timing chain replacement? what mileage? - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 18 Old 10-21-2001, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
evilpsych
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timing chain replacement? what mileage?

hey guys.. what mileage/age should i start to think about replacing the timing chain on my 4.0 ?? 150k? doesnt really say in the book and i know they need to be replaced after a bunch of miles..


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post #2 of 18 Old 10-21-2001, 12:32 PM
glm 87 wrangler
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There is really no rule on when to change a chain and gears but you should always inspect
them.I Know its a little big under taking,but
if you used it as a daily driver and it hits the mud and rocks on the weekends you may say its in extreme conditions on a partime bases,so i would say from 50,000 to 60,000 miles you should take a peak and see what it looks like and replace if wear is shown.But if you have 150,000 miles I would take a look...Hopes this helps..

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post #3 of 18 Old 10-24-2001, 08:23 PM
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Timming chains normally let you know they are going bad by making a rattling noise at idle (slack). If your jeep is running well and you have no rattling noises from the front at idle. I wouldn't touch it. Unless you just want to spend about 3 hours in the garage.


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post #4 of 18 Old 10-01-2008, 10:26 PM
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I know several people who have over 300,000 miles on the 4.0 and the timing chain has never been an issue. My 2.5 has 184,00 miles on it and the timing chain is fine.
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post #5 of 18 Old 01-27-2010, 09:20 PM
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my XJ has about 100K on a replacement motor and I have a horrid rattling sound from the timing chain that only gets worse as you rev the engine. sometime very soon I will be replacing that. Me and two buddies will probably do ours as a group
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post #6 of 18 Old 01-30-2010, 09:44 PM
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240k on mine, no noises, and no plans to change it unless i hear noise at idle.
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post #7 of 18 Old 07-10-2010, 07:06 PM
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Ok... this has my attention.. I've got 352,000 on mine (95ZJ, 4.0L)and it does make a clicking noise while it's warming up, not to mention it's pretty lethargic when the temps get above 80F or so.. the clicking goes away with driving & rpm changes. Today it was idling a bit rough in the morning, added a bit of marvel oil to a full tank of gas and it seems to have smoothed it out, but the clicking continues.... I just did a 350 mile round trip with about 10 miles of interstate speed 6% grade climbing (CA's Grapevine) and it ran fine... any opinions?
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post #8 of 18 Old 07-10-2010, 09:18 PM
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My 89 has a rebuilt motor and it has always had horrible noise commingfrom the timing chain cover...I went as far as putting a new timing set in it last yearand it still sounds bad...put a new tensioner in there also.....what would cause excess timing chain noise???

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post #9 of 18 Old 07-10-2010, 09:24 PM
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post #10 of 18 Old 07-11-2010, 12:54 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Lostazhell View Post
Ok... this has my attention.. I've got 352,000 on mine (95ZJ, 4.0L)and it does make a clicking noise while it's warming up, not to mention it's pretty lethargic when the temps get above 80F or so.. the clicking goes away with driving & rpm changes. Today it was idling a bit rough in the morning, added a bit of marvel oil to a full tank of gas and it seems to have smoothed it out, but the clicking continues.... I just did a 350 mile round trip with about 10 miles of interstate speed 6% grade climbing (CA's Grapevine) and it ran fine... any opinions?
it sounds like you're due for a possible timing chain replacement and a good cleaning of the TB and intake manifold. Seafoam works wonders for cleaning off all the gunk and crap that eventually accumulates on the throttle plate/in around the IAC.

