Hi, I have a Cherokee 99 4.0L. My clutch work fine when cold, but when it start to get hot, the clutch is fading (no slipping). So when it's cold my clutch will disengaged maybe 3 inches from the floor, but after running a bit (the problem arrived quicker when riding in snow or climbing hill or in heavy traffic where I need to shift a lot) it goes down right to the floor to a point that I need to turn off the engine to shift into first or reverse. I can shift while I'm running but it will grind going into second and third.
I've just put a new clutch kit in, while doing that I've found that the slave cylinder was bad, so I changed it. The new slave cylinder had no bleeder valve on it, but I've read the instruction that came with it and tried to bleed it the way it should (by pushing the pushrod by hand until no more air bubble in the master cylinder). That did nothing.
So I changed the master cylinder, thinking it was the only thing that could go wrong. But that did nothing to, the fluid level in the master cylinder always stay the same so there's no leaks.
Then I've bought a new slave cylinder again, with no bleed again...so I've drilled a hole where should be the bleeder, and put a bleeder my self, tried to bleed it that way, didn't do nothing
So I've put back the other slave (with no bleeder) and I've extended the push rod from 1/4" more to 1/2" to 3/4". Each time I extended the rod the clutch was feeling way better, and was higher, but it still get lower and lower has it gets hot. Some people told me that when they don't have any bleeder, that it will bleed it self by pressing the clutch pedal repeatedly. I've probably pushed it a 1000 times, slow, fast, long, short.
Anyone have a idea? Maybe bringing it to a shop for a vacuum bleeding? Was thinking trying Dot4 since it's heat related.
I thought it would be more a hydraulic problem because the clutch never slip and the clutch feel lower and lower gradually, but my 2 cylinder are new that's why I don't understand. You think it could be the flywheel?
So did you have the problem before you installed the new clutch kit? It really sounds like you have a fading problem much like you would get with you brakes due to heat. Im not sure how the fluid could heat up to the point of boiling without metling the plastic line though. Brake fluid is hygroscopic so its attracts and holds water which can lead to a fade problem but since you replaced the master and slave I would imagine all the fluid is new and clean.
I have the same problem in my 91xj. Had clutch replaced, flywheel resurfaced, new throw out bearing (internal type), ditched the old plastic (pos) slip-connect line for custom braided line, new master and slave... barely made it home last night. Peddle drops to the floor. Started to fade when warm, primarily when down shifting, then in reverse, then having to double clutch and now nada. I know that possibly a newer year master and slave set up might work, it's not leaking and fluid level is stable but dirty? Any thoughts?
Maybe if it is dirty you should flush amd change it? Mine i think i'm gonna re-install my old push plate, it was a cheap clutch kit i've put in, maybe the fins of the push plate get softer when hot, I think that could explain the clutch pedal going down.
Well the plot thickens, I'm losing fluid somewhere. With each drive I now am required to top off the fluid which, explains the peddle fade. I chased the line but didn't find fluid or splatter/ residue anywhere. Might be inside the bellhousing near or at the connection to the throughout bearing. I picked up a external slave bellhousing with arm and throughout bearing and Im thinking of picking up a advance adapters clutch slave and line kit for a conversion. We'll see once I drop the trans. I don't know whats worse, not having all the cash to get everything done at once or, having my xj non operational while I fix him. Thanks Chero84 for your reply.