Yeah pretty much! When I have it cranked my gloves can get aweful hot...and I have thick stick welding gloves not mig gloves. Though I will say an old welding technique led to a fried finger on these gloves hahaha
I got a few pics, the truss is going together great right now! I actually have the top layer on now, but no pics. Letting everything cool down a little bit, theres a LOT of weld to put that truss together!
Sorry for the sideways pic, but it shows: I welded the tubes, put the truss on, welded the outside of the truss leg then welded the inside to cast. It is SOLID.
It looks a little wierd, but here's the top of the diff. It's definately solid, the hammer marks and little slag bits just take away from it!
I put like 3-4 hours of welding into it, including preheating/postheating the cast and all that! It stayed pretty hot because of the cast heating, but I tried to space the truss welding with some intervals to spread the heating, still pretty dang warm for hours!
I did the lower control arm mounts and a little more cast welding today. Coil buckets will probably wait till I get it under the jeep and find the best rotation vs. pinion angle. Next things on the list right now are swapping in the 241 tcase and installing the rear crossmember so I can actually hang the 14 bolt!
Well, I pressed that ****ing 241 up into position 5 times today. First couple times the tranny was too high in the tunnel and I couldnt get it on, the other times were vice versa AGH. Haha. Aaaanyways, I finally got it and bolted the skid and rear crossmember up! This is just for measuring, then it comes back down to get the welded inserts put in, then the 44a comes out and i'll probably do a complete mock install, then the 14 bolt comes back out for the shave!
Well I talked to TnT today about the weld in inserts for the rear, and found out this is actually a pre-production kit haha! They haven't officially released these yet, but are expecting to in the next couples months so this is a treat for you guys! I will say that I personally think the double triangulated rear is the best setup on the market! Can't wait to really drive it and test it out.
I bolted everything together today to get the location of the holes I need for the weld in threaded inserts for hte rear crossmember. My call to TnT was to talk about this: If your doing it on just a frame rail you drill a 3/4" hole and the threaded insert's little step sits on the surface, but if you have the stiffeners also you want to drill the frame rail to 3/4" but the stiffener to 1" to sink the entire threaded insert into the stiffener for a flush mount.
(Yes, one of them landed in a hole I cut. I'm not too worried about it, I can still get a good amount of weld to the 1/4" plate and these were designed to be used with the stock frame rail anywhoo!)