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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:27 AM   #1
flatlander757
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Regearing of MarineJRM's XJ D44

Anyways I promised another D44 regearing thread(the first one is Regearing of Jake92321's D44 in TJ Tech), so here it is...

This D44 belongs to JF member MarineJRM, it will be going under his XJ on 35s.

Starting out w/ 3.55 gears and an open carrier, it's getting:

-Yukon 4.56 gears
-Yukon Master install kit
-Yukon Grizzly locker(very cool looking, it's a full case locker like a Detroit)

I also ended up installing new wheel bearings/seals/lock collars, but that is already covered in depth at Jeep TJ Web Site of Stu Olson - N7QJP so I'm not going to bother with that here. Just focusing on the gear setup aspect of this.

I took some notes this time which may be of help to some of you, here are some nut/bolt sizes you'll need to tear everything down:

-Bearing cap bolts: 3/4"
-Ring gear bolts: 11/16"(there are two different sized ring gear bolts for D44s, this may not apply to all D44s)
-Diff cover bolts: 1/2"
-Axle shaft bearing retainer plate nuts: 9/16"
-Pinion nut: 1-1/8"

You'll need various wrenches/ratchets/sockets for the above. Here are the "special tools" which you will (likely)absolutely need if you want your gear setup to be accurate and trust it:

-PATIENCE!!!!
-Magnetic base dial indicator(accurate to 0.001")
-in-lb beam style or dial-indicating torque wrench(for measuring pinion preload)
-Torque wrenches capable of 200(pinion nut), 80(carrier caps), 60(ring gear bolts), and 25(diff cover) ft lbs.
-Gear marking paint/brush(included if you're installing a master install kit from Yukon)
-Set up pinion RACE, it's machined on the outside so pinion depth changes can be easily made without screwing up your shims trying to change them... they're maybe $20 or so, not worth it to not have IMO. You -could- knock the old one out and hone it down but you're installing new bearings, get a new setup race as well so it's as close to accurate as possible.
-A good brass punch... use brass since it won't damage anything or marr up any bearing surfaces.

I'll recommend that you have one of the following, or both or else you'll have a hell of a time getting backlash and carrier preload set up:

-Set up carrier bearings. These are honed down on the inside so you can change your carrier shims easily. The only problem is that when you remove them and install the final bearings, it is pretty likely your backlash setting will get thrown off. You can either change your pinion depth slightly(should be a large change, I did this on Jake92321's D44) or use a nice bearing puller to remove them without damaging anything for making changes.
-Yukon carrier/pinion bearing puller. I got one and it's awesome, I could fine-tune the backlash without having to redo the pinion depth to compromise the pattern, was also good when I added the preload shims.

So anyways, with those bases covered, here is how this axle went:

Started out with the axle on stands



Undo the shaft bearing retainer plate nuts



Slide the axle out like so to get it out of the carrier



Then pull the diff cover and drain the fluid... you should see something like this



Mark the bearing caps... they can only go on in one orientation... flip them or swap them and you are asking for trouble. They are precisely machined from the factory so that the carrier races are properly preloaded evenly all the way around. I use a chisel and mark a "|" on the top of the left cap and "||" on the top of the right cap. No way for it to wipe off or mix them up.





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Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:28 AM   #2
flatlander757
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I decided to make it easy on myself this time and I put the new carrier in the freezer overnight. Metal shrinks when cold and expands when it gets hot... so by doing this the new ring gear should just about drop right onto the carrier. You don't want to pull it down w/ the bolts... If you must then do it EXTREMELY slowly in a criss cross pattern. I'm talking no more than 1/4 turn each time. You don't want to warp the ring gear. If you like you can put the ring gear in an oven at 250-300 degrees to help this even more. I chose not to do so... at my parents' house my mom was busy making cookies. Didn't want them tasting like metal



I just had to give it a slight OOMPH to get the ring gear all the way down...



I started all the bolts by hand and finger-tightened them, then sat the carrier/ring gear out in the sun so that everything could get back to ambient temperature.

While that's going on, go back to the diff assembly...

If you think you may be selling your old gears, now is the time to take a gear pattern as that may help the future owner of your old gears. Then proceed to remove the carrier bearing cap bolts:





Now pull the bearing caps and set them aside... you may need some slightly prying to rock them sideways to get them out. It is different for every differential.



