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Jeep YJ Front Axle Upgrades Options

14K views 19 replies 6 participants last post by  g_oneill 
#1 ·
Hey guys, just finished paying off my wheel\tire upgrade on my axles. In this thread, I want to ask you guys about where to start on the front axle. The jeep YJ comes with a D30 up front with a vacuum disconnect. I've seen people swap for D44, D66, I've seen people swap shafts to skip the disconnect...I've seen all manner of replacements. My question is, what would make the most sense for me?

I use my jeep as an expedition rig, that is, load up camping gear, drive it off road to cool camp sites and four wheel around from there. I'm not a rock crawler or heavy duty mudder. I plan to regear, but I'm not sure what ratio makes the most sense. I'm also unsure as to whether or not I want to put any sort of locker up front; I plan to put one in the rear (different thread).

Ok guys, what do you think? Swap for D44? Upgrade and regear D30? if so, what upgrades? U-joints? Axle Shafts? Gears?

Help.
 
#2 ·
You could lock the front over and ditch the vac and balance the front shaft, from there do the super 30 kit with a selectable locker.

Also, isn't there a d30 hp from an XJ that will get rid of you disconnect as well and is the stronger high pinion? Some else could chime in for that.

I would definitely get a selectable up front. Just watch some videos on here of people that get up over a hump only to let one tire franta-spin up front, looking for a shred to grab onto. Yeah eventually they get it but seems like a lot of flailing with what could be solved by a selectable.

I also need to get on the front selectable as well.
 
#3 ·
For serious off-road exploring options i'd use the D-44 up front w/Eaton or ARB selectable and probably go with 4wd's G2 or i'd use Currie , in that order and gear ratio would depend on tire size
 
#4 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
For serious off-road exploring options i'd use the D-44 up front w/Eaton or ARB selectable and probably go with 4wd's G2 or i'd use Currie , in that order and gear ratio would depend on tire size
I would love to go d44 but they are around 3 grand, plus the locker. A d44 donor vehicle doesn't come to mind that doest require shortening the tubes. Evildriver, we're you talking aftermarket? Or junkyard d44?
 
#5 ·
4wd does D-44 with the Eaton selectable like around 2600 your choice of ratio, Currie is a little more. I forget who I deal with at both but give them a call
 
#6 ·
Evildriver-3 said:
4wd does D-44 with the Eaton selectable like around 2600 your choice of ratio, Currie is a little more. I forget who I deal with at both but give them a call
Hmm, that seems like a legit deal if it comes with gears. I don't like 4wp doing any work on my stuff because I feel they don't have the experience to do anything but bolt on suspension kits, so I like to get my stuff to go ;)
 
#7 ·
4wd is a WD for g2 assemblies, I believe g2 does the work , next time I order ill ask
 
#8 ·
For your jeep I would decide on a tire size first. 33's are good and will get you through most of what you're describing. If you are going to regear, you might want to look for a front axle out of a 2.5L Yj because it already has 4.10 gears in it. You can upgrade to 95+ xj shafts which are one piece and have larger ujoints and possibly an Aussie locker for the front end. The tube seals offered from alloy USA and ten factory are great for keeping gunk out if the axle tube. Other than that, spend most of your time finding a matching 8.8 for the rear.

And by the way, your high pinion Dana 30 up front is plenty strong for your tires. Just make it reliable.



 
#10 ·
Yeah I guess I should have interjected this...I'm kinda working on a budget...grad school doesn't afford me the kind of money to do a driect swap with some new G2s...believe me, I've thought about it, there's just NO WAY i can swing it. I'm rocking 33" tires, and I was thinking about either regearing 4.10 or 4.56...I didn't know the d30 from teh 2.5L YJ was already geared like that.

I've heard good things about the aussie lockers, especially for the price. I'd love to do a hard locker all around, but again, money. I'm planning on swapping out the rear for a D44 (assuming I can find one priced right), I'm just curious if it'd make more financial sense to upgrade the stock d30 or to just try to find the matching d44.

So I'm clear, to really make the factory d30 "trail-able" I'd need to:
1. Ditch the vaccum disconnect
2. New Axle Shafts (95 XJ)
3. Locker (Aussie)
4. U-Joints

Anticanman: I like the way you think. I kinda feel like building a bulletproof rear end (giggity?) is a little more important than a tough front end, especially for a more "casual" wheeler like myself. I think that'll be my plan of attack.

Time to go do some research. Links to reviews, info, and parts certainly will be well received.

HERE"S a question...what the hell is the point of the vacuum disconnect any? What will change if I ditch it on daily driving?
 
#12 ·
Yeah I guess I should have interjected this...I'm kinda working on a budget...grad school doesn't afford me the kind of money to do a driect swap with some new G2s...believe me, I've thought about it, there's just NO WAY i can swing it. I'm rocking 33" tires, and I was thinking about either regearing 4.10 or 4.56...I didn't know the d30 from teh 2.5L YJ was already geared like that.

I've heard good things about the aussie lockers, especially for the price. I'd love to do a hard locker all around, but again, money. I'm planning on swapping out the rear for a D44 (assuming I can find one priced right), I'm just curious if it'd make more financial sense to upgrade the stock d30 or to just try to find the matching d44.

So I'm clear, to really make the factory d30 "trail-able" I'd need to:
1. Ditch the vaccum disconnect
2. New Axle Shafts (95 XJ)
3. Locker (Aussie)
4. U-Joints

Anticanman: I like the way you think. I kinda feel like building a bulletproof rear end (giggity?) is a little more important than a tough front end, especially for a more "casual" wheeler like myself. I think that'll be my plan of attack.

Time to go do some research. Links to reviews, info, and parts certainly will be well received.

HERE"S a question...what the hell is the point of the vacuum disconnect any? What will change if I ditch it on daily driving?
This is a Dana 30 on 36's


This is the same Dana 30 on 35's for daily driving


The solid passenger axle shaft will allow the front driveshaft to turn while driving on the street and may need to be balanced if you get vibrations. The two piece shaft with the Aussie locker will yield the same driveshaft results and will need the same attention. Its not a big deal.

While you're underneath the 95+ xj, grab the pitman arm and front driveshaft to use for a lift and cv shaft respectively. There may be a few 44's around but the 8.8 is hands down the best bang for your buck axle to stick under your jeep to replace the Dana 35.
 
#14 ·
Alright, it looks like keeping the stock D30 may be the way I go...I'll probably look to grab up a rear axle, work on building that, and when I'm ready to install that, build up the front. Swapping in 95+ XJ shafts makes the most sense, as well as a few other options. If I'm going to burn piles of money on anything, I think it's going to be on good lockers...it sounds like that's really the big game-changer once you have reliable axles. Thanks for the info! I'll do a build thread once i move and have the room to start working on some axles.
 
#15 ·
I put a Spartan locker up front. I would not suggest that and a solid passenger shaft. Put a selectable locker in if you plan on putting in upgraded axle shafts. Just my 2 cents.

One more thing REGEAR. What a difference the 4.88's make. I went from 4.10's with my 32's on the 2.5L YJ. Night and Day. Even my wife says WOW as the passenger. So much more control of the vehicle.
 
#17 ·
In the simplest terms: Your 33's are about 17% in their rolling diameter vs. the stock tires. Your gears vs RPM's vs how much torque your engine can produce changes when you change tire size. So what gears are in there now? Go up in number 15% to 20%. Carriers also have breaks on what gears you can put on them. Check that out.

The higher you go the easier it is on the whole system and much nicer to drive. Go too high and your mileage will suffer. I only put about 8000 miles a year so I am not too concerned about mileage. 4.56 would have been OK for me. Do not forget to change the speedo gear too.

Axle upgrades are not cheap. If you are not doing the work yourself, consider getting already built. The hard part is if you change gears, you must do both. Maybe take out a second mortgage and get what you really what.
 
#19 ·
Believe me, my girl makes me take a shower after a long solid day in the garage, I know! Ha.

I try to use my jeep year round..I realize it'll be expensive, but I'd rather do it right and space it out and have something I can really rely on. I think the plan right now is this:

Acquire Dana 30 out of a 4-banger YJ (with 4.10 gears)
Add 95+ Solid XJ Axle Shafts (Or similar replacement axle shafts)
Acquire Ford 8.8 out of a Eddie Bauer Explorer (4.10 gears and LSD)

Install axles in Jeep. Once i get this far, I can decide if I want to regear from here. I can always do that when I:

Add Auburn Ected Locker in rear
Add (TBD) Locker to Front

This way, I can kinda "space it out." I can't imagine it'll be too hard to find a Dana 30 from under a 4-banger YJ. The 8.8 from under one of those Eddie Bauer Explorers will be a little trickier, but if I'm persistent, I'm sure I'll find one.

And I have a few buddies with welders, and even one with a full lift in his garage. For a little money and beer I'm sure I could convince him to help in this operation.
 
#20 ·
That sir is an excellent plan.

Although the D30 may not be as easy as you think. It is desirable because of its high pinion placement which keeps the drive line angle more straight. I believe you already have that axle You should consider just changing gears in the one you have. That way you would be putting a new bearing set in at the same time. Would be like a brand new axle. Most of the work is getting the old shafts out. If you have any problems with that let me know. I have ways to persuade those hub bolts. Buy 6 new ones before you start.

Glad you want to do it right.
 
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