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Unread 03-24-2002, 10:38 PM   #1
evilpsych
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Rear Main Oil seal Replacement...

ok guys.. went muddin today.. after the carnage and subsequent thorough car washing, i notice that a leak has started from my rear main seal. When i bought the jeep, i noticed a little bit of weep, but now it's a steady drip drip drip every 30 seconds or so. How big of a job is it to replace the rear main seal? Do i have to remove the tranny, oil pan, etc just to get to it? please help.. I dont want to end up spending all that hard earned cash that i have saved up for locker and lift towards a retarded repair shop's overpriced bill...

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Unread 03-25-2002, 12:04 AM   #2
jeepdaddy2000
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First are you sure that it's the rear main? Some times the rear intake gasket leaks and the oil leaks down the back of the block. Changing the rear main isn't bad.Drop the pan,rear main cap,and carefully roll out the old seal(don't nick the crank seal surface).Lube the new neopreme seal and roll the upper seal between the crank and the block. Remove the lower seal from the main cap.If the old seal is a rope, then you need to remove the retaining pin inside the seal groove before you install the neopreme replacement seal. reinstall the cap and torque. replace the pan and you are done.Be sure to clean the pan and pump pick up screen while you are in there.
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Unread 03-25-2002, 12:17 AM   #3
evilpsych
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well it's odd that that would leak after going through mud. why would that happen? wasnt very deep (although i did get a bit in the engine compartment)
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Awwwwwwwwwwww... So he wants to go OFF-ROAD does he????

'93 YJ, 4.0, K&N filter, Borla Header, Borla Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, 3 Core Radiator, D-Rings, TruckNuts, MSD 6A, LockRite Locker in D30, Magnecors, Kickass Stereo, 1" daystar, 31" BFG AT's, Homemade Rocker Guards and Front/Rear air-tank bumpers with tire carrier, 15x8 AR-767 4"BS, BDS 3.5 HD lift, AMA A/C Kit, York OBA, GoFerIt 1" MML, 8,000lb HF/MM Winch, Magellan MAP 330 GPS, PRO-2067 500ch. Scanner, oh, and a CB capable of talking to SATURN!

"The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Succeed is for Good Men to Do Nothing." - Edmund Burke
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Unread 03-25-2002, 10:27 AM   #4
4wheeler4CJ
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You will likely have to jack the engine out of the (driver side?) motor mount to get the pan out. Do a search on this subject, and you will find a post from about 2 weeks ago tackling this subject. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

Also, when sliding the new rubber seal in place (upper half), be VERY CAREFUL not to knick it on the sharp edges of the groove while you slip it in, you will see what I mean. If you do knick it, buy a new seal, don't take a chance at that point trying to use it hoping it won't leak. You'd kick yourself later! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
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Unread 03-25-2002, 04:58 PM   #5
evilpsych
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Ok.. here's something bizarre.. after spending awhile at a car wash shootin it w/ soap spray to clean off the underside.. the leak stopped.. Seems that the caked mud drew out the oil.. why would this be? Went out today driving and it didnt leak a bit.. It's getting to be time for an oil change.. so I'll do it now and add a can of that "gasket rejuvenator" stuff.. hopefully it's just a isolated incident.. here's what i've done so far after this mudding incident.. remind me of anything else i'm missing..

hosed off entire underbody, re-lubed u-joints on driveshafts, pulled drum brake housings and cleaned those out pretty well (full of grit and mud) hosed out the engine compartment and radiator (damn that thing was mud-filled) then let it idle to dry out the electrical stuff, anything else I'm forgetting besides a diff oil replacement?
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Awwwwwwwwwwww... So he wants to go OFF-ROAD does he????

'93 YJ, 4.0, K&N filter, Borla Header, Borla Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, 3 Core Radiator, D-Rings, TruckNuts, MSD 6A, LockRite Locker in D30, Magnecors, Kickass Stereo, 1" daystar, 31" BFG AT's, Homemade Rocker Guards and Front/Rear air-tank bumpers with tire carrier, 15x8 AR-767 4"BS, BDS 3.5 HD lift, AMA A/C Kit, York OBA, GoFerIt 1" MML, 8,000lb HF/MM Winch, Magellan MAP 330 GPS, PRO-2067 500ch. Scanner, oh, and a CB capable of talking to SATURN!

"The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Succeed is for Good Men to Do Nothing." - Edmund Burke
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Unread 03-25-2002, 05:55 PM   #6
4wheeler4CJ
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DON'T USE ANY "GASKET REJUVENATOR" PRODUCTS! THEY SHOULD ALL BE BANNED OR RELABELED "GASKET DESTROYERS"!