Now pull the carrier out... you can use any form of prying/hammering/use of a slide hammer/stuff rags between the R/P and turn the pinion to force the carrier out/place an 11/16" wrench on one of the ring gear bolts while turning the pinion so the wrench leverages itself against the case/etc etc etc. Just don't damage the carrier race journals or destroy anything you may want to sell/reuse.

Should be looking at this in the diff:



Remove the pinion nut now... an impact is nice to have for removing this



If you're lucky your pinion yoke will slide right off, if not a 2 jaw puller is nice to have to get it off. You -could- smack the back of it with a hammer but be careful by doing this.



These things should come out in this order: pinion nut, pinion nut washer, pinion yoke



And the pinion will look like this



At this point you'll probably find that the outter pinion bearing is a slight to very firm interference fit to the pinion, keeping you from just plain pulling the pinion out of the diff. I put the old pinion nut back on the pinion(flush w/ the end) and smack it with a hammer. Don't go too crazy, don't want to distort anything... you still need to get the nut off to remove everything.

The pinion seal will need to be removed before you can take out the outter pinion bearing(it will be stuck between the housing and seal). My seal puller just kept tearing up the seal... so I used my brass punch to just hit the bearing through from the inside out(forcing the seal out with it)... I forgot to take pics of this.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:29 AM   #3
flatlander757
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Now take that punch and knock out the outter pinion race(from inside out) like this:





And knock the inner race from outside in:




I took this pic for you guys to see how it all goes together when assembled(minus pinion yoke):



I cleaned up the pinion seal surface with a razor blade, get all the old seal RTV stuff off.



Now that you have a bare housing, use a TON of brake clean(or something equivalent) to get it all clean and dry and free of crap and gear oil.



At this point I measured the shims that were under the OLD pinion race... I got 0.044" thickness.

I then took the NEW -outter- pinion race and knocked it in w/ my race driver kit and a hammer:



I also chose to press the new inner pinion bearing onto the pinion at this time... having a 20t press is nice



aaaand it's full seated:



NOTE: There were no baffles or oil slingers under the old inner pinion bearing so the same thing goes on the new one... nothing.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:30 AM   #4
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At this point with the pinion ready, I dropped a stack of 0.041" worth of pinion preload shims into the housing, followed by my INNER PINION SETUP RACE. This will make depth changes easier/quicker. Why 0.041? Jake's axle was 0.044" stock as well and ended up needing 0.041" for final setup... Figured it was worth a shot.

And now drop the pinion in:

Then on the other side you will slide on your outter pinion bearing, followed by your pinion yoke, then your pinion nut washer, then your OLD pinion nut... don't use the new one until the VERY end! Only tighten it enough to get your pinion slightly preloaded... use your in-lb torque wrench for about 15-20in lbs. DO NOT use an impact for this... you have NO pinion preload shims in there so you have the potential to crunch the bearings if overtorqued. I don't do the pinion preload shims until the very end since it will change with any pinion depth changes(which aren't known for sure yet).


------
Now at this point I grabbed the new carrier/ring gear out of the sun. I cleaned the threads of every new ring gear bolt(brake clean and a rag) and applied red threadlocker compound to the ring gear bolts, then torqued in a criss-cross pattern to 60ft lbs. I throw out the generic stuff provided in the gear install kit and use Loctite brand. My personal preference.
------

Now since this is a new carrier, I just grabbed some shims and threw them under the SETUP carrier bearings. Then dropped the carrier in the housing and wiggled the carrier side to side. If it's real loose you won't even need to measure the free play, just pull it right back out and add some more. You want it to drop right in for the most part but not be hard to pull back out(no free play but not much if any preload to make changes easy).
First trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.019" shims
-R carrier: 0.015" shims
=Lots of carrier play(no gauge needed to measure this)
Second trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.019" shims
-R carrier: 0.027" shims
=Still lots of side to side play
Third trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.019" shims
-R carrier: 0.058" shims
=All free play was eliminated and no side to side play. I got lucky not having to really fiddle around with the shims.
If you notice I put most of the shims on the right side... A backlash reading that is too large is more useful than one that is zero(no backlash)... it could be the gears keeping it from moving fully to the right, not the shims.
Once you think you have all the free play eliminated, put the bearing caps on(just cinch them down) and use your dial indicator like this to ensure there is none:

I zeroed my gauge and it doesn't move side to side at all with the bearing caps snugged down.

