YJ Trans swap, BA-10/5 to AX-15 ** Write Up - Page 2 - JeepForum.com
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Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Engines & Drivetrain > YJ Trans swap, BA-10/5 to AX-15 ** Write Up

Rockridge 4WD IS Taking Zone Offroad Suspension Lift Kits BLACK FRIDAY SPECIALS!! You asked, we deliver!Rough Country Lift Kits and Parts!

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Unread 04-10-2009, 09:30 PM   #16
rustywrangler
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jimmyjames330 View Post
i just bought a 88 wrangler it has a jasper 4.2 , a rebuilt ax15,and a rebuilt transfer case.20k miles ago but when i bought it every time i would start it , it would grind so i put a new starter in it. when i had the starter out i checked the fly wheel and it had a spot on it where two of the teeth where chipped off. and it was better for like two days then it just stopped grabbing so now i want to change the flywheel. but i dont know what flywheel to get should i get the one for the 4.2 or the one for the 4.0 that the ax15 came on.
You need a flywheel for the 4.2

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Unread 04-11-2009, 09:05 AM   #17
jimmyjames330
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thanks a lot i think i am going to attempt to do it myself the jeep shop here wants $85 an hour to look at it. i asked him to adjust my carb i have the weber 38 and he told me he would want to rebuild it before he tried any thing and said to rebuild and tune it i am looking at about $350? does any one know how to tune a weber 38 on a 4.2
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Unread 04-13-2009, 10:26 AM   #18
ursman
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I did this swap about 6 months ago and had great results. This is an excellent write-up! A couple of things that will further assist in the install:

I used a pilot bushing from a '73 CJ5 with a 304 and it fit perfectly. Lop off the end of a wood broom handle to tap the bushing in place. DO NOT under any circumstances use any metal object to tap in place (ie socket or drift punch). The bushing is very soft and it doesn't take any effort at all to booger it up making it useless. Ask me how I know. I had a similar problem with removing the old bearing and a Harbor Freight POS. I found that getting the slide hammer version from NAPA was far easier and had much better results. One small modification that I had to do was to grind the finger down a bit to make it narrow enough to slide into the old bearing/bushing. Be careful doing this so you don't grind it down so small that it makes it weak and breaks off. Grind less than 1/4" inch on either side should be good enuf!

Also, to ease removal and install, I took the two side bolts that mounted the trans to the engine, cut the heads off and cut a slice into the top for a screwdriver to fit into. I then replaced the bolts back into their spots and slid the trans back until the input shaft cleared the bushing. This was WAY easier than trying to align the engine and trans jack angles. You obviously will need to buy new side bolts to replace the ones you cut up.
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Unread 05-05-2009, 06:17 PM   #19
paulhead
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ursman View Post
I did this swap about 6 months ago and had great results. This is an excellent write-up! A couple of things that will further assist in the install:

I used a pilot bushing from a '73 CJ5 with a 304 and it fit perfectly. Lop off the end of a wood broom handle to tap the bushing in place. DO NOT under any circumstances use any metal object to tap in place (ie socket or drift punch). The bushing is very soft and it doesn't take any effort at all to booger it up making it useless. Ask me how I know. I had a similar problem with removing the old bearing and a Harbor Freight POS. I found that getting the slide hammer version from NAPA was far easier and had much better results. One small modification that I had to do was to grind the finger down a bit to make it narrow enough to slide into the old bearing/bushing. Be careful doing this so you don't grind it down so small that it makes it weak and breaks off. Grind less than 1/4" inch on either side should be good enuf!

Also, to ease removal and install, I took the two side bolts that mounted the trans to the engine, cut the heads off and cut a slice into the top for a screwdriver to fit into. I then replaced the bolts back into their spots and slid the trans back until the input shaft cleared the bushing. This was WAY easier than trying to align the engine and trans jack angles. You obviously will need to buy new side bolts to replace the ones you cut up.
Great write up!! Het ursman, what year ax15 did you swap in? I've read that different year ax15s have different size pilot bearings?
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Unread 05-31-2009, 08:57 PM   #20
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Shifter Problem

This was a great thread and so was the link. I just bought an 87 YJ. It is my first Jeep and the first stick shift that I have owned.

The gear shift came off and does not want to seat properly. I think that it still has the stock French tranny but can't find markings on it anywhere to verify.

Does the same shifter fit on both transmissions? Finding a replacement for the AX looks easier than for the BA. What is supossed to be holding it on? I was surprised that is wasn't pinned or screwed on.

Swapping transmissions isn't fianancially an option on my toy until it breaks. Help me fix this so I can get it trail ready!

Thanks.
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Unread 10-07-2009, 10:37 PM   #21
green89yj
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Can you elaborate on your clutch work a little more. I got a complete setup out of a Cherokee, and it has the roll pin connections. Which master cylinder and which slave cylinder did you use and how did you stick them together.
Looking at the Cherokee master, there is no way it can fit behind the brake booster and won't the travel be all messed up?
I read your article 4 times but wanted to make sure I understood you right.
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Unread 10-25-2009, 11:38 AM   #22
jeepman709
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I have already done 3 BA's myself and I am finally getting ready to do the exact same swap as you.The hardest part looks to be the 23 spline input shaft swap. Any other tips for doing the t case shaft? Great write up, best I have see...Thanks alot.
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Unread 12-01-2009, 12:03 PM   #23
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Sweet write-up, i guarantee this will save me from a ton of unessesary headaches in the future! Nice job documenting, but the pics dont show up...or is this just me?
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Unread 01-18-2010, 12:56 PM   #24
normalicy
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Thanks for the write-up. Would be nice to get some model numbers. Also, I heard that you need Front Bearing Retainer, Bearing Retainer Seal, And Gasket to do the external slave conversion. Is that so, or is this just being picky?
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Unread 08-22-2010, 12:48 AM   #25
88blkyj
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sorry to bring it up but what bearing do you need? any exact bearing you need to make it matchup? or just the ax15 bearing?
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Unread 08-29-2010, 12:01 AM   #26
mylightsrsquare
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awesome write up, i might do this swap sometime in the near future. my Peugeot has 178k on it and still going. i think im on borrowed time now
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Unread 08-30-2010, 08:56 PM   #27
88blkyj
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the pics are not working so I can not see how you managed to convert the clutch lines. can anyone help?
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Unread 08-30-2010, 09:34 PM   #28
normalicy
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From what I know, you'd just want to get the one for the 4.2.
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Unread 08-30-2010, 10:05 PM   #29
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Well my clutch is fine. but the lines do not just plug in.
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Unread 08-30-2010, 10:11 PM   #30
normalicy
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Quote:
the pics are not working so I can not see how you managed to convert the clutch lines. can anyone help?
Quote:
Well my clutch is fine. but the lines do not just plug in.
Doh, somehow I responded to the wrong post. I'd suggest this if I were you:
Hose Assembly For Master Clutch Slave 2.5L or 4.0L*52104113 by the Jeep Specialists | Morris 4x4 Center
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