Synthetic Oil VS Regular Oil - Page 3 - JeepForum.com

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post #31 of 37 Old 07-13-2007, 11:16 AM
blueknight44
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30 years ago Mobil 1 full syn oil was rated for 25,000 miles before a need to change.

I change the oil filter every 3,000 miles and add one quart of new Mobile 1

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post #32 of 37 Old 07-14-2007, 09:13 PM
JeepZJlover
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ok let me explain myself a little more. I ran castrol full syntec and it ran hotter and louder with it then castrol 10w-30 with the lucas. I dont really care bout them bob the oil guy whatever my jeep is quiter and burns less with lucas and castrol together. soooo thats why i run it. maybe its not right or anyones cup of tea but it makes me happy so thats why i do it.

1993 Cherokee 4dr SE green, 4.0, Auto, HP30, 8.25, 3" lift 31" Goodyear Duratracs, Custom made front recovery bumper, Kenwood radio, 12" alpine type e subwoofer,alpine amplifier, Smittybilt xrc8 winch, tuff stuff portable winch receiver custom modified. 2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, Dana 30 front, Dana 44 trac loc rear, Stock
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post #33 of 37 Old 07-15-2007, 01:06 PM
cowpie01
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JeepZJlover
ok let me explain myself a little more. I ran castrol full syntec and it ran hotter and louder with it then castrol 10w-30 with the lucas. I dont really care bout them bob the oil guy whatever my jeep is quiter and burns less with lucas and castrol together. soooo thats why i run it. maybe its not right or anyones cup of tea but it makes me happy so thats why i do it.

I don't think anyone here will give you a load of grief over what you want to put in your engine. They are just pointing you to testing that has been done. I don't want to use it, but if Lucas was a terrible product that will cause things to fall apart sooner, it would not have a market very long.

Most oils are far and away sufficient for any user. Additives are not necessary except for special applications. Many additive companies are playing on our desire to get the most out of our investment. With vehicle purchases almost like buying a house now, it is easy to market items that make great claims.

It is possible that the Castrol you were using was not one of the best oils out there. Castrol makes some good products but have really dropped the ball in others. Comparison testing has shown that to be true. Heck, even the venerated Mobil 1 has flaws in some of the product line with other products being excellent. Unfortunately, the John Q. Public does not have the wherewithal to check out the testing and the desire to check them out in most cases. But if one is serious about it, there is good information out there regarding most oils.

In my case, I find it worthwhile to research a little on how oils stack up. My business and personal vehicles cost a lot of money. I want what works and will keep my farm tractor, semi, and Liberty CRD in top condition. But then, not everyone has a few hundred thousand dollars invested.

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post #34 of 37 Old 07-15-2007, 07:07 PM
JeepZJlover
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hot dam you live in iowa hmm i ought to come see ya

1993 Cherokee 4dr SE green, 4.0, Auto, HP30, 8.25, 3" lift 31" Goodyear Duratracs, Custom made front recovery bumper, Kenwood radio, 12" alpine type e subwoofer,alpine amplifier, Smittybilt xrc8 winch, tuff stuff portable winch receiver custom modified. 2002 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0, 5 speed, Dana 30 front, Dana 44 trac loc rear, Stock
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post #35 of 37 Old 07-15-2007, 09:00 PM
Rocky.ca
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I was hung up on whether or not to switch to syn. I decided for this oil change just to use valvoline maxlife dyno oil. I dont have the money to start dealing with leaks, and with around 110 000 miles on the engine already it is a very possible outcome. Maybe next summer, when i start working again i will make the switch.

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post #36 of 37 Old 07-16-2007, 07:37 PM
CNY
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kyle Deidrick
......... if you have been running dino then stick with it as many people have made the switch and it has caused there seals/gaskets to leak because of the dino wearing off..........
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZeroDormancy
from my research if you want to switch to syn its good to do a gradual change..........
I'm not a guy who is into spending the extra $ for synthetic, but it's amazing how a few stories spread into commonly accepted knowledge.

From:
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...eage_Cars.aspx

There is simply no factual basis to this myth. You can switch to Mobil 1 synthetic motor oil at any age or mileage and, as long as the engine is in good mechanical condition, you should reap all the benefits that you would experience in a new car. In fact, switching a car from mineral oil to Mobil 1 at higher mileage can help reduce engine sludge and other harmful deposits that may have accumulated over the years.


BTW, I have always used whatever oil is cheapest, without regard to brand, mixing brands, mixing weights (10w40, 10w30)... oil changes anywhere between 4,000 to 7,000 miles. If I cared about having an engine last more than 250,000 miles, I might care more about the oil.
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post #37 of 37 Old 07-16-2007, 10:17 PM
gamble71
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this is the way it was explained to me in my lubricants class for my A&P. Mineral oil will form sludge/deposits that will stop oil leaks. Synthetic oils clean up the sludge/deposits and the oil leak appears. Hence the reason so many people claim synthetics cause oil leaks. It doesn't destroy and gaskets/bearing materials or surfaces. I'm going to keep it in the jeep as long as I can, not sure how the 4.0 is on oil leaks. My ford 4.0 is quite the leaker, so mineral it stays
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