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-   -   rear end troube (http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f19/rear-end-troube-1678489/)

Buschmann 10-12-2013 11:31 PM

rear end troube
 
My rear end went out today. Not sure yet what is wrong but heres the situation. Its a 1993 yj 2.5 manual, dana 35..my driveshaft spins and my wheels dont..may have been a snapping/breaking noise when it happened nut no sound now...I put it in 4 wheel drove and drove it home no probs. Just wondering before I open the diff if im wasting time on something I for sure need a mechanic for (not sure if im good with setting gears etc.)

Buschmann 10-13-2013 01:01 PM

Bump

Mean Max 10-13-2013 01:08 PM

Turdy5 grenaded.

Time for an 8.8 upgrade.

Max

JEEPNON 10-13-2013 05:57 PM

Turdy fives are unreliable axles. Especially if you off road, tow, have large tires, or drive in a hilly region. Get a beefier rearend or repair the one you have, but I wouldn't put too much money in a 35. Especially if you wanna offroad with your jeep. ^^Ford 8.8s are good^^ Just make sure you get something with the same axle gearing or you'll have to change the front too. Remove the driveshaft, take off the diff cover, turn the pinion by hand, and inspect. Could be a few different problems.

JEEPNON 10-13-2013 06:10 PM

Or you could go to a junkyard and get another 35 from a YJ. Will be anywhere from $100-$400, but probably on the lower end of that spectrum. Find one that isn't leaking and has no signs of leaking anywhere. Pull the cover look for metal shavings, and that it has oil. Turn the pinion and make sure it is smooth and noise free. There is supposed to be backlash so don't let a click or light knock when your changing directions with the pinion bother you. Also you could take it to a mechanic and pay anywhere from $200-$800.Depending on the problem. I would not suggest you setup your gears if you have no experience doing so it can be tedious and tricky. Bearing preload, backlash, gear mesh pattern are all pertinent to keep your rearend from going again.If you know someone who has done it before successfully. Let them help you.

Buschmann 10-13-2013 06:21 PM

I found a ford 8.8 on craigslist for $300...says its from a 2002 explorer sport-track 31 spline 4.10 ratio and drum brakes...should I pick it up?

Mean Max 10-13-2013 07:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Buschmann (Post 16808673)
I found a ford 8.8 on craigslist for $300...says its from a 2002 explorer sport-track 31 spline 4.10 ratio and drum brakes...should I pick it up?

No!

Max

Mean Max 10-13-2013 07:58 PM

Your '93 YJ 2.5L 5-speed has 4.10 ratio axles.

You need a Ford 8.8 from a '95-'01 Ford Explorer (not the Sport-Trac version!) that has 4.10 ratio gears.

Look for the VIN sticker located on either the driver's door, or door jamb. You need axle code 42 or axle code D2 for your Jeep.

Code 42 = 4.10 open
Code D2 = 4.10 Limited Slip

Max

uberxj92 10-13-2013 09:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mean Max (Post 16811521)
Your '93 YJ 2.5L 5-speed has 4.10 ratio axles.

You need a Ford 8.8 from a '95-'01 Ford Explorer (not the Sport-Trac version!) that has 4.10 ratio gears.

Look for the VIN sticker located on either the driver's door, or door jamb. You need axle code 42 or axle code D2 for your Jeep.

Code 42 = 4.10 open
Code D2 = 4.10 Limited Slip

Max

X2. The selectrac is nit worth $50.

Buschmann 10-14-2013 12:25 AM

2 Attachment(s)
Attachment 756313



Attachment 756321

Ok so I pulled the cover and it appears its just the spider gears. Now thinking of just replaceing them or putting a spartan locker in...I know the quik answer is the swap but a full swap just before the holidays kinda sucks. Anyone have experience with these lockers?

Holder350 10-14-2013 03:07 AM

A new set of spiders will cost $80+

A lunch box locker will be about $200-$250+

I would recommend new spiders. A locker will just put more stress on the all ready fragile D35.

Sent from my phone where correct grammar is difficult.

Evildriver-3 10-14-2013 09:22 AM

The already fragile D-35, just spanked a 12 second car, 4000 lb jeep on a D-35 cleared it by 5... Now hammering that 35 for 7 years well over 500hp.

Get new spiders, you have a 2.5 and had either a fluke break or you have a binding situation which is what kills spiders to begin with, but if you think the 2.5 is putting out nearly what i am and you have to run from the 35 rather than fix what is making that issue or change your driving habit, then change it.

Buschmann 10-14-2013 09:34 AM

The "freak" accident was me trying to hop it up a rocky stepped hill climb. My thinking is that I would'nt have had to drive that way if it was locked. Im prolly gunna do it ($250 is well within my budget while a full axle swap right now would be more a time issue than money)

Mean Max 10-14-2013 09:56 AM

Golden Rule for Dana 35 axles.

If it starts to hop..... STOP!!!

Max

Holder350 10-14-2013 10:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 (Post 16822529)
The already fragile D-35, just spanked a 12 second car, 4000 lb jeep on a D-35 cleared it by 5... Now hammering that 35 for 7 years well over 500hp.

Some people have had really good luck with the D35

Not many. But some.

I have seen plenty break on 33s or bigger, and even 31s.

A limited slip or locker can sometimes help quell tire spin and the resulting stress on the shafts but it sometimes means you wont break a shaft until your a couple more miles into the woods, and its usually just prolonging the inevitable.

I personally (see that word? That means this is my opinion) think the $250 would be put to better use on a 8.8 swap

Sent from my phone where correct grammar is difficult.


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