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Unread 07-15-2013, 06:04 PM   #1
Nama
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transfer case from junk yard

Hi guys,

I am new to the forum. I have a 1997 jeep wrangler. 2 days ago I was driving down the highway and my transfer case blew apart. I had a nasty vibration just before it went.

I priced them out and its around 1k re-manufactured, found one for 400 bucks from a website that I dont want to buy from and the junk yard says 106 bucks to pull it myself. The 106 buck sounds just right in terms of price. The slip for interchange parts I got from the junk yard says that I can use a transfer case from:
94-96 Cherokee model 231 4 cyl. manual trans without tail shaft housing
97-00 Cherokee model 231 4 cyl manual trans (Command-trac)
97-99 wrangler model 231 4 cyl. manual trans
00-02 wrangler model 231 2.5L manual trans

My question is what is command-trac? Do I want to drop that in my wrangler?

Feel free to give any more info that I have not asked for here.

here is some pics.

http://imageshack.us/a/img824/9813/i96b.jpg


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Unread 07-16-2013, 12:29 AM   #2
DaemonForce
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I believe Command-Trac was the full extended answer to my Selec-Trac NP129 setup. Previous cases are 4H only and I'm given the option of 2H. The NP229 would give me the 4L option and I believe the NP231-242 does something else entirely. The options probably look something like 2H, 4PT, 4FT, N and 4L. Get what you want but make sure you have the same shaft splines and yokes or you'll be messing with drivelines, clearance lengths and other engineering derps.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 05:45 AM   #3
cruiser54
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Looks like it had no fluid in it. Get the numbers off the round tag and post them up
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Unread 07-16-2013, 08:56 AM   #4
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Have you checked the classified's here? Pretty sure I saw a 231 (maybe even with SYE) for sale there recently at good price. And the issue as to what donors a replacement 231 comes from (e.g. 4 v. 6, manual v. auto) is just a question of the splines and length on the input shaft. Either Novak or AA I forget which has a pretty good chart that shows what comes with what. If you get a good deal on something with the wrong input for your setup just saw the input shaft from your existing transfer case to it and make it work.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 01:40 PM   #5
Nama
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to cruiser54 It did have fluid in it, because I was laying in a puddle of fluid when I disconnected the drive shafts for tow home. As for the plate... you are looking at the spot where the plate should be. I think the plate is sitting somewhere on the highway. I was doing 55-60 mph when it went so I have no clue where it is. I will post the VIN for ya but that is the best I can do.
1J4FY29P4VP490739 its a 4 cyl. manual trans 5 speed.

I took a walk around the local junk yard and seen maybe 5 total Jeeps with manual trans 4 cyl. that had the 321 plate on the transfer case. They only want $106 for them so I am most likely going to buy one out of there.

biffgnar thanks for that little bit of info about just cutting down the input shaft, that is good to know.

I was looking at my Haynes repair manual and it said that the transmission and transfer case are removed as 1 unit. I would like to just remove the transfer case to save my self some extra heavy lifting. Anyone know if its possible to remove just the case and not the transmission with it? Or what could go wrong not pulling the transmission with the transfer case attached?

Thanks for the help guys, I am missing my Jeep already even tho my dad let me barrow his Cherokee till I get my Wrangler fixed.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 04:48 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nama View Post
to cruiser54 It did have fluid in it, because I was laying in a puddle of fluid when I disconnected the drive shafts for tow home. As for the plate... you are looking at the spot where the plate should be. I think the plate is sitting somewhere on the highway. I was doing 55-60 mph when it went so I have no clue where it is. I will post the VIN for ya but that is the best I can do.
1J4FY29P4VP490739 its a 4 cyl. manual trans 5 speed.

I took a walk around the local junk yard and seen maybe 5 total Jeeps with manual trans 4 cyl. that had the 321 plate on the transfer case. They only want $106 for them so I am most likely going to buy one out of there.

biffgnar thanks for that little bit of info about just cutting down the input shaft, that is good to know.

I was looking at my Haynes repair manual and it said that the transmission and transfer case are removed as 1 unit. I would like to just remove the transfer case to save my self some extra heavy lifting. Anyone know if its possible to remove just the case and not the transmission with it? Or what could go wrong not pulling the transmission with the transfer case attached?