with that many miles, who knows what else has clogged or gunked up in the engine over the years. Generally fuel injectors tend to build up crap as do the spark plugs and ignition/EFI components get tired after so many miles.
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post #11 of 18 Old 07-17-2010, 10:21 PM
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Ok... Got everything pulled apart, timing chain was VERY loose, new timing set installed, cover and gasket reinstalled, briefly started before we began putting the rest of the puzzle back together and everything sounded good! Then the crankshaft bolt crosstheaded somehow when reinstalling the harmonic balancer... It went in easy about half way and then wouldn't budge any further either way... Wrench and cheater in hand, we eventually got it back out and the bolt was tore up the first 1/8th inch or so.. Off to the junkyard tomorrow for a new bolt... ran a tap into the bolthole and it went in quite easily, so crossing fingers that a new bolt fixes things... I'll update more tomorrow...
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post #12 of 18 Old 07-17-2010, 11:48 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by evilpsych View Post
hey guys.. what mileage/age should i start to think about replacing the timing chain on my 4.0 ?? 150k? doesnt really say in the book and i know they need to be replaced after a bunch of miles..
Timing chains should be replaced:
1) When stretch is beyond acceptable limits.
2) Whenever you're pulling them out anyhow (typically for a cam replacement.)

Timing chain stretch should be checked every 100Kmiles. Either:

Open - Using a straightedge, there should be not more than 1/4" of total deflection in either long span of the chain.

Closed - Remove the distributor cap, grab a Sharpie(r) and a 3/4" socket and large socket wrench. Turn the engine slighly in one direction by the crank nose (doesn't matter which way) to make sure all of the slack is out of the chain. Mark the harmonic damper at a convenient point on the timing scale (more than ten degrees from both ends,) and mark the distributor housing where one edge of the rotor terminal would intersect it.
- Turn the engine in the other direction until the rotor just begins to move. Stop. Note how far you've turned the crankshaft.
Five degrees or less - Ideal.
Ten to fifteen degrees - plan on changing the timing chain soon.
Fifteen degrees or more - change the timing set now.

(NB: This is crankshaft degrees, and therefore double camshaft degrees. If you had two degrees at the crankshaft, that's only one degree of "freeplay" at the cam, and therefore at the distributor.)

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post #13 of 18 Old 07-05-2012, 10:27 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
Timing chain stretch should be checked every 100Kmiles. Either:

Open - Using a straightedge, there should be not more than 1/4" of total deflection in either long span of the chain.

I have no idea what any of this means really. does anyone know if there's a thread with pics on how to check this? I've obviously never done it before. I'm at 113K miles now so I should check it out. Thanks.

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post #14 of 18 Old 07-05-2012, 11:42 PM
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Originally Posted by critterjeep View Post
I have no idea what any of this means really. does anyone know if there's a thread with pics on how to check this? I've obviously never done it before. I'm at 113K miles now so I should check it out. Thanks.
113K? I wouldn't worry about it.

Checking "deflection" is done with the chain cover off and a straightedge laid along the outside on the gears - you shouldn't be able to push the chain inward more than 1/4" from the straightedge.

You don't need to pull the cover off to check chain stretch, tho. Remove distributor cap, take a 3/4" socket on a long-handled 1/2" drive ratchet and turn the engine anticlockwise a bit (1/8-turn or so, you're "slacking" the side of the chain.)

Then, mark the housing at the edge of the rotor top. Reverse the ratchet, then slowly turn the crankshaft clockwise. See how far it turns at the crankshaft before the rotor starts to turn - note how far you had to turn the crank pully (you can make marks on the pully if you want - don't do anything permanent - but it's easiest to line up the marks that are already present.

How far did you turn the crank pully before the rotor moved?
- <5*: okeh.
- 6-9*: plan to replace
- 10*+: replace at next opportunity.

At least, that's how I remember it. NB: You note how far the crankshaft pully turns before the rotor moves.

Doesn't matter how far the rotor moves, just stop turning when it does move and see how far you turned the crankshaft pully. Kinda shade-tree, but it's worked for me for years, and doesn't require replacing a gasket or seal or any such thing.

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post #15 of 18 Old 07-07-2012, 06:05 PM
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Originally Posted by 5-90 View Post
Five degrees or less - Ideal.
Ten to fifteen degrees - plan on changing the timing chain soon.
Fifteen degrees or more - change the timing set now.

(NB: This is crankshaft degrees, and therefore double camshaft degrees. If you had two degrees at the crankshaft, that's only one degree of "freeplay" at the cam, and therefore at the distributor.)
Pretty much straight out of the FSM
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