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-   -   Slip yoke eliminator versus longer yoke (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/slip-yoke-eliminator-versus-longer-yoke-1562890/)

04Unlimired 08-15-2013 10:11 PM

Slip yoke eliminator versus longer yoke
 
Hey guys been thinking about doing a tummy tuck on my 04 LJ but I've been debating in the slip yolk eliminator and I was thinking could I just get a longer yolk shaft versus getting a slip yolk eliminator kit which would be cheaper? Pros and cons? Which would ride better? Any input would be greatly appreciated thanks

schitzangiggles 08-16-2013 12:50 AM

Just do it right and do it once.
If you ask my daughter who is 9 years old she will tell you "there are 2 ways to do things, right, and again."
The SS SYE gave me another 7" of drive shaft length which brought my angles to acceptable levels. You are gonna eat u joints and have some craptastic driving vibrations. You will also be placing a lot of stress on the tail shaft.

vadslram 08-16-2013 08:08 AM

I agree on the SYE
and


because sometimes I just gotta be a PIA
Where to you get the egg modifier? Whenever I make breakfast my yolks are always slipping around the pan and I can never keep them centered:laugh::laugh:

Slip YOKE , egg YOLK

Evildriver-3 08-16-2013 10:02 AM

The only option you would have would be to use slip yoke with cv head which would just be changing the shaft and not touching the tcase

04Unlimired 08-16-2013 03:17 PM

That's kinda what I thought a friend of mine told me I could try that and I was like nah don't think so but do you guys know roughly how much a slip yolk eliminator would cost?

schitzangiggles 08-16-2013 06:50 PM

The one I run
http://www.jbconversions.com/product..._short_sye.php
Scroll down and see why it is worth the extra $$. I have been running it for nearly 7 years and nary an issue.
I got a CV DS from a mid 80's chevy/gmc solid axle pickup/blazer for @ $20 and had it shortened a bit and balanced for under $50. The Chevy front driveshaft has the same Ujoints as your jeep and unlike a Cherokee driveshaft, THICK wall tube.

uberxj92 08-17-2013 09:42 PM

My best friend has the extended yoke and have sye. In a year he's rebuilt 2 drive shafts. I'm on the same one.
Longer yoke is a band aid.

Evildriver-3 08-18-2013 10:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 04Unlimired (Post 15801974)
That's kinda what I thought a friend of mine told me I could try that and I was like nah don't think so but do you guys know roughly how much a slip yolk eliminator would cost?

Im saying you can do this instead of changing the shaft in the tcase

See your local driveline shop and get this style slip yoke

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...fts/CVslip.jpg

Then they add this style CV head to your shaft and that piece once built into your shaft then bolts to the slip above

http://i679.photobucket.com/albums/v...tylecvhead.jpg

That removes the angle issues, i have done this on more jeeps than i can count

schitzangiggles 08-18-2013 02:48 PM

Must do some light wheeling, all that expense and you still loose your fluid when it pulls out or your shaft/u joint breaks and now you have to presidential solution your rig just to get home.
What is the cost for that set up?
Wranglers have too short of a wheel base to not want a longer DS.

Oh and just because you have done it a lot doesn't mean you did it right.

uberxj92 08-19-2013 07:49 AM

Wow. So basically you modded and fabbed a longer slip yoke onto a double Cardin. That looks weak and dangerous to me.
How much does it cost?
It would be easier stronger safer to just do it right with a SYE.

schitzangiggles 08-19-2013 11:49 AM

The tail-shaft bearings were never designed to support the loading that set up is going to do to it. Side loading a cast aluminum case not designed for that kind of load? No thank you.

A coupla inches of leverage might not seem like a lot, but it is only a coupla inches difference between 1" or 2" body lift to a 3"or 4" body lift and no one would ever reccomend a 4" body lift because of the loading to the body mounts and shear forces beyond what it was designed for.

Seems like a lot of effort, time, and money to avoid doing it right and doing it once.
YMMV

Evildriver-3 08-22-2013 06:56 AM

Your comments are most definitely from your testing to make such claims, i guess ? I can guess that having known you never did any testing of the other option allows me to tell you that your claims aren't true, I have lots of jeeps with that set up without issue and oddly enough no such nonsense is happening to any that opted for that set up vs the sye. No such mayhem has happened to any of there t-case, and some are in use for more than 10 yrs now, but it's wrong ?

So you know both options work, one is involved and requires the dismantling of the t-case, and a trip to your local driveline shop and installing a shaft, while the other simply involves a trip to your local driveline shop and installing a shaft .

