sealing bellhousing to keep mud off clutch - JeepForum.com

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post #1 of 21 Old 10-06-2010, 10:28 AM Thread Starter
Racing66atv
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sealing bellhousing to keep mud off clutch

Hey guys and girls, like the title said I'm looking for an answer to whether or not it's safe to rtv the bellhousing/starter/slave cylinder/ and the 3 openings on the NSG370 tranny to prevent mud and water from getting in and ruining my throwout bearing/ clutch. Why would I even think about doing this some of you may ask? Well mid august I got my jeep stuck in the mud and burnt my clutch up, So I replaced it with a LUK gold series clutch kit. Last weekend I was on a jeep dice run and got stuck in another mud hole, I wasn't stupid enough this time to burn my clutch up but it got caked with what I thought was mud (actually sand) and ruined my throw out bearing. So now I have to pull the tranny again and replace the TO bearing, as much as I like working on my jeep I don't want to pull the tranny a 3rd time anytime soon. Sorry for the novel but I had to explain myself. Thanks for the replies guys!!!

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post #2 of 21 Old 10-06-2010, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
Racing66atv
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is this a stupid question? no one has even looked at this topic
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post #3 of 21 Old 10-06-2010, 05:56 PM
flatlander757
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Just don't shift when your tranny is submerged and you will be fine.

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post #4 of 21 Old 10-06-2010, 09:06 PM
zjdamien
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If u seal it up tight enough so water can't get in then air will have trouble getting in/out so if ur running so as temp builds up in the bellhousing pressure builds up so when u hit water/mud it will cool rapidly and could actualy pull a vac on the trans seal and rear main (like having a clogged rear end vent) and a very slight chance it could suck fluid out of the trans/engine I wouldn't worry about it the centrifugal force should sling all the mud/water off the clutch pressure plate flywheel as long as the motor is running there's my 2 cents

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post #5 of 21 Old 10-07-2010, 05:51 AM Thread Starter
Racing66atv
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the main thing I'm trying to prevent is throw out bearing damage like I said I just replaced the clutch and got stuck last week. I pulled the trans the clutch is fine but my throwout bearing is destroyed it actually fell apart and all the bearings were in the bottom of my bellhousing. I know there greased fom factory but does anybody grease the hell outta there to bearing? If so what type of grease do you use. And I think I'll just stick to crawling and forget the mud. Thanks for the replies guys
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post #6 of 21 Old 10-07-2010, 05:54 AM Thread Starter
Racing66atv
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and yes I am done using the clutch under water and in mud, somehow I missed that important information
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post #7 of 21 Old 10-07-2010, 06:18 AM
darren2569
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I've been thinking about this too. I've cleaned mine out 3 times this year already. I didnt think about the venting issue though. Would it be possible to seal it up then add a vent hose routed up into the engine compartment somewhere (like for the axles etc)?

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post #8 of 21 Old 10-07-2010, 08:57 PM
DanZ51
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Food for thought:

The old Army M35 Duece & a Half had a bell housing with two threaded plug holes in the bottom. Looking up at it you would see a drain plug in one hole, the other would be open to the clutch. The side the drain plug is normally on is just a holder for the plug and does not go all the way through to the inside of the bell housing. When the vehicle was to ford deep water the driver would remove the drain plug from the holder side and move it to the open side to seal the clutch.

I'm not up on the old military Jeeps (I drove some of the old M151 Mutts but never really worked on them). But I would guess they would have something similar.

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post #9 of 21 Old 10-08-2010, 05:25 PM
chris142
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I wonder if you would be better off with drilling a hole in the bellhousing so that you could wash the dirt/mud out with a hose instead of leaving it in there?
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post #10 of 21 Old 10-09-2010, 01:49 PM
Warlord2
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You can seal the vents and run a vacuum line coming out of them that runs to the intake box. The intake will create a blowing effect and cool the clutch off. Also can use a thin meshing that wont allow rocks and crap in, just need to make sure and clean it after your out of the gunk.
Prolly easier just to not use the clutch when in the mud.

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post #11 of 21 Old 10-09-2010, 02:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Warlord2 View Post
You can seal the vents and run a vacuum line coming out of them that runs to the intake box. The intake will create a blowing effect and cool the clutch off. Also can use a thin meshing that wont allow rocks and crap in, just need to make sure and clean it after your out of the gunk.
Prolly easier just to not use the clutch when in the mud.


Hmmmm....

A line from the intake pulls air in from the clutch..but, you also need make-up air INTO the clutch, or else the intake would just be pulling against a static back pressure....and there would be no flow to carry off the heat.

On the other hand, I've been wheeling manuals in mud/bogs since the mid 70's...and have yet to kill one that way.

I have WITNESSED a lot of people kill the clutches by shifting when they should not though, so I think that's the key....don't shift when the clutch plates are under water.


So - That goes back to it prolly being better to stop shifting when the clutch is submerged.

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post #12 of 21 Old 10-09-2010, 07:53 PM
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good point, been awhile sense I read the article. Maybe there were 2 holes and 2 vacuum lines, one going to the intake and another one that ends somewhere that will pull in cool air so there wont be back pressure. I know its posible sense I was close to doing it a few years back, then I found out it doesnt rain here so it would be pointless

07 JK 2D X model with 6 speeds. Full Traction 3" ultimate lift kit. 315x75x16 Toyo Open Country M/T on Rock crawler procomp rim. Ruby dana44's front sleeved inside/outside C truss and rear with 5.13's gears. Homemade rock guards, rear bumper w/tire carrier, oilpan/tranny skid, evap canister skid, light bar, switch pod. Riddler diff covers, Cobra 75 w/wilson antenna, Polk speakers, 10" sub, 2x Amps, Lightforce 240 drive light, backup lights, rock lights.
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post #13 of 21 Old 01-14-2011, 10:51 AM
wavelength20
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Not sure if the OP question was answered yet. Also, how do you get the mud out if it's already in there - without removing the trans?
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post #14 of 21 Old 01-14-2011, 03:06 PM Thread Starter
Racing66atv
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take the plate off the bottom the tranmission where it meets the engine, and spray water in it. Most of the mud comes out though when submerged in water. If you ever think you have mud stuck up in your bellhousing and your on the trail by fresh water go in until ur trans is submerged and push the clutch in a couple times to clean it out.
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post #15 of 21 Old 01-17-2011, 06:38 AM
mdm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing66atv View Post
take the plate off the bottom the tranmission where it meets the engine,...
That's kind of hard to do when the plate covers the whole back end of the block and is held in place by the transmission. I don't know what year models has this type of plate and which ones don't. The '00 does and I think my wife's '05 did.

Keep in mind that free advice can frequently be worth less than you pay for it.
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