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Unread 10-05-2013, 04:08 PM   #1
chrisazm
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Rear pinion washer crushed?

I was replacing my rear pinion seal and tightened the nut. I tightened to 150 ft lbs (which was tighter than it was) and that was all I could do by hand. The manual I have says 216 ft lbs is min torque so I gave it a little more with my impact wrench. How can I tell if I crushed the spacer or not without taking everything apart? I'm concerned because the pinion had a little rotational play before but doesn't now.
2005 Wrangler x with Dana 35.

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Unread 10-05-2013, 10:51 PM   #2
rchase559
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Did you replace the crush sleeve while you were in there? If not and you crushed it more than it was, you'll be pulling the carrier to replace the crush sleeve and reset the preload.
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Unread 10-05-2013, 11:51 PM   #3
chrisazm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rchase559
Did you replace the crush sleeve while you were in there? If not and you crushed it more than it was, you'll be pulling the carrier to replace the crush sleeve and reset the preload.
I only turned the nut an extra 1/4 turn at the most. Is that enough to cause a problem? What are the possible hazards of leaving it as-is?
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Unread 10-07-2013, 05:40 AM   #4
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When working on crush sleeve diffs, your not interested in then pinion nut torque, but the bearing preload instead. This is sometimes difficult or impossible to obtain with a used crush sleeve since it is already collapsed to the approximate width.
You will want to rotate the yoke by hand. Look for a light drag (preload) from the pinion bearings. Don't confuse preload drag with the axles rotating. Drop the front and rotate it if you need a reference. If the yoke is hard to turn or the preload feels heavy, you will have to replace it and start again.
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Unread 10-07-2013, 07:31 AM   #5
Evildriver-3
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broken in should be around 10/14" lbs of drag for pre-load
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Unread 10-08-2013, 10:33 AM   #6
chrisazm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
When working on crush sleeve diffs, your not interested in then pinion nut torque, but the bearing preload instead. This is sometimes difficult or impossible to obtain with a used crush sleeve since it is already collapsed to the approximate width. You will want to rotate the yoke by hand. Look for a light drag (preload) from the pinion bearings. Don't confuse preload drag with the axles rotating. Drop the front and rotate it if you need a reference. If the yoke is hard to turn or the preload feels heavy, you will have to replace it and start again.
That is great advice. I wish repair manuals had that type of wisdom. I will compare and see how it feels. Thank you so much!
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Unread 10-08-2013, 04:21 PM   #7
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chrisazm View Post
That is great advice. I wish repair manuals had that type of wisdom. I will compare and see how it feels. Thank you so much!
I just reread my statement and though I better clarify:
The pinion nut MUST be tight!
What you can't do is tighten the nut (close to the stated pre-load is acceptable for me and my rigs), then if the pre-load is too tight, back it off again. If that is the case, then your going to have to replace the crush sleeve.
Torque is a moot point when using a new sleeve since your simply crushing it till you get the desired preload, then stopping.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 09:00 AM   #8
JeeperDon
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And, you have to do the pre-load test with the carrier removed. If you think you just jumped under the Jeep to fix a pinion seal leak, and decided to hunker the nut down a bit... nope. Fixing pinion play issues is not part of a 20 minute seal swap project.
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Unread 10-09-2013, 10:36 PM   #9
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Originally Posted by JeeperDon View Post
And, you have to do the pre-load test with the carrier removed. If you think you just jumped under the Jeep to fix a pinion seal leak, and decided to hunker the nut down a bit... nope. Fixing pinion play issues is not part of a 20 minute seal swap project.
I don't necessarily agree with this. I have successfully replaced many crush sleeves with the carrier installed. However, I have had some experience with diffs and maybe am taking that for granted.
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Unread 10-10-2013, 08:08 AM   #10
JeeperDon
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000 View Post
I don't necessarily agree with this. I have successfully replaced many crush sleeves with the carrier installed. However, I have had some experience with diffs and maybe am taking that for granted.
Not sure why you posted this, seems just to be contrary. You know what I said is the industry standard documented way to do the work, the way any inexperienced person should do the job. I wouldn't suggest to a 'never worked on an axle before' person that taking shortcuts with an axle is common place.

Chrisazm... pull the carrier to do the pre-load work. If that's to daunting, and it's no shame to say it is, take it to JeepDaddy.
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Unread 10-11-2013, 09:29 AM   #11
Evildriver-3
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Not sure how you would set 6 to 8" lbs with the carrier in place, i wouldn't even attempt that guess and i do diffs daily
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Unread 10-12-2013, 07:58 PM   #12
0125JeepGuy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepdaddy2000
When working on crush sleeve diffs, your not interested in then pinion nut torque, but the bearing preload instead. This is sometimes difficult or impossible to obtain with a used crush sleeve since it is already collapsed to the approximate width. You will want to rotate the yoke by hand. Look for a light drag (preload) from the pinion bearings. Don't confuse preload drag with the axles rotating. Drop the front and rotate it if you need a reference. If the yoke is hard to turn or the preload feels heavy, you will have to replace it and start again.
just wondering, what are the risks of just putting a yoke back on with a electric impact wrench and not replacing the crush sleve?
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Unread 10-12-2013, 08:57 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by 0125JeepGuy View Post
just wondering, what are the risks of just putting a yoke back on with a electric impact wrench and not replacing the crush sleve?
There is too loose, right, and too tight. The badness if not right is it will bugger the pinion bearings in less miles.
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Unread 10-14-2013, 11:12 PM   #14
trav278
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Do it right the first time so you aren't standing on the side of the road waiting on a wrecker. Pull the carrier and replace the crush sleeve. I never reuse one even though it is possible to place shims in front of them I don't like it. After installing your new crush sleeve tighten the nut in increments. Rotate the pinion as soon as you begin to feel a slight drag you know you are getting close. The very best tool you could get is a beam style torque wrench. Click types wont work. With the beam style torque wrench you slowly rotate the pinion nut and read the beam indicator to see exactly what your pre load is. Preload is very important and I would never recommend relying on a rear end that is not to spec.
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Unread 10-15-2013, 08:22 AM   #15
Evildriver-3
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Actually use a meter or dial, the shortest you can afford , and you need to make a even full revolution and watch the meter or dial for the running load, not the load off start
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