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Unread 06-02-2012, 09:09 PM   #61
danturner266
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And all the rods are .002 as well, lookin' good!!!

p1020101_small.jpg   p1020102_small.jpg  
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Unread 06-02-2012, 11:00 PM   #62
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Last one goin' in!!!
snapshot_00626e42d9e9_20120602195929.jpg  
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:14 AM   #63
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Nice! Did you blow off the degree wheel?


Shawn
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:31 AM   #64
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I just have the bottom end done at this point, going to give my buddy a call to get his stuff and see if I can pick it up from him today. Might get to that this afternoon. I guess I got lucky with the Clevite 77 bearings
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:33 AM   #65
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Yeah, I'm definitely glad you got a good set. Is that rear cam plug installed?
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:36 AM   #66
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Yep, it's in there. Did I get ahead of myself?
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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:40 AM   #67
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Quote:
Originally Posted by danturner266 View Post
Yep, it's in there. Did I get ahead of myself?
Yeah, probably. I understand why though and I probably would have went forward with the assembly, too.

A long breaker bar will be your friend at this point (for accurately spinning the engine over when you time the cam) and just be as careful as you can working that cam into place.


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Unread 06-03-2012, 09:43 AM   #68
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Roger! I'll keep you up-to-date on degreeing... Thanks Shawn.
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Unread 06-03-2012, 04:01 PM   #69
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He said moose drool......
2012-06-03_13-58-49_326.jpg  
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Unread 06-03-2012, 07:42 PM   #70
danturner266
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Dude..... you are missing out....

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f365/...illin-1360475/
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Unread 06-07-2012, 08:28 PM   #71
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Well, I've finally got the tools in hand, and will tackle this step this weekend. Shawn, I got to thinking about being real careful with the cam, can you elaborate?
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Unread 06-08-2012, 10:02 AM   #72
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Good morning, sir, and happy Friday.

That's why I was saying to install it before the crank so you can use your other hand to gently work it back. For some reason, I'm assuming that you didn't do it that way. Is that correct? If the cam still needs to go in, you can bolt the sprocket on it and hold it like a steering wheel and carefully finagle it through the journals.

So what brand is the degree kit and does it use a piston stop or bridge and dial indicator to locate TDC. Is it set up to read off of the pushrod or valve?


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Unread 06-08-2012, 11:11 AM   #73
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I did slide the cam in after I plastigauged the mains just before I assembly lubed the mains back in before doing the rods. The wheel has Mr Gasket on it, and I'll be using a dial indicator and I was planning to read off the edge of the lifter after I use it to find TDC. Sound ok? Am I on track?
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Unread 06-08-2012, 11:54 AM   #74
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Is it a full degree kit or just the wheel? I'm just trying to get a better idea of what you're going to have to do.

My old Crane kit uses a piston stop through the head to find TDC and then has an adjustable arm assembly that threads into a valve cover bolt hole that you attach the dial indicator to which reads off of a pushrod.

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Unread 06-08-2012, 12:24 PM   #75
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The degree wheel is this one:

I'm thinking I like the wheel you used better with the three holes to attach it to the damper. I don't have the heads on yet, so I think it will be easier to find TDC with the piston, was thinking about some type of positive stop though, seen someone use just a plate before with a whole to bolt it down over the piston and a threaded hole to stop the piston.
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