I then set up the dial indicator to read backlash with the current shims in there(0.019" left and 0.058" right):


I got 0.020" B/L.

So as a result I had to move the carrier to the right... so pulled the caps off and removed the carrier and switched some shims from right to left for this trial:
Fourth trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.031" shims
-R carrier: 0.046" shims
= 0.013" B/L
More from right to left...
Fifth trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.043" shims
-R carrier: 0.036" shims
= 0.004" B/L
Went a little too far, gotta move some from left to right...

Sixth trial w/ 0.041" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.037" shims
-R carrier: 0.041" shims
= 0.006" B/L

So now we get to take a gear pattern...
paint the gears all pretty and evenly



And here's what we got:



It seems the pinion was just a LITTLE too far away from the ring gear... so we need to ADD pinion depth shims.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:31 AM   #5
flatlander757
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So I decided to try 0.044" pinion depth... I carefully knocked out the setup pinion race, and played w/ the pinion depth shims to achieve 0.044" total.

First trial w/ 0.044" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.032" shims
-R carrier: 0.047" shims
= 0.011" B/L

Gotta move some shims from right to left...

Second trial w/ 0.044" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.042" shims
-R carrier: 0.037" shims
= 0.001" B/L

Too tight... gotta go back the other way some...

Third trial w/ 0.044" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.038" shims
-R carrier: 0.041" shims
= 0.004" B/L

So close... a little more...

Fourth trial w/ 0.044" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.037" shims
-R carrier: 0.042" shims
= 0.007" B/L

Time for another gear pattern:



Forgot to take a pic of the coast side(doh). But this time it's too close to the ring gear... so since the last pattern(0.041") was closer, I had to choose 0.042 or 0.043... I went w/ 0.042" for the next pinion depth attempt...

Again knock out the setup race and change the pinion depth shims...

First trial w/ 0.042" pinion depth:
-L carrier: 0.037" shims
-R carrier: 0.042" shims
= 0.008" B/L

First try! Awesomeness!





And IMO that pattern looks great.

So now I removed the setup pinion race and installed the FINAL pinion race... again using my awesome new bearing race driver. Then drop in the pinion:



Now you get to play w/ pinion bearing preload... I basically just start somewhere randomly and record the results and make adjustments from there.

I started with a shim stack of 0.054" worth of pinion preload shims... these go on the pinion BEFORE you put the outter pinion bearing on. I'm sorry but forgot to get a pic of this. To check preload you put the shims on, then the outter pinion bearing, then the pinion yoke, then the pinion nut washer, then the OLD pinion nut. As you are tightening it down... if the pinion gets extremely tight(over spec) then STOP... you need to add shims.

This was the case for me... so I pulled the nut/washer/yoke/outter bearing off and changed the shims to a stack of 0.080" worth of preload shims.

This was too much preload shims... the result was that the nut was getting very tight at 200ft lbs but the pinion had nowhere near enough preload(0 in lbs). So I had to take some shims out.

Next try was 0.070" shims...

This netted me 18-20 in lbs of rotating torque. Fantastic!
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:31 AM   #6
flatlander757
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At this point I pulled the old pinion nut/washer/yoke and added the new oil slinger which this axle requires... it goes between the yoke and outter pinion bearing. This will have no effect on pinion preload.


I now installed the pinion seal, pinion yoke, pinion nut washer, and the NEW pinion nut torqued to 200 ft lbs...

I now pulled the setup carrier bearings off and laid the shim stacks aside(don't get them mixed up!)...

I pressed on the final carrier bearings(no preload added yet... you'll see why in a minute):

And as I expected(much like what happened w/ Jakes axle)... the backlash moved...
With the final bearings and races all in(minus preload) I was looking at 0.002" B/L.
It needs adjusted.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 10:33 AM   #7
flatlander757
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Now is when the Yukon puller comes in handy...
Put the race on the bearing:

Put the plug in the carrier(make sure it's not pressing on the splines! Should be on the shoulder of the carrier):

Put the puller body over the plug and put the lower disc all the way against the race:

Put one of the clamshell halves on:

Then thread the upper disc up... take all the play out of the bearing/clamshell half/puller assembly:

And the other half on:

Slide the retainer ring down and cinch down the bolt to keep it from coming off:

And use a 36mm socket on a 1/2" impact to tighten the puller... you need to coat the threads of the puller in anti-sieze every time you use it because they're under a LOT of force.

And here's a little video of it in action:

It's awesome to have

So that made final shim changes awesome between the puller and my press. Here is what I went through to dial in everything:

For the final bearings all pressed on and 0.042" pinion depth shims
First trial:
-L carrier: 0.035" shims
-R carrier: 0.044" shims
= 0.005" B/L... Yukon spec is 6-10 thousandths, OEM is 5-8. I figured I'd try to get a little more from it.
Second trial:
-L carrier: 0.034" shims
-R carrier: 0.045" shims
= still 0.005" B/L. Doh!
Third trial:
-L carrier: 0.032" shims
-R carrier: 0.047" shims
= 0.008" B/L. That's where we want it

So then I had to add the preload to the carrier. I added one 0.005" shim to EACH side(0.010" total)...
-L carrier: 0.037" shims
-R carrier: 0.052" shims
= Backlash went up to 0.009" which is just barely out of OEM spec and still in Yukon spec.

Note that with the final preload added, it should require quite a bit of persuasion w/ a BFH(soft face dead blow hammer... a big F-n one ) to fully seat the carrier. If it drops right in easily then you risk the bearings destroying themselves due to lack of preload.

So now I fully torqued down the carrier bearing caps to 80 ft lbs...

And my awesome luck made the backlash jump to 0.011" arg!
So I pried the carrier back out of the housing, and switched a few shims around...
L carrier: 0.035" shims
R carrier: 0.054" shims
= This gave me 0.008" B/L... then I rechecked the gear pattern:


The pattern is centered from face to flank so that is what is important. It's pretty hard to aim for centered from heel to toe as well... this pattern is accaptable accord to Yukon's install manual as well.
Everything is now torqued to spec and all the setup bearings are gone so the gears are good to go.
I changed the bearings and seals on the shafts as well:

Resealed the diff:

And that's it!

Here are the notes I took for anybody interested:


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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 01:36 PM   #8
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Unread 03-16-2010, 03:49 PM   #9
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^^X2 the best gear setup thread I have ever read.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 05:43 PM   #10
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Thanks Again Tony! This axle should be a complete monster with the new locker and gears. Anyone in the Tidewater area looking to regear I highly advise you contact Tony and see if he has room to fit you into regearing your stuff. I guarantee that hardly any of the places in this area are near as thorough as he is.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 05:47 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MarineJRM View Post
Thanks Again Tony! This axle should be a complete monster with the new locker and gears. Anyone in the Tidewater area looking to regear I highly advise you contact Tony and see if he has room to fit you into regearing your stuff. I guarantee that hardly any of the places in this area are near as thorough as he is.
No problem John

When we regear the front you're welcome to stick around and watch/learn if you like.

That goes for anyone else whose axle I regear.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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Unread 03-16-2010, 08:19 PM   #12
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Very good job, very thorough... Even though you show how painstaking it can be you make it look like much less difficult of a job.
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Unread 03-17-2010, 09:26 AM   #13
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BR Jeep, you do know that when you bump a thread, it drops back down if you delete you message right?


Consider this his bump.
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Unread 03-19-2010, 12:29 AM   #14
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That is quite possibly the most beautiful race/bearing installer i have ever seen. Also i was surprised how well that harbor freight press worked after i bought it. I get a big grin every time i use my clam shell bearing puller.

Good read and good stuff.
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Unread 03-19-2010, 03:05 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JohndKc View Post
That is quite possibly the most beautiful race/bearing installer i have ever seen. Also i was surprised how well that harbor freight press worked after i bought it. I get a big grin every time i use my clam shell bearing puller.

Good read and good stuff.
It's $30 at HF
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2006 Sport
Being able to make vroom vroom noises in Tonys Jeep was the highlight of my life.
Currently Jeepless.
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