I tried a longer slip yoke, but still kept pulling the SY out of the TC. Then I had to replace the TC after it developed a leak. Why did it leak? Glad you asked, because it cracked at the rear bearing. Why did it crack? I was told by the transmission shop because in their words, I used a stupid long SY to avoid doing it correctly. The angles on the ujoints from the larger angle caused vibrations that wouldn't go away, add the stress from moving the center of the u joint trunnion further out on the tail shaft and you can wear out your seal, crack the tailshaft housing or the rear of the TC from it. In my case that is what I did. Transmission shop said it was a crap shoot. Some people never had an issue, some people only had the small issue of the seal leaking others had catastrophic failure (like mine). I ended up finding a complete NP231 for cheaper than I could replace just the parts that failed so I bought it and before I swapped it in, installed the JB Conversions Super Shorty Slip Yoke Eliminator. My rear DS went from 13 1/4" long to 21 1/4" long. Yeah horrible I know right? I decreased the angles on my U joints and installed a CV/double cardigan joint and have had zero issues since. The guys at the shop said that the loads put on it at full articulation and creeping on the rocks is what did it in. Tried to save a buck and some time and paid for it more than twice.
So yeah I have no idea what I'mm talking about.
Yes, apparently you do not know what i am talking about
Wow so you did something WRONG, and also not what im talking about at all, and because you cant see the pics nor understand them you compare that to using a longer slip yoke as the answer to retubing your shaft or add a SCV head to the shaft that is existing as 1 of 2 options when the angles increase from suspension lifts.
You should read more and understand what is what before just talking about something we or I am not and then outing yourself with fact for you
doing something WRONG, and not I.
Again, plenty of Jeeps off pavement with 0.0 issues, anyone with any knowledge of driveline and angles knows extending the slip yoke doesn't alter the angle issue, as all you did was gain more spline engagement and the pivot point is STILL at the same location, and i did not give the option of using a longer slip yoke when YOU NEEDED to retube your shaft.
So now i'll explain again in detail so you can EASILY understand, the 1st pic a couple post above replaces the slip yoke at the shaft, the CV head beneath the pic of the slip yoke is installed into the shaft, the old weld yoke is machined and removed and the CV head is pressed into the shaft, trued, welded and balanced with the slip yoke in the 1st pic that then gets bolted to the CV head in the lower picture and makes a complete shaft.
When those 2 pieces are used they ALLEVIATE any angle issues and allow the pin to be pointed at the shafts angle further eliminating any bind issue from angles and it also alleviates the amount of slip travel that would be more using a regular single jointed shaft.
Where the hell did i tell anyone to do something like what YOU did anywhere in this post ??? please show me the pic i posted of the long slip yoke, nope you can't because i never said to do something as Wrong as what you did.
You took the short cut and instead of taking one of the 2 or even 3 options you did the WRONG thing and used a longer slip yoke, YOU have done the WRONG thing, never think i would do something or even explaining something YOU did to anyone as a alternative to a problem.