Whoa dude, your dub is onna be sick now!
congrats!

David.


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post #863 of 1481 Old 07-05-2011, 08:31 PM Thread Starter
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Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake View Post
Build's lookin great man!

As for the stiffening, that's definately something we can start talking about . In all honesty, my unibody hasn't been reinforced beyond the claytons subframe and has survived so far. That doesn't mean I don't advocate all the reinforcement you can handle though haha, I just haven't gotten around to it on my own . I might have to start cutting some cardboard to see what I can come up with for some reinforcements. I want to go from my claytons to the front spring mount, and possibly the bumper area, then from claytons to the rear spring and possibly the rear bumper. Though my cage build will also help reinforce when I get to that
Thanks!

Sounds good man. I'll probably be hitting you up on Facebook soon then!

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Whoa dude, your dub is onna be sick now!
congrats!
Appreciate it man. I'm looking forward to having it "done"!

Daniel

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post #864 of 1481 Old 07-05-2011, 09:31 PM
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Looking good Dan! maybe you can have it built by xmas. and come down to Gray Rock and show them fools what a WJ can do!

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post #865 of 1481 Old 07-06-2011, 04:50 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks Jason. I'm hoping it's finished by the fall. But I'd be down for a trip to Grey Rock for sure to test it out!

Daniel

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post #866 of 1481 Old 07-07-2011, 06:55 PM Thread Starter
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Another thing I've been thinking about is the steering situation for the D60. I'd love to put a high steer on it, but I think it would be TO high and cause problems during suspension compression. I could keep the knuckles stock and put a simple cross over steering kit on it like this one from Ballistic Fab:

http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...rs_p_1335.html

Here are those high steer arms:

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=890475

Thoughts?

Daniel

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post #867 of 1481 Old 07-07-2011, 07:05 PM
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Well, this whole time I thought I was going to be using Clayton's stuff for the axle brackets. Not anymore. In my research today I have found out that late model D60s have a 3.5" tube diameter instead of 3.125" found on earlier models. The S10.5 also has an axle tube diameter of 3.5". I also looked at T&T trusses, but they either don't have the right axle tube diameter or it wouldn't fit a WJ.

Was thinking about picking these up for the rear...

Truss/4-Link/Cover: http://www.bluetorchfab.com/Product/...ss-System.aspx

Coil Mounts: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...s-_p_1179.html

Control Arm Mounts: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...ts_p_1397.html

Shock Mounts: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bs_p_1720.html

And for the front...

Combo Coil/Shock/Control Arm Mount: http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...bo_p_1461.html

Track Bar Mount (don't what separation though): http://www.ballisticfabrication.com/...nt_p_1629.html

So, there are couple things I don't know about. First, what kind of angle are the control arm mounts at? They the same front and rear? Is it not good if they're not angled/perpendicular to the axle surface? Second, I don't know what I'm going to do for the radius arm mounts on the front axle. Didn't really see anything for bushing type links. Still have to worry about a truss system over the 60, as well.

Any suggestions/help would be awesome.
imusing the same brackets on my rear 9in as you mentioned above. As far as the angle of control arms if you look at the clayton kit the arm basically perpindicular to the ground. I set my at -10 degrees i think i can verify tommmorrow.

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post #868 of 1481 Old 07-07-2011, 07:15 PM Thread Starter
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imusing the same brackets on my rear 9in as you mentioned above. As far as the angle of control arms if you look at the clayton kit the arm basically perpindicular to the ground. I set my at -10 degrees i think i can verify tommmorrow.
That'd be cool man. I was kind of leaning towards 10 degrees, but figured I'd ask anyway.

Sucks to hear about your Jeep though. However, you did give me an idea for a parking brake. I wouldn't have thought about a line lock!

Daniel

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post #869 of 1481 Old 07-07-2011, 11:57 PM
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Honestly, I really like how my steering came out and would do it again in a heartbeat. I have a high steer arm for the drag link to land on, but the tie rod lands on top of the factory knuckles (I reamed them out from the top for the 1 ton ends). Having the tie rod down low gives you all the space you need to make a very nice, long matching drag link and track bar.


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post #870 of 1481 Old 07-08-2011, 10:45 AM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AgitatedPancake View Post
Honestly, I really like how my steering came out and would do it again in a heartbeat. I have a high steer arm for the drag link to land on, but the tie rod lands on top of the factory knuckles (I reamed them out from the top for the 1 ton ends). Having the tie rod down low gives you all the space you need to make a very nice, long matching drag link and track bar.
Haven't thought about doing just one side high steer for the drag link. I might look into doing that and flipping the tie rod.

Daniel

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