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post #211 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 07:39 AM
GraKee99
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I am in the same situation Daniel so I know what you are going through. Decisions, decisions.


Brian

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post #212 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 08:25 AM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Yea, its tough. I also thought I could make a 3 link setup up front instead of the standard radius arm like most LA kits have. You can configure that TnT truss to whatever you want, so it eliminates a lot of the guess work. Its just those damn tone rings. Could you use 30 outers from a XJ or something?

Daniel
1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

Current Stable: 2001 WJ, 2006 WK, 2006 TJ
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post #213 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 08:34 AM
GraKee99
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Ya, I'm pretty sure you can if you get custom inner shafts made. Something like that.

Brian

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post #214 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 09:11 AM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Yea, that's what I'm looking into now. I'm trying to find some measurements, but I'm not having much luck.

Edit: Found some measurements for some D30 inners over on Mallcrawlin.

http://www.mallcrawlin.com/forum/showthread.php?t=9323

Daniel
1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

Current Stable: 2001 WJ, 2006 WK, 2006 TJ

Last edited by Bama_WJ; 04-29-2010 at 09:36 AM.
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post #215 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 09:40 AM
StrokedWJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
Yea, that's what I'm looking into now. I'm trying to find some measurements, but I'm not having much luck.

Edit: Found some measurements for some D30 inners over on Mallcrawlin.

u joint conversion on WJ - MallCrawlin.com Forums
Thats the route I took for my D30. I used that thread for most of the info. Let me know if you have any questions about it and I'll try to help.

2000 WJ 4.5L - Stroked, Locked, & Long-Armed
Looking for 6" WJ springs!
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post #216 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 02:43 PM
RedZJ
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Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post


I think I have a mild case of Shinobi Arm.
Just wait till you find the right rock and youll have a mild case of no arm.

Also you need to debadge the trail rated badges.
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post #217 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 03:04 PM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Just wait till you find the right rock and youll have a mild case of no arm.

Also you need to debadge the trail rated badges.
Can't hate, they're legit.

But thanks again for the 6 month upgrade man. I owe you one.

Daniel
1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

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post #218 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 03:10 PM
RedZJ
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Can't hate, they're legit.

But thanks again for the 6 month upgrade man. I owe you one.
Just as legit as my wiring for my PA speaker. Ill have to take pictures of that and show you. You'll laugh.

Dont have to pay me back. Just pass it on to someone else.
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post #219 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 09:02 PM
StrokedWJ
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Theres a set of the IRO u-joint shafts for sale in the classified section by Mtn WJ...thought you might be interested.

2000 WJ 4.5L - Stroked, Locked, & Long-Armed
Looking for 6" WJ springs!
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post #220 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 09:04 PM
GraKee99
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Contact him on mallcrawlin though, he has them cheaper on there.

Brian

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post #221 of 1481 Old 04-29-2010, 09:51 PM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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Thanks. Would be nice to pick them up, but I have no cash. I'm basically just having an e-brainstorm right now. I reckon I'll just beef the 30 up and run the 35s. Weld the tubes, maybe get a truss, some nice shafts and call it good. I don't plan on running bigger than 35s...well, at least for right now.

Daniel
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post #222 of 1481 Old 05-12-2010, 03:02 PM Thread Starter
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Figured I would post up some really good news, at least to me. I'M EMPLOYED. I start on Monday. I'm thinking I'll be making around $800 a week. I'm pretty excited.

Start looking for some nice updates in about a month.

Daniel
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post #223 of 1481 Old 05-12-2010, 03:22 PM
lakailimited06
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just read the last few pages, nice neat job on the tank lift...alot neater than mine...i do am deciding on what to do with my 30 i think that is my next problem..i have the aussie up front, never broke a shaft yet but i think 33's is going to be pushing it...i think it mostly depends on the amount of torque on the shafts during a sharp turn...i know two guys running 285/75's with steels wheels who havent had problems locked upfront with stock shafts...

ill most likely get the inners made from dutchmans and have a guy at work get my tone rings to fit an XJ or TJ outers...this will allow the outers/u joints to be the weakpoint i feel rather than getting chromo outers as well making the ring/pinion the weakpoint....

curious to see what you end up doing..oh id say def go with the 4.88s for 35's...

99WJ 4.0
IRO 3", SYE, D30 aussie/8.8 aussie, 4.10s, 33's, skids/bumpers
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post #224 of 1481 Old 05-12-2010, 06:47 PM
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looking good bama. as to the d30 and what to do, i am guessing youve checked shinobi and 311's threads. i pm'ed them a few weeks back because the d30 on mine is my chief concern. im looking at the Clayton 6" LA and want to go with 35"s from the start, once i start piecing it together later this summer. that automatically makes me scratch my head about longevity, but they both told me they (and others they have talked to) havent had any issue yet with that setup and the axle. at this point im aiming to go LA and the 35s and cross my fingers it holds, until a bit later i throw a 44 up front. the d30 will always be weak link i think of the wj when the owner is aiming to go past 4" and 33's

anyways looking good and following along for the ride
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post #225 of 1481 Old 05-13-2010, 12:38 AM Thread Starter
Bama_WJ
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I think at this point I'm going to just run the 30. I might weld the tubes up and truss it when I long arm it.

My main thing right now is getting F/R bumpers then a BTF cover and chromos for the 44a. After those things I don't really know whats going on. Might get my 4.88 gears/install kits, wheels, Clayton LAs on lay-a-way, or just start putting money in the bank. Time will only tell.

The Clayton LAs on lay-a-way doesn't sound like a bad idea. Hmm...

Daniel
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