Starting a brand new engine.

**moonshinefuel** · 08-21-2009, 07:35 PM

I purchased a new old stock 2.5 engine factory assembly line engine. It was basically assembled on the assembly line, and never started. So, I am wondering the best course of action for starting this engine. From what I understand the cam is most vunerable with a brand new engine.

ClimbStuff · 08-21-2009, 10:14 PM

The first 2 mins are the most important part of the engine. The cam is extremely vulnerable at this time. If it has been lubed properly, then as long as a quality oil is in it, you should be fine. Start the engine on a warm day, and let it run for 5-10min before doing any driving. For the first 50 miles, keep it below 2000rpm. For the first 500 miles, take it easy. Let the oil do its thing and let the engine settle itself in. After 500 miles, change the oil, add a magnetic drain plug, and drive normal but don't put heavy loads on it for another 500 miles. After that, any metal that may have been shaved away from the rings or cylinder walls should be stuck to the plug. Drain the oil and put fresh oil in it again. After that you should be able to flog on it as hard as you want with no worries.

At least thats how I broke in all the engines I put together in the last 16yrs.

jeepdaddy2000 · 08-21-2009, 10:26 PM

Pull the distributor and prime the oil pump. This is a good time to check the oil pressure as well.

**moonshinefuel** · 08-23-2009, 10:39 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ClimbStuff

The first 2 mins are the most important part of the engine. The cam is extremely vulnerable at this time. If it has been lubed properly, then as long as a quality oil is in it, you should be fine. Start the engine on a warm day, and let it run for 5-10min before doing any driving. For the first 50 miles, keep it below 2000rpm. For the first 500 miles, take it easy. Let the oil do its thing and let the engine settle itself in. After 500 miles, change the oil, add a magnetic drain plug, and drive normal but don't put heavy loads on it for another 500 miles. After that, any metal that may have been shaved away from the rings or cylinder walls should be stuck to the plug. Drain the oil and put fresh oil in it again. After that you should be able to flog on it as hard as you want with no worries.

At least thats how I broke in all the engines I put together in the last 16yrs.

What kind of oil do think is best from your experience? Is synthetic a bad idea you think? And the first 2 minutes, should I raise the idle some, say up 2000 rpm to get the oil flowing better? Have you done it that way yourself?

**moonshinefuel** · 08-23-2009, 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000

Pull the distributor and prime the oil pump. This is a good time to check the oil pressure as well.

I apologize if I am mis-understanding here. To prime the oil pump, I need to pull my distributor correct? I have to take that out and swap it anyways with the other new distributor I will be using, and you can prime it through the distributor? Sorry for my ignorance here. I work on engines, I just have never dealt with a new engine like this, and i do not want to do it wrong the first time if I can help it.

**leftlanetruckin** · 08-23-2009, 02:31 PM

ALWAYS prime the oil pump. this will get oil to the top end, camshaft, around the crank etc.
basically, remove the distributor, and slide an oil pump primer down in there that is attached to a cordless drill. it spins the oil pump.
i also leave the valve cover(s) off to make sure the top end is getting the required oil.
if you want to run synthetic permanently, then put it in there from day one. i use a thin oil for the first few hundred miles, gets to the top end quicker.
break in these days is pretty irrelevant in my experience. just dont rev the nuts out of it, and try not to cruise on the highway at the same rpm's all day. varying rpm's and a pretty light load is the best bet.
here is a link for oil pump primers
SummitRacing.com

martin

ClimbStuff · 08-23-2009, 07:17 PM

Any engine you don't assemble yourself should be primed with oil before starting I agree. I generally build all of mine so I add lots of assembly lube in the top end and can manage w/o doing it.

As far as oil goes, I made a choice a long time ago as to what I would stand by for a daily driving engine and what I recommend for a work horse or racing engine:

For a Daily Driver: Mobile 1 Tri-Synthetic. The biggest reason? This is the only oil that GM allows a Corvette to leave the line with. I don't know another engine designed for daily operation that can out perform an LS1/2/6/7 for extended periods of time, and if Mobile 1 is what the dealers use in it, its good enough for me. Its a bit more expensive but I personally have never lost a bottom end on it either.