Seriously, they are junk products and will destroy all of your gaskets if you pour that in. All they do is temporarily cause all of your gaskets to swell up, which can make a leaky gasket stop leaking....TEMPORARILY! Long-term (and not really so long-term, can happen fairly quickly!), the chemicals in the products destroy your gasket material, making gasket leaks even worse, and destroying all of your non-leaking gaskets in the process! Pretty soon, you will find yourself ripping your entire engine apart to replace every gasket.

The same is true for EVERY product claiming to "restore" gaskets and "stop leaks". The only cure for a leaky gasket is gasket replacement. There is no easy way out.

If your "leak" stopped, leave well-enough alone and don't look a gift horse in the mouth, LOL! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />

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Unread 03-25-2002, 06:15 PM   #7
evilpsych
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hahaha ok ok ok .. gotcha.. I'm getting ready to change the oil anyway and thought I might do something to try and correct it. the leak possibly had to do with the fact that I was also running full synthetic oil in a vehicle w. 126k miles. Switching to a blend of syn/dino juice this time..
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Awwwwwwwwwwww... So he wants to go OFF-ROAD does he????

'93 YJ, 4.0, K&N filter, Borla Header, Borla Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, 3 Core Radiator, D-Rings, TruckNuts, MSD 6A, LockRite Locker in D30, Magnecors, Kickass Stereo, 1" daystar, 31" BFG AT's, Homemade Rocker Guards and Front/Rear air-tank bumpers with tire carrier, 15x8 AR-767 4"BS, BDS 3.5 HD lift, AMA A/C Kit, York OBA, GoFerIt 1" MML, 8,000lb HF/MM Winch, Magellan MAP 330 GPS, PRO-2067 500ch. Scanner, oh, and a CB capable of talking to SATURN!

"The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Succeed is for Good Men to Do Nothing." - Edmund Burke
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Unread 03-25-2002, 06:25 PM   #8
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4wheeler4CJ is right, that stuff is only a temporary fix. Also consider the fact that you are displacing oil when you put that stuff in the crankcase, and nothing lubes your engine as well as oil. The only fix for a leaking seal is replacement. If your oil leak has fixed itself, just leave it alone, and hope it doesn't start again.
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Unread 03-25-2002, 06:30 PM   #9
evilpsych
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hrmm..... oh well.. guess i'll just change the oil, and perhaps replace the seal as part of its 150k regular preventative maintenance, provided it doesn't come back..
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Awwwwwwwwwwww... So he wants to go OFF-ROAD does he????

'93 YJ, 4.0, K&N filter, Borla Header, Borla Cat-Back, Hi-Flo Cat, 3 Core Radiator, D-Rings, TruckNuts, MSD 6A, LockRite Locker in D30, Magnecors, Kickass Stereo, 1" daystar, 31" BFG AT's, Homemade Rocker Guards and Front/Rear air-tank bumpers with tire carrier, 15x8 AR-767 4"BS, BDS 3.5 HD lift, AMA A/C Kit, York OBA, GoFerIt 1" MML, 8,000lb HF/MM Winch, Magellan MAP 330 GPS, PRO-2067 500ch. Scanner, oh, and a CB capable of talking to SATURN!

"The Only Thing Necessary for Evil to Succeed is for Good Men to Do Nothing." - Edmund Burke
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Unread 03-26-2002, 08:55 AM   #10
Bulletproofcj7
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You can add repacking your wheel bearings to you list of post mudhole maintanence.
Perhaps there was dirt caught in the seal that caused a small gap, and when you got under there and cleaned it you washed it out of the seal causing it to seal back up properly. just a thought. but if it is not leaking anymore, i would leave it alone ( if it's not broke do'nt fix it!)
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Unread 03-29-2002, 08:54 PM   #11
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An additional note to BulletproofCJ7's note. PACK THE SPINDLE BEARINGS! These bearings are in the spindle(72 and later) and carry the stub axle to the hub. Nobody knows these bearings exist and because of that they are NEVER lubed. Simply knock the spindle off when you lube you wheel bearings and look inside the spindle. You will see a needle bearing. If it's still good, simply lube it and reassemble.Be sure you index the spindle so you can put it back on in the same position.
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Unread 03-29-2002, 09:09 PM   #12
Bulletproofcj7
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Hey!, good call, i had forgotton about those little guys. there's one more job to add to my list!
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1982 cj7. Frame off. shell valley kevlar body, stainless hinges, Bestop seats and supertop, KC titanium lights, Homemade swing out tire carrier with spare front wheel bearings/hub, Built 304,DUI,Edelbrock shorty headers with dual stainless 21/2 tubes into incynerator cans 21/4 dumped out the back,Edelbrock 600cfm, performer intake and cam, Borgeson lower column, Centerforce clutch, NV-4500, Dana 300 w/custom built twin stick, Homade 1/4" steel skid plate, 2.5 soft ride w/ 1" shackle lift, 33x12.5 mtr's. Stainless fuel and brake lines, Braided hoses. more...
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