So the effort is less, as is the time and oddly enough the money is less

schitzangiggles 08-22-2013 11:33 AM

I tried a longer slip yoke, but still kept pulling the SY out of the TC. Then I had to replace the TC after it developed a leak. Why did it leak? Glad you asked, because it cracked at the rear bearing. Why did it crack? I was told by the transmission shop because in their words, I used a stupid long SY to avoid doing it correctly. The angles on the ujoints from the larger angle caused vibrations that wouldn't go away, add the stress from moving the center of the u joint trunnion further out on the tail shaft and you can wear out your seal, crack the tailshaft housing or the rear of the TC from it. In my case that is what I did. Transmission shop said it was a crap shoot. Some people never had an issue, some people only had the small issue of the seal leaking others had catastrophic failure (like mine). I ended up finding a complete NP231 for cheaper than I could replace just the parts that failed so I bought it and before I swapped it in, installed the JB Conversions Super Shorty Slip Yoke Eliminator. My rear DS went from 13 1/4" long to 21 1/4" long. Yeah horrible I know right? I decreased the angles on my U joints and installed a CV/double cardigan joint and have had zero issues since. The guys at the shop said that the loads put on it at full articulation and creeping on the rocks is what did it in. Tried to save a buck and some time and paid for it more than twice.

So yeah I have no idea what I'mm talking about.

If you never leave the pavement, you will probably never have an issue, but if you do any kind of wheeling like I do, buy a lotto ticket.

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but always enough time to do it again...
I'll post up some pics later if I can find them.

uberxj92 08-22-2013 12:38 PM

I have used the longer sy, I have h&t , I have even tried a similar set up as yours but we used a cv ds instead of the double Cardin. It worked for street driving. First time on the beach it spit and tore the rear seal.
Sorry I believe spending the time and cash in the beginning is better than the time down and tow bills later

Evildriver-3 08-22-2013 01:00 PM

Quote:

I tried a longer slip yoke, but still kept pulling the SY out of the TC. Then I had to replace the TC after it developed a leak. Why did it leak? Glad you asked, because it cracked at the rear bearing. Why did it crack? I was told by the transmission shop because in their words, I used a stupid long SY to avoid doing it correctly. The angles on the ujoints from the larger angle caused vibrations that wouldn't go away, add the stress from moving the center of the u joint trunnion further out on the tail shaft and you can wear out your seal, crack the tailshaft housing or the rear of the TC from it. In my case that is what I did. Transmission shop said it was a crap shoot. Some people never had an issue, some people only had the small issue of the seal leaking others had catastrophic failure (like mine). I ended up finding a complete NP231 for cheaper than I could replace just the parts that failed so I bought it and before I swapped it in, installed the JB Conversions Super Shorty Slip Yoke Eliminator. My rear DS went from 13 1/4" long to 21 1/4" long. Yeah horrible I know right? I decreased the angles on my U joints and installed a CV/double cardigan joint and have had zero issues since. The guys at the shop said that the loads put on it at full articulation and creeping on the rocks is what did it in. Tried to save a buck and some time and paid for it more than twice.

So yeah I have no idea what I'mm talking about.
Yes, apparently you do not know what i am talking about


Wow so you did something WRONG, and also not what im talking about at all, and because you cant see the pics nor understand them you compare that to using a longer slip yoke as the answer to retubing your shaft or add a SCV head to the shaft that is existing as 1 of 2 options when the angles increase from suspension lifts.

You should read more and understand what is what before just talking about something we or I am not and then outing yourself with fact for you doing something WRONG, and not I.

Again, plenty of Jeeps off pavement with 0.0 issues, anyone with any knowledge of driveline and angles knows extending the slip yoke doesn't alter the angle issue, as all you did was gain more spline engagement and the pivot point is STILL at the same location, and i did not give the option of using a longer slip yoke when YOU NEEDED to retube your shaft.


So now i'll explain again in detail so you can EASILY understand, the 1st pic a couple post above replaces the slip yoke at the shaft, the CV head beneath the pic of the slip yoke is installed into the shaft, the old weld yoke is machined and removed and the CV head is pressed into the shaft, trued, welded and balanced with the slip yoke in the 1st pic that then gets bolted to the CV head in the lower picture and makes a complete shaft.
When those 2 pieces are used they ALLEVIATE any angle issues and allow the pin to be pointed at the shafts angle further eliminating any bind issue from angles and it also alleviates the amount of slip travel that would be more using a regular single jointed shaft.


Where the hell did i tell anyone to do something like what YOU did anywhere in this post ??? please show me the pic i posted of the long slip yoke, nope you can't because i never said to do something as Wrong as what you did.

You took the short cut and instead of taking one of the 2 or even 3 options you did the WRONG thing and used a longer slip yoke, YOU have done the WRONG thing, never think i would do something or even explaining something YOU did to anyone as a alternative to a problem.

.


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