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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:17 AM   #1
AlexGeorgakis
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Looking for Dana 60 front and rear

I'm running a 5.7L V8 HEMI, TH400 transmission and Atlas II 4-speed transfer case with 35" tires. I'm looking for:

1) Dana 60 high clearance rear axle with following options:
a) high pinion
b) bridge for upper link mounts (welded)
c) 35 or 40 spline chromoly shafts, full floating
d) ARB locker
e) 4.11 or 4.56 ratio
f) disk brakes with e-brake
g) 1350 yoke
h) wheel spacers with 5x4.5 bolt pattern and 5x5.5 bolt pattern
I'll weld the upper and lower ink mounts, shock mounts and sway bar mounts myself.

2) Dana 60 high clearance front axle with following options:
a) high pinion
b) bridge for upper link mounts (welded)
c) 35 or 40 spline chromoly shafts, full floating
d) ARB locker
e) 4.11 or 4.56 ratio
j) 4 or 6 piston disk brakes
k) 1350 yoke
l) wheel spacers with 5x4.5 bolt pattern and 5x5.5 bolt pattern
m) locking hubs
n) ram mount for hydro steering (welded)

I want the strongest axles in this category so if there's anything I've messed up in my list above let me know.

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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:25 PM   #2
BlueRubiconrich
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Why not a Dana 60 front Dana 80 rear?
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Unread 11-12-2013, 07:28 PM   #3
ajamison
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You may want to consider a GM 14 bolt rear. they are arguably stronger than a dana 60 rear, and very common in 1 ton axle swaps with jeeps. all of the upgrades you want for your 60 rear are available for a 14 bolt too.
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Unread 11-13-2013, 03:48 AM   #4
AlexGeorgakis
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I thought about a 14-bolt rear but I'm worried about clearance with 35" tires. Does anybody make it with a high pinion? What about weight compared to a D60?
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Unread 11-14-2013, 09:35 AM   #5
Evildriver-3
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14 bolt is only arguably, but it's not stronger.

Call Currie
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Unread 11-14-2013, 09:46 AM   #6
rebelbowtie
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14 bolts are cheaper and easier to find. You can find an old CUCV on a government liquidation site and steal the axles and sell the body cheaper than what you might be able to just source axles for. They're usually already locked, 4.56 gears and some have disc brakes.

Also why do you say you want the strongest axles but plan to run wheel spacers and 5 lug adapters?
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Unread 11-16-2013, 01:20 AM   #7
AlexGeorgakis
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I was hoping to reuse my 5x4.5 wheels and upgrade later.
But I don't think a 14-bolt will work. I need to reduce my driveline vibes by reducing the rear driveshaft angle.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 05:09 AM   #8
Bama_WJ
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Build some 9" hybrid axles. Use a 9" third member and D60 stuff from the differential out. Would be an easy way to use high pinions front and rear. There is a huge aftermarket for 9" stuff. Some 9" diffs are also available in 35 spline.

Or if you really want to be a badass and got money to burn...Torq 14 bolts:

http://www.torqaxle.com/Custom-Rear-...bly-_p_17.html

http://www.torqaxle.com/Custom-Front...embly_p_9.html
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Unread 11-18-2013, 08:13 AM   #9
Evildriver-3
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what are your angles now ?
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Unread 11-18-2013, 08:42 AM   #10
nixer600
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Ok for the record 14 bolts are stronger than 60s

hp60 rears are week bro, I thought you said strong.

And why do you need all this for 35 inch tires,

What engine are you running?

Anyways... Broach to 40 spline run rcv shafts, you'll want add reed racing knuckles.

In the rear broach then you'll want 300m shafts

I would build something more sensible, unless i pay the bills on race day.

If you have the money, just look for a good used set, don't bother saying it has to be the strongest, cause a stock Dana 60 front is stronger than a built 44, and both of those can handle 35inch tires fine, yes I'm sure you do want to upgrade, but how much? 44s or what

Don't get me wrong I think a 60 front, 14 bolt rear is the way to go.

I just build my 60s front and rear. I should have ran a stock but shaved 14 bolt rear, and saved a ton of money.


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Unread 11-18-2013, 10:52 AM   #11
schitzangiggles
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Cool thing about building bullet proof axles and using unobtanium strong ujoints is now you get to fix really expensive stuff when you break it. I can replace a few dozen regular shafts/u-joints for one rebuild on a transfer case/tranny.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 06:28 PM   #12
jason m
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60/14 bolt and your done, simple as that.
OP you claim you want bullet ( or in your case bomb proof ) axle's but your willing to drive the rear on a HP axle with no load bolt????
Get a true High9, as much as I don't like the 9"HP's as least you wont blow up R&P's, with the ring deflection bolt.
Plus you want to keep the 5on 4.5" bolt pattern how are you going to clear the FF hubs? And staying with the 8 on 6.5" bolt pattern will be the strongest lug pattern, why do you think one ton trucks use them.

And to the poster who said a 14 bolt is not stronger can you back that statement up with any facts? It is and I can use facts to prove that, search.

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Unread 11-19-2013, 06:43 PM   #13
Evildriver-3
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Oh I dont know, never had a Dana no matter how hard they held the pedal down break a housing and spit the pinion, exactly like a 9".
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Last edited by Wheelin98TJ; 11-20-2013 at 10:32 AM.. Reason: Made in the USA argument is not appropriate for this thread. Take it elsewhere
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Unread 11-19-2013, 06:59 PM   #14
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Oh I dont know, never had a Dana no matter how hard they held the pedal down break a housing and spit the pinion, exactly like a 9".

****z you're still upset that you don't know the law of 30% to use made in the usa ??? Still bothering you... Lol knows more , so far as for your misinformation I do, and thats the only thing you got right so far
If this was directed at me, HUH? If not disregard.

Anyways here some facts,

14 bolt:
30 spline 1 3/8" pinion at its smallest point.
30 spline 1 9/16" shafts at it biggest point.
3rd pinion support.
10.5" ring.

Rear Dane 60:
1 1/4" 29 spline pinion at its smallest point.
16, 30 or 32 spline 1 3/8" shafts at its biggest point.
No 3rd pinion support.
9.5" ring.

My shaved 14 Bolt had a 1/4 to 3/8" more clearance that the stock unshaved HP 60 front and if you know anything about a HP 60 they have a very large amount of casting that's hard to shave off, unlike the LP Chevy and Dodge front axles.

Jason.
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Unread 11-19-2013, 07:47 PM   #15
Evildriver-3
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Jason you're making the mistake that the 9" guys do. Without that 3rd bearing that diff grenades into pieces, when you hammer it enough that bearing fails and the housing is junk.
Never ever has a d-60 broke like that, it can't
The 60 also comes with 35 spl. Bigger isn't always better.

I have had 2 people destroy the 10.5 version 14 and both were unusable.
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Last edited by Wheelin98TJ; 11-20-2013 at 10:32 AM.. Reason: Made in the USA argument is not appropriate for this thread. Take it elsewhere
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