Thanks for the help guys, I am missing my Jeep already even tho my dad let me barrow his Cherokee till I get my Wrangler fixed.
It's not cutting down the input shaft. It is opening TC and swapping input gears

Your TC can 100% be removed while leaving the transmission alone. Stop looking at Haynes. Get an FSM.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 04:58 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by biffgnar View Post

It's not cutting down the input shaft. It is opening TC and swapping input gears

Your TC can 100% be removed while leaving the transmission alone. Stop looking at Haynes. Get an FSM.
Place a good block of wood under the trans to support it with a jack or jackstand and you can drop the skid plate and remove the t-case only.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 08:34 PM   #8
Nama
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bifgnar Thanks for the response you say get an FSM, by that I think you mean Factory Service Manual. I checked google a little bit but all I can find is adware and mailware for a pdf down load. can you please recommend somewhere to buy a hard copy or down load a digital copy? Also thanks for the input on not removing the trans I really didnt want to have to pull that whole thing out again.

Last time I pulled the skid plate I had 1 bolt that was just spinning and I was unable to remove the plate fully. I figure the weld or what ever holds the nut broke loose inside the frame. Any tips on how to get this bolt out other than cutting it off? I will cut it if I have to but when I did the clutch I was able to just twist it off to the side but it would not pass the tire so I could just take the tire off and get it done just the same. Just thought I would ask.

You guys are a huge help. Thanks for the time and effort you put in I really appreciate it.
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Unread 07-16-2013, 08:36 PM   #9
Nama
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here is the front drive shaft pic: Enjoy



Uploaded with ImageShack.us
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Unread 07-17-2013, 07:05 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nama View Post
bifgnar Thanks for the response you say get an FSM, by that I think you mean Factory Service Manual. I checked google a little bit but all I can find is adware and mailware for a pdf down load. can you please recommend somewhere to buy a hard copy or down load a digital copy? Also thanks for the input on not removing the trans I really didnt want to have to pull that whole thing out again.

Last time I pulled the skid plate I had 1 bolt that was just spinning and I was unable to remove the plate fully. I figure the weld or what ever holds the nut broke loose inside the frame. Any tips on how to get this bolt out other than cutting it off? I will cut it if I have to but when I did the clutch I was able to just twist it off to the side but it would not pass the tire so I could just take the tire off and get it done just the same. Just thought I would ask.

You guys are a huge help. Thanks for the time and effort you put in I really appreciate it.
I honestly forget where I bought my FSM online. Other than just searching around which it sounds like you are already doing I'm not much help there. I can tell you that Morris 4x4 has them online where you can at least look at them for reference.

Those nuts that hold up the TC skid are in the frame with "nutserts". Them breaking loose is not uncommon. If you search there are many threads talking about how to address.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 09:06 AM   #11
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Nutsert Removal Thread

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f9/nu...nstall-390635/

I'm sure there are many more
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Unread 07-17-2013, 05:41 PM   #12
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I use a 1-1/4 inch hole saw and drilled a hole in the frame rail to access my spinning lock nuts then knocked them out with a chisel and put a grade 8 locking nut on the back when i reinstalled the skid plate. I am no engineer, but there are holes along the frame rail so I thought what the hell, I just add a couple more. I should add that I had to cut the heads off the bolts that correspond with said nut inserts.
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Unread 07-17-2013, 07:41 PM   #13
Nama
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Thank you all for your input. All posts were very helpful. I took off work Friday to repair the transfer case. With all the info I gathered here I think I am in good shape, in terms of knowledge of the swap. I will post pics of the transfer case removed so you guys can at least see what you helped me repair. I am glad I am now a member of this forum and I will be a paid member as soon as I get my "life fixed" ( I have to be out of this apartment by the first , before the transfer case went I had just bought a used 1995 F150 pickup that needs some work so I am really strapped for cash at the moment). You guys have been a huge help an I will do my best to contribute back to the community and keep jeepforum.com on top.

When I get done with the swap I will post pics of the old transfer case and the new used case. I will get as many pics as I can. In the mean time here is some eye candy of me enjoying my jeep when it was working.

my god after watching this vid I realy want my jeep back. Enjoy:

again thanks for all the helpful info, You all helped more than you will probably ever know. In return I will do my best to help other members who post on jeepforum.com.
I will let you all know how it goes and post a new jeep vid asap
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Unread 07-18-2013, 03:08 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nama View Post
I was looking at my Haynes repair manual and it said that the transmission and transfer case are removed as 1 unit. I would like to just remove the transfer case to save my self some extra heavy lifting. Anyone know if its possible to remove just the case and not the transmission with it? Or what could go wrong not pulling the transmission with the transfer case attached?
Support the transmission, remove all the "junk" attached to the transfer case, then unscrew the 6 nuts holding it to the adapter housing. Then just grab the transfer case and pull it off. It only weighs about 75 pounds, so even if you are small or old you should have no problem pulling it out.
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Unread 07-19-2013, 03:14 PM   #15
Nama
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I went to the junk yard today and unbolted everything on the transfer case but I was unable to pull it off. I think it was because of lack of a flat head screw driver or anything that could pry it out. I will be going back tomorrow to try again. This time I am going to bring a friend with me.
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