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Unread 03-06-2012, 01:59 PM   #1
reeds86xj
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1996 ZJ 
 
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Location: Essington 19029, Pennsylvania
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Today I decided to fix my oil leak(filter o-ring). While I was doing it I took some pics to make a write up enjoy and let me know what you think:

Tools needed: T-60 socket 1/2 wrench and 11/16 wrench.
I used the 1/2 to turn the socket and the 11/16 as leverage.


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I started to try to turn it but it didnt budge, so I heated the bolt with a blow torch and it broke loose rather easy after that.


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Then wrench it all the way off and pull it out and throw it up on the work bench and pop the oil o-ring out.


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After pulling off the old ring I cleans the surface of any junk and put the new ring on.


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After putting on the new ring put the adapter back on. But I would recommend removing the filter before installation cause its less weight to handle. Then bolt it back on and snug it up tight put the filter back on check oil level, and then enjoy a none leaking adapter.

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1996 ZJ Laredo 182,000 4.0L Auto, 3" lift(upcoutry springs and 2"BB), 31x10.50 A/T's, Dana 30/35 3:55's, Cobra 29LTD, Thrush Turbo Muffler
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Unread 03-06-2012, 08:58 PM   #2
jnicewan
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Thats a nice write-up, it should make it a pretty easy job for the people that are a little worried about doing it. A good time to do this reseal is when the oil change is due because you will have the filter off anyway. Also for a filter that has extra oil capacity and filtration media look up the motorcraft FL-1A or cross that number over to your favorite brand. I know they fit on the 4.0 ZJ but not sure on the other models.
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Unread 03-06-2012, 09:04 PM   #3
reeds86xj
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Sticky worthy?
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Unread 03-06-2012, 09:32 PM   #4
jnicewan
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There is a tech/write-up section but not all people use that and it is general to everything, if it were stickied the mods would probably move it there. Since this is engine related its probably a good place for it to be, unfortunately it will get lost in a couple of days. The title is good for people that use the search function too.
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Unread 03-06-2012, 09:51 PM   #5
reeds86xj
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jnicewan
There is a tech/write-up section but not all people use that and it is general to everything, if it were stickied the mods would probably move it there. Since this is engine related its probably a good place for it to be, unfortunately it will get lost in a couple of days. The title is good for people that use the search function too.
I just hope it helps people cause that's what this whole website is about...
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Unread 03-08-2012, 07:15 AM   #6
awsum99xj
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It there only one bolt to remove the adapter?
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Unread 03-08-2012, 07:29 AM   #7
monkeym38a1
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yes there is only the center bolt that holds it in place however there is a indexing pin sticking out of the block for correct location.
when doing this there are also 2 o rings on the bolt and they need to be replaced as well pre-lubed before reinstall. these are a pain to get restarted with the new bolt o rings because of they are the true full size.
the inner o rings also control flow. a blown inner o ring can cause some oil not to ever make it through the filter but instead leak into the return side of the hollow bolt.
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Unread 04-04-2012, 07:55 PM   #8
pavethearth
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Jus getting ready to take care of that oring on that adapter. Thanks for the post.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 09:16 PM   #9
dkroll
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Can the tube that the oil filter goes over be adjusted to not be so long? I can't fit a PH16 on my vehicle (as it calls for) because the tube is too long somehow. I have to use a "deeper" filter like a PH3985. Sucks, because all my other jeeps use the PH16.
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Unread 01-08-2013, 10:31 PM   #10
jnicewan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkroll View Post
Can the tube that the oil filter goes over be adjusted to not be so long? I can't fit a PH16 on my vehicle (as it calls for) because the tube is too long somehow. I have to use a "deeper" filter like a PH3985. Sucks, because all my other jeeps use the PH16.
Well, I dont like to use fram filters period but your complaint might give me an excuse to try another brand that might fit. You may be able to look at them in the store before buying too. FYI I dont use either of those filters I use a longer filter (wix 51515) this is the same as a motorcraft FL-1A that was used on many ford engines from the 60's-90's. This is just another option for a filter with more filtering and oil capacity as ling as you have the room to use a taller filter.
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Unread 01-09-2013, 05:50 AM   #11
cruiser54
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Replace the nipple on the adapter with a 53007563AB for less than $5. Use late model filters instead, and NEVER Fram. 7/8 wrench for the Renix nipple and 1" wrench for the later one in case you wanna snag one at the JY.
jeep-nipples.jpg  
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If you own a Renix Jeep, you'll want to check this out. >

An index to over 25 write-ups can be found in Post #1.

Cruiser's Mostly Renix Tips
Refresh*Connections*Before*Replacing*Components
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Unread 01-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #12
dkroll
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Does the length of that tube matter so much? proper filtering will not be effected?
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Unread 01-09-2013, 09:17 PM   #13
jnicewan
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkroll View Post
Does the length of that tube matter so much? proper filtering will not be effected?
You do know that the two filters you mentioned have different thread pitches right? If you swap to that smaller tube you will be able to use the filters you keep for your other Jeeps but not the old one anymore

Filtering will not matter with changing the tube. The oil flows into the filter around the outer holes, through the filter media and into the center hole then out of the filter. The reason for the longer center tube was to prevent oil drain back or at least so the filter would not totally drain when its mounted at an upward angle. This longer center adapter was used primarily before filters had built in anti-drain back valves.

Most filters today have anti-drain back valves but some dont, this might be a feature to look for if you are concerned about it.
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Unread 02-19-2013, 11:57 AM   #14
snappyjoe
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hello all!! wanted to add a little to this forum. just got done doing my o-ring on the filter housing and it wasnt bad at all. i was able to modify a couple of things that made the job easier.
first off, the t-60 torx. us can still use this but its a tight snug. i found a local snap dealer in my area was he was nice enough to give me a t-60 bit by itself.
second, the 1/2 wasnt snug enough on the torx. so, i found a 12mm ratcheting wrench made the job alot easier!!
once that came off, i changed the oring and used some wd40 on the t-60 bolt. made turning it by hand alot easier and was able to start it by hand. then i put the 12mm ratcheting wrench
on there and i was done. leak fixed!!
thanks for the forum on here on how to do it!!
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