The new lowers setup allows alot more uptravel...almost full stuff:
Nice tight tolerances!
Here's the newly modified RE track bar with a weld-in spherical at the frame side (don't know what brand?), and the RE adjustable joint at the axle side. It fits around a diff cover nicely, but looks very close to oil pan in this pic. I'll be making sure that the axle is stopped before that point. Everything is close to touching frame rails at this point also so it's not like it's the only limiting factor. You can also see the welds on the truss to the tubes and to the cast. Should be rock solid.
The issue with the track bar bracket on the drivers side. I've got a pretty sweet plan to solve it. I cut the track bar mount off at the welds just now, I'm going to turn it around 180* to push the mount forward 2-3". It'll look nice and clean too.
And this shot is from directly under the axle tube, and shows why I had to inboard the lower link mounts. VERY close to the frame rail, and the outside edge of the crossmember brackets. It didn't clear either properly before I inboarded them.
Thanks man. I took it to the next level today, reworked things once again for more travel.
Here are the newest pics, MUCH better uptravel now, and I turned the track bar around .
I'm going to be shortening the frame side track bar bracket wether it be by cutting it off again or redrilling up higher, that will allow me to cut some of it off and shift the track bar up a little so the cover will clear nicely. In the pic you can see, the axle track bar bracket bottoms out on the frame rail at the same time the truss hits the oil pan. Looks like we have ourselves a stopping point! This point is roughly 5 1/2" from ride height. Great compression!
You can see here I have the track bar bracket forward enough now, semi close to the pitman arm. The high steer will make it close but I've figured out the best solution. Just extend the radius arms a little, push the front axle forward. I need to anyways, solves many issues, and makes the track bar bracket PERFECT!
Pulled out the outers and started cleanup. The only way I'll know if the steering fits is to do it for reals. I wire wheeled the knuckles, nice polished steel now. Gotta clean up the hubs, spindles and rotors too, then throw some paint on em. I'll be doing a few mock assemblies with the knuckles, and have to personally drill the holes in the steering arms so lots of measuring to do!
dude, get a few boxes of good particulate masks. you don't want rust in your lungs. and make sure you're wearing goggles or a full face mask while wire wheeling or grinding, safety glasses don't always cut it.
nothing like being denied an mri because of metal in your eyes.
'97 zj 5.2, some stuff, some other suff, and some things that even work sometimes.
metal in the eye sucks.... i agree mask and goggles lol
1996 ZJ- 4.0, [COLOR="Purple"]AX-15 5SPD/NP242[/COLOR], RE 4.5" lift, 36x12.50x16.5 Goodyear military surplus tires, Longarms/Tri-4 link/one ton axle build/swap in progress, arb bumper, a bunch of other goodies
1995 XJ- 4.0 HO, ax-15(stolen for swap), stock
2001 GMC Sonoma-RIP...
2002 GMC Sierra 1500 ECSB-roadtrip/long haul vehicle
[CENTER][COLOR="Blue"]RIP Troy (bigbluezj94) you wont be forgotten[/COLOR]
[COLOR="Purple"]December 2010 GCOTM[/COLOR]
5spd ZJ Club Member 001
[QUOTE=bddisi;6376248]Glad you are ok. If you were a cat, you would be down to 8.:D[/QUOTE]
I wear a full facemask any time I'm using the angle grinder except a flap disc, that just gets normal safety glasses unless I can't aim the sparks anywhere but my face. The grinding stones and wire wheels eject way too much solid material for comfort otherwise! Multiple times yester day I had to stop to pull peices of wire out of my shirt and gloves that had stuck themselves. Even have em stick in my skin most times lol.
I agree about the respirator, I just didn't have one around and didn't want to stop doing that **** long enough to go out and buy one, so hard to get motivated to get started doing cleanup like that again lol!
how are you doing work in this freezing weather?
maybe its a little warmer down there in sac, but up in the sierras its 28-34 degrees.
everything looks amazing, as always.
i will probably ask for your help when i swap my axles in.
99 WJ hp44, 3 link, Eaton e locker, 14" foa coilovers in the front. 14 bolt, 4 link, grizzly locker, 12" foa coilovers in the rear. 5.38s and 37s
Mark, I won't like it's been COLD for my standards, out in the garage at about 45* and I don't have a long sleeve that I wanted to get REALLY dirty, so I was just doubling up on tshirts with pants on and calling it good. Halogen worklights put off some decent heat though hehe . I'm down for the axle swap once I get things in order after Andys build!
That's a good question Andy, quite a decent amount haha. I'll have to get the tires up and mounted to see for sure though!
Here's the tinkering I've been doing:
Knuckles mocked up with high steer arms, and the tie rod zip tied to the bottom of the arms. Looks like it's going to have to mount to the bottom to clear the oil pan at full compression, and I'm going to need to get a pitman arm with less drop than your current one, to make the drag link work with the tie rod, and make the pitman height match the new cut down track bar bracket. I've seen a few junkyard varieties that look pretty interesting so I'll have to check em out.
At full stuff, the track bar clears the diff cover by about 3/8", and when you steer to full lock the tie rod clears both track bar mounts by about 1/4". The final fit remodified track bar w/bracket clears the oil pan by about 3/4" at full bump, when the top of the truss just about hits the oil pan. These clearances are going to be TIGHT, as tight as they can without moving the steering box forwards. I've taken a ton of time to set everything to clear at max uptravel, WITH high steer. Hell of a task haha!
Here's the track bar vs diff cover clearance, and tie rod vs track bar bracket while steered straight. Full lock brings it in mighty close.