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captainmpva 06-27-2012 01:42 PM

Jeep WK Grinding Noise when turning
I have a 2005 Jeep Grand Cherokee Lts 5.7. Last summer I started to get some grinding noise after my Jeep sat for a few hours. It would happen in left or right turns but, only for the first 5 minutes of driving. It would then go away. Over the winter nothing really happened but, this summer the noise has returned and is worse. I did a bunch of research and have found that maybe the Diff fluid could be the issue so, last Friday I had that swapped out with adding some Kendall Friction Modifier. I also had power steering fluid done. This made it a bit less vibration/grinding/slight pops less but, seem to be returning back to normal after the weekend. I've heard the fluid matters so, not sure if that's the case.
I have taken it to 2 different shops and they looked at it for free and said that my front end seems solid and nothing appears to be wrong. They suggest taking it to a dealship as it must be internal. The dealership charges 120 bucks to even look at it.
I called a transmission place down the road and they'll take a look at it for free but, was wondering if anyone could point me the right direction? I've heard of a bunch of people having this problem and took a long time to track down with different results.


captainmpva 06-27-2012 01:44 PM

There is some binding noise while turning. I just took it to a transmission shop and they drove it. They said it was some kind of clutch in my Transfer Case. I did not change this fluid. I asked if it were in the Differential and they said it was not in there or my shafts. Tehy said to tear it down would be $375 and to replace that part which is what they believe it to be is $800 and I'm looking at roughly 1300-1500 to fix. Should I do the mopar fluid to both the Diff and Transfer case before spending this kind of money? Unfortunaltey they didn't put it in the air or anything.

captainmpva 07-10-2012 08:37 AM

I've done a bunch of research on this and some people say CV Axle, some people say Diff and some people say Transfer Case. I do have clicking in my front right CV Axle. I changed Diff Fluid (But not with Mopar, added Kendall Friction Modifier). I've also changed Transfer Case fluid and added 2 Quarts of NV245. Little bit of spilliage but, took both so, I'm guessing it's full as I believe it's supposed to take 2 quarts. Should I just suck it up and have the dealer take a look? It's not covered under warranty so, I'll have to pay 125 dollars just to look at it.

Mishimoto 07-10-2012 09:08 AM

Front right CV axle is clicking-does the boot have rips in it and is everything in that area a greasy mess?

captainmpva 07-10-2012 09:40 AM

The CV Boot does not have any rips in it what so ever. Just get occasional clicking when I turn corners. Do you think this may be related to my major issue of the grinding when I turn left or right after hte car sits for a bit, then goes away?

Mishimoto 07-10-2012 03:27 PM

I can't say I've ever seen a CV axle go out with a boot intact before, but it could happen. Normally the boot rips and all the grease comes out, dirt goes in and it's all bad. Can you jack this up, put some jackstands under the front and then turn the wheels and watch for things rubbing, and bare metal/shiny metal areas.

pjtownsend76 08-03-2012 11:59 AM

I have an 05 WK and I have this same problem. This morning I changed the diff fluid and used the mopar additive. I'll let you know in a few days if it's good.

pjtownsend76 08-06-2012 09:30 AM

Update- I changed the front diff fluids with Mobil 1 and used the recommended anti slip additive. It seems to be a little better but it is still grinding a small amount when I first start driving.

amryan 08-18-2012 03:24 PM

I am having the same issue as well... After it has been sitting for a bit and turn left there is a grinding noise, this goes away after 15 miles of driving.

Any resolution?

captainmpva 02-25-2013 08:34 AM

The latest was I replaced Diff bushings, front struts and lower control arm bushings because and it did not fix the issue which I didn't think it would. They were just bad and needed be replaced. I ended up not taking it to dealership and/or having a transmission place start taking things apart as I didn't have any confidence from everything I've looked at online and no one being able to figure this out. I ended up trading my jeep in for a new one. I figured they can take al ook and fix it before reselling it.

Sorry, still no resolution but, if you have found one it would be great to post so, others can have a resolution.

Evildriver-3 02-25-2013 10:09 AM

Check your hubs, and axles and shaft if they have a rzeppa... this is something that all you will get is guesses, there is no way to diagnose this over the internