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Unread 09-10-2013, 03:29 PM   #1
Terry777
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Self adjusting valves & lifters or not so much ?

I`ve been told by another that even though my inline 6 is known by most that the lifters and valves self adjust that they still need a little tweak when it get over the 200,000 mark, then it`s good for many more...

The issue to clear up is when I`m in gear at a light the idle is fine but it then it almost chokes for a second like it just missed a beat then is fine for a couple seconds and does it again.

If I just barely touch the pedal it`s fine as that raises the rpm up just out of the choke zone...

I`ve also had others say it`s the fuel pump or filter but this JEEP loving Jeep specific mechanic,,, has assured me it`s the lifters & valve clearance...

Cleaned, O2 sensors, intake manifold sensor, new plugs & gaped, wires, rotor, cap, new air filter. New crank position sensor last year. Use gas grade that one above the cheap **** and always same Chevron brand...

Cheers

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Unread 09-10-2013, 03:33 PM   #2
Red Rubicon
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I would love to watch your Jeep mechanic friend adjust the valves on a 4.0 Jeep engine.
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Unread 09-10-2013, 07:08 PM   #3
Terry777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Red Rubicon View Post
I would love to watch your Jeep mechanic friend adjust the valves on a 4.0 Jeep engine.
Sounds funny wish I could laugh along... Anyone have time to explain
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Unread 09-11-2013, 05:19 AM   #4
cruiser54
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry777 View Post
Sounds funny wish I could laugh along... Anyone have time to explain
They're NOT adjustable........

Sounds more like a bad O2 sensor or something. NOT valve adjustment. Ever had teh codes pulled?

CLEANING O2 sensors?
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Unread 09-11-2013, 05:47 AM   #5
vadslram
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In a warped sense they are adjustable after 200k.
With that many miles the shanks will have stretched a few microns and the valve faces and seats will have eroded some. So you"could adjust the valve lentgh with a file...



Or you could just do it right and have the heads reconditioned.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 06:42 AM   #6
cruiser54
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But valves wouldn't cause the issue described. The lifters "take up the slack" so to speak.

Either the OP or his mechanic have a communication problem or the mechanic is full of it.
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An index to over 25 write-ups can be found in Post #1.

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Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Unread 09-11-2013, 09:16 AM   #7
laybackman
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry777 View Post
I`ve been told by another that even though my inline 6 is known by most that the lifters and valves self adjust that they still need a little tweak when it get over the 200,000 mark, then it`s good for many more...

The issue to clear up is when I`m in gear at a light the idle is fine but it then it almost chokes for a second like it just missed a beat then is fine for a couple seconds and does it again.

If I just barely touch the pedal it`s fine as that raises the rpm up just out of the choke zone...

I`ve also had others say it`s the fuel pump or filter but this JEEP loving Jeep specific mechanic,,, has assured me it`s the lifters & valve clearance...

Cleaned, O2 sensors, intake manifold sensor, new plugs & gaped, wires, rotor, cap, new air filter. New crank position sensor last year. Use gas grade that one above the cheap **** and always same Chevron brand...

Cheers
Remove the IAC from the throttle body. Clean it with carb cleaner and 0000 steel wool or a small steel brush. DO NOT pull the end of it out. Clean the bore the IAC sits in also. Give the entire inner bore of the TB a shot of carb cleaner also.
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Unread 09-11-2013, 10:37 AM   #8
Terry777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
Remove the IAC from the throttle body. Clean it with carb cleaner and 0000 steel wool or a small steel brush. DO NOT pull the end of it out. Clean the bore the IAC sits in also. Give the entire inner bore of the TB a shot of carb cleaner also.
Forgot to mention I did all that to before I pulled and cleaned the O2`s...
Took the IAC out and it was clean, cleaned it anyway...

I also removed the sensor that`s threaded inside the intake manifold beside the throttle body and cleaned it.

All the above had no affect. throttle body lever plate was black on one side but not coated thick same inside TB...
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Unread 09-11-2013, 01:17 PM   #9
Terry777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadslram View Post
In a warped sense they are adjustable after 200k.
With that many miles the shanks will have stretched a few microns and the valve faces and seats will have eroded some. So you"could adjust the valve lentgh with a file...



Or you could just do it right and have the heads reconditioned.
I think that`s the winner, I`m sure he mentioned filing and makes sense.

This guys no dip **** I just don`t trust anyone as a rule until I understand in detail not sure why I forgot but that puts things back into perspective...

With that said my fuel filter is inside the tank and my XJ has 240,000 km so this could go ether way...
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Unread 09-12-2013, 06:09 AM   #10
vadslram
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WHOA WHOA WHOA
I was JOKING!!
The effort it would take to remove the head, mic all the valves stems and adjust them is just ridiculous. You do that to set up race engines, not keep a DD older Jeep from coughing.

If it is happening just at one point in the throttle travel I would spend some effort on seeing what the ECU sees as you push down. It could be that you have a little drop out in the TPS and that is causing the stumble. If the valve stems were stretched or the seats were eroded you would notice it throughout the rpm range.
As with most modern engines, suspect electronics before mechanical. The trons are much more sneeky.
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Unread 09-12-2013, 06:12 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vadslram View Post
WHOA WHOA WHOA
I was JOKING!!
The effort it would take to remove the head, mic all the valves stems and adjust them is just ridiculous. You do that to set up race engines, not keep a DD older Jeep from coughing.

If it is happening just at one point in the throttle travel I would spend some effort on seeing what the ECU sees as you push down. It could be that you have a little drop out in the TPS and that is causing the stumble.
As with most modern engines, suspect electronics before mechanical. The trons are much more sneeky.
I thought you were, but just had to make sure. I'm not feeling warm and fuzzy about his mechanic if we're getting the straight scoop here.

Maybe the engine ticks like crazy.

Does it, Terry777?
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If you own a Renix Jeep, you'll want to check this out. >

An index to over 25 write-ups can be found in Post #1.

Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips
Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Unread 09-12-2013, 01:04 PM   #12
Terry777
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Maybe I`ll post up on youtube and you can tell me, I think it sounds perfect the ticking came after the air box hack I did letting it breath.

As far as the filing, I`m sure he mentioned just removing the head cover.
His price was within reason so it wouldn't have involved removing the head that slipped right past me

I`ll give him a call and ask again...
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Unread 09-12-2013, 01:12 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Terry777 View Post
Maybe I`ll post up on youtube and you can tell me, I think it sounds perfect the ticking came after the air box hack I did letting it breath.

As far as the filing, I`m sure he mentioned just removing the head cover.
His price was within reason so it wouldn't have involved removing the head that slipped right past me

I`ll give him a call and ask again...
After you did the 'air box hack' as you put it, did you reset the ECM and dump the learned memory? If not then I would do so.

Remove the + battery cable from the + battery post and ground it out for 30
seconds. That drains the capacitors in the ECM and wipes out the learned memory.

Now from a cold start take it for a decent ride and let the ECM get some fresh readings and develop a new learned memory.
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Unread 09-12-2013, 01:44 PM   #14
Terry777
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Just got off the phone with him, He doesn`t remember our talk last year and assured me He can`t adjust the lifters and we must have been talking about something else.

I`m puzzled, maybe we were getting down to the nitty gritty of what could be done and not so much about what I should do...


Sorry for the wild goose chase, my bad
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Unread 09-12-2013, 02:03 PM   #15
Terry777
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Quote:
Originally Posted by laybackman View Post
After you did the 'air box hack' as you put it, did you reset the ECM and dump the learned memory? If not then I would do so.

Remove the + battery cable from the + battery post and ground it out for 30
seconds. That drains the capacitors in the ECM and wipes out the learned memory.

Now from a cold start take it for a decent ride and let the ECM get some fresh readings and develop a new learned memory.
Thanks for the advise, I did remove the neg cable while I worked but always forgot to remove the positive and ground it to the body OR can you use the Negative terminal ?
I usually leave it off for about 1/2 hour and was under the impression that`s enough time.?.?.?

When I did the plugs I removed both but didn't touch the positive to a ground.
Seemed to have worked both times, I`m always afraid of cooking something.

How long does it take the capacitors to drain once a cable is off ?
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