For my high power/ RPM engines, I tend to lean towards Royal Purple with a shot of Lucus for good luck. I have had several 9000rpm engines and several 100hp+ / cylinder engines over the years and Royal Purple has never let me down.

1998zj · 08-23-2009, 08:04 PM

There are a lot of 300,000 mile Jeeps out there that have had nothing but dino oil in them. Just keep clean oil in it and it will be fine. I worked with a guy that got 400,000 out of a Geo Metro and used whatever oil was cheapest. He just kept it clean.

**leftlanetruckin** · 08-23-2009, 08:04 PM

i also build all my own motors, but if you can show me how to get assembly lube into the pushrods etc, i will forget the oil priming...

priming the oil pump is the ONLY way to ensure the oil is getting to the top end of the motor.
remove valve covers.
prime pump.
watch for oil where it is supposed to be.
better safe than sorry, and ruining a good motor due to a partially blocked oil passage in the block.....

martin

**moonshinefuel** · 08-24-2009, 07:55 PM

Thank you all very much. I will be buying the pump primer, a worthy investment for sure. Checking it with valve cover off. Thanks again.

**leftlanetruckin** · 08-25-2009, 12:41 AM

more than welcome

it is very cheap insurance IMHO.

martin

jeepdaddy2000 · 08-25-2009, 04:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin

i also build all my own motors, but if you can show me how to get assembly lube into the pushrods etc, i will forget the oil priming...

priming the oil pump is the ONLY way to ensure the oil is getting to the top end of the motor.
remove valve covers.
prime pump.
watch for oil where it is supposed to be.
better safe than sorry, and ruining a good motor due to a partially blocked oil passage in the block.....

martin

Or a forgotten galley plug. Priming insures instantaneous oil pressure on starting. If one is careful you can make one out of an old screwdriver and a socket.

ClimbStuff · 08-25-2009, 08:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by leftlanetruckin

i also build all my own motors, but if you can show me how to get assembly lube into the pushrods etc, i will forget the oil priming...

priming the oil pump is the ONLY way to ensure the oil is getting to the top end of the motor.
remove valve covers.
prime pump.
watch for oil where it is supposed to be.
better safe than sorry, and ruining a good motor due to a partially blocked oil passage in the block.....

martin

I guess I should have been more specific... For the most part, I only build OHC engines, so all the lubing is pretty easy. Its been a long while since Ive messed with a push rod... but if I do a SBC in my TJ next year, itll probably be a 420ish inch carby for sure

Lifesgoodhere · 08-25-2009, 10:09 PM

adding to this, use NON DETERGENT 30 weight as a break in oil. That oil won't "Hold" metal shavings and will allow them to sink to the bottom and stay their till you change the oil. Why use detergent when its a new engine? Its already clean to begin with, don't need to power wash and baked on oil away.

Pull the valve cover off and drizzle some oil on the rockers.

When you first start it, don't let it idle, try to keep it around 2000 RPM to get the oil going through the engine faster, for higher oil pressure. Also will help seat the rings.

Only run it for about 5 minutes the first time you start it; check and adjust timing, then let it cool completely. Start it again, and then do the 5-10 minutes before driving it. The rest of the break in is up to how much you want to baby it.

jeepdaddy2000 · 08-26-2009, 10:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Lifesgoodhere

When you first start it, don't let it idle, try to keep it around 2000 RPM to get the oil going through the engine faster, for higher oil pressure. Also will help seat the rings.

Only run it for about 5 minutes the first time you start it; check and adjust timing, then let it cool completely. Start it again, and then do the 5-10 minutes before driving it. The rest of the break in is up to how much you want to baby it.

The only addendum to this is to follow your cam manufactures guidelines for initial start up. Many recommend that you bring your engine up to 1500RPM for ten to fifteen minutes or so to properly break in the cam and lifters.