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| #1 | |||
Registered User | Replacing pinion seal NEED INFO!
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| #2 | |
Registered User | bump....anyone? Still on the fence about getting into this job ![]() |
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| #3 | |
XJ on 37's Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: missouri via blackpool,lancs. Posts: 7,075 | Here is the cheating way of doing the seal. Use a breaker bar and count how many turns it takes to remove the nut from start to finish. Replace the seal. Start the pinion nut and rotate it the same number of turns as you had to do to remove it. Not as accurate as resetting the preload etc, but is 99% of the time near enough. This method obviously cannot be used with an impact gun, so that is out anyways. Do not "crank the hell out of it" as this will really mess up your preload on most axles. Martin __________________ 1998 XJ on 37's.JK Rubi axles with chromo shafts and ctm's, 4:1 transfer case, etc etc etc.The Cherylkee.... 1998 Range Rover 4.6 HSE.....troop transport for the kids n dogs. 2003+2004 honda aquatrax turbo/non turbo. family fun when wheeling is out! 4.3/700r4/new frame buildup (YJ).... http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/swap-offically-underway-324622/ |
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| #4 | |
Senior Member | I did the backyard mechanic way 91k miles ago, I think it's fine Just tight is fine. |
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| #5 | |
Registered User | Thanks guys, sounds like its not a bad job at all. Some guys say you have to replace the pinion nut because its self locking? I'm assuming thats the correct way to do it but you can get away with the old one? Also assuming the crush sleeve can be left alone? Have to take care of this soon I leave small puddles everywhere i park and I'm tired of topping it off ![]() |
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| #6 | |
Registered User | spnkr94, There is the correct way and then the "correct way." I've done it both ways without problems. Most manuals say to get a new pinion nut & crush sleeve when taking them apart. Then tighten to spec with an inch/lbs torque wrench. You'll be fine if you follow the "correct way" that has been mentioned.
If you're worried about the "used" nut backing off, you can put some red loc-tite on it. Few helpful hints:
__________________ Few men during their lifetime comes anywhere near exhausting the resources dwelling within them. There are deep wells of strength that are never used. -Richard E. Byrd |
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| #7 | |
Registered User | It is nearly impossible to overtorque the pinion nut on that axle if you got to 250 lbs it will be fine. There is no difference in pinion bearing preload from 180 lbs to 250 lbs that is one of the reason for the shims. This is a very very very simple job I know that the book says 210 lbs and that would be best if you have to do it then put locktite on a new nut and torque the hell out of it until it feels like 200 pounds and I can pretty much promise you it will be fine. I have rebuilt quite a few rear ends there is nothing to be afraid of with just a pinion seal. the only time super proper torque is super important is when you have a crush sleeve. |
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| #8 | |
Registered User | Ok thanks guys. I'm def going to do it myself and save some $$, I always worry about a job that turns out to be simple. |
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| #9 | ||
Registered User | Quote:
__________________ "Our lady of blessed acceleration don't fail me now" | |
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