Quantcast reverse tie rod mount for high steer - JeepForum.com
Search  
Sign Up   Today's Posts
User: Pass: Remember?
Advertise Here
Jeep Home Jeep Forum Jeep Classifieds Jeep Registry JeepSpace Jeep Reviews Jeep Gallery Jeep Clubs Jeep Groups Jeep Videos Jeep Events Jeep Articles

Go Back JeepForum.com > General Technical Discussions > Engines & Drivetrain > reverse tie rod mount for high steer

GR8TOPS Introduces the Exogate HD Tire CarrierTruck-Lite's New LED Headlamp SeriesRUBICON EXPRESS Lift Kits and Accessories Available at Bas

Reply
Old 12-18-2006, 11:08 PM   #1
jipjip
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: new milford,CT
Posts: 2,446
reverse tie rod mount for high steer

i was wondering if anybody has heard, or run this setup.
i am going to a front 60 soon, and am installing high steer. i noticed they make high steer arms that put the tie rod behind the diff to completely get it out of the way, which i thaught was a good idea, cause i'm moving the front axle forward 2.5" w/ waggy springs, and was worried the tie rod would hit the drag link at full compression. does anybody think this is a good setup?, pro's/con's??
thanx in advance.

Andy.

__________________
95 yj sahara green w/ spice hard and soft top, bikini top,full steel doors, and 2 piece bestop soft doors,4.0HO,rear 31 spline 8.8 w/ disc brakes,4.10's and lsd,front HP d30 w/ 4.10's and aussie front locker,ax15,np231j w/ jb conversions ss sye, tom woods custom cv d/s,RE 4.5xd,33" trxus m/t's.
1" bl,and ramsey winch on their way.
jipjip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2006, 05:32 PM   #2
BESRK
GROUND POUNDER
 
BESRK's Avatar
1980 CJ5 
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Newport News, VA
Posts: 11,180
I think it can be a good setup. Once you get to that level of modification it's really a case by case basis. I would probably leave the box where it's at, move the axle forward and start measuring. Check measurements at full droop and full compression to make sure nothing will contact the pitman arm/steering box during suspension cycling. I think you'll have to move the axle farther forward than 2 inches in order to connect a reasonable pitman arm to reverse steering arms. Might be easier to just move the steering box forward/upward to make it fit. Or go with shorter steering arms and a shorter pitman arm. If you're moving the axle forward 2.5" you could shorten each by a little over 1" and have the same clearance.. and steering ratio.

Other option.... full hydro steering. Probably wouldn't use it on a street driven rig but it's awesome on the trail with big meats.
__________________
'80 CJ5 w/AMC360, T176, D44 w/Detroit 3.73s, RE 4" YJ lift and 35s..

Ground Pounder Fab


Lower 2

Guardrail

Down Schoolbus

Slickrock Tellico

Save

Crozet

More Crozet
BESRK is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2006, 06:24 PM   #3
jipjip
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: new milford,CT
Posts: 2,446
Quote:
Originally Posted by BESRK
I think it can be a good setup. Once you get to that level of modification it's really a case by case basis. I would probably leave the box where it's at, move the axle forward and start measuring. Check measurements at full droop and full compression to make sure nothing will contact the pitman arm/steering box during suspension cycling. I think you'll have to move the axle farther forward than 2 inches in order to connect a reasonable pitman arm to reverse steering arms. Might be easier to just move the steering box forward/upward to make it fit. Or go with shorter steering arms and a shorter pitman arm. If you're moving the axle forward 2.5" you could shorten each by a little over 1" and have the same clearance.. and steering ratio.

Other option.... full hydro steering. Probably wouldn't use it on a street driven rig but it's awesome on the trail with big meats.
i will be driving this on the road sometimes. so i was going to go hydro assist at some point. but full hydro is deffinately out. i was hoping to keep the box where it is stock, as i'm not very good at fab work. shortening the pitman arm, and steering arms sounds like a good idea, maybe i could get some custom arms made up a little shorter than usual, and the same w/ the pitman arm.
i just wondered if it would be easier to just put the tie rod behind and out of the way, and if i did this, if there would be any good/bad things about doing it this way.
thanx for the response.
__________________
95 yj sahara green w/ spice hard and soft top, bikini top,full steel doors, and 2 piece bestop soft doors,4.0HO,rear 31 spline 8.8 w/ disc brakes,4.10's and lsd,front HP d30 w/ 4.10's and aussie front locker,ax15,np231j w/ jb conversions ss sye, tom woods custom cv d/s,RE 4.5xd,33" trxus m/t's.
1" bl,and ramsey winch on their way.
jipjip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-19-2006, 11:15 PM   #4
jipjip
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: new milford,CT
Posts: 2,446
anybody else have experience w/ this setup???
__________________
95 yj sahara green w/ spice hard and soft top, bikini top,full steel doors, and 2 piece bestop soft doors,4.0HO,rear 31 spline 8.8 w/ disc brakes,4.10's and lsd,front HP d30 w/ 4.10's and aussie front locker,ax15,np231j w/ jb conversions ss sye, tom woods custom cv d/s,RE 4.5xd,33" trxus m/t's.
1" bl,and ramsey winch on their way.
jipjip is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-20-2006, 10:30 AM   #5
jason m
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: holland mass USA
Posts: 2,086
i think if you moved the box back to gain clearance for the tie rod the box might interfear with the center section of the axle. i am going buy what i see on my jeep and theres not alot of room on the up travel if i had the box moved farther back. i have high steer ( posion custiom's arms ) and i am runing the box in the stock position, granted i am not runining waggey springs just 4'' BDS springs. i never hit my tie rod or my drag link never interfear with the axle.

andy if you can hoast the pictures send me your E-mail address and i will send you some of my set -up. remeber your going to be using a ford dana 60 and they have the thinest knuckle's of all the three 60's ( GM, dodge and ford ) so runing hydro assist will put alot of pressure on the thin web of the knuckle, let alone runing full hydro. so unless you upgrade the knuckle area or swap them for chevy, or dodge they could brake if your high steer is not right. posion custom told me when i got my arms to run grade 5 bolts, i ask why not grade 8 they said it could brake the knuckle bofore sheering the bolts. i only had experence with what i have so i cant comment on another style of high steer, but i can show you how i re-enforced my OEM ford knuckle's buy welding soma 3/8 T-1 to them, jason.
jason m is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply
Thread Tools


Suggested Threads




Glock Forum



Jeep, Wrangler, Cherokee, Grand Cherokee, and other models are copyrighted and trademarked to Jeep/Chrysler Corporation. JeepForum.com is not in any way associated with Jeep or the Chrysler Corp.

Copyright © Group Builder, Inc - All Rights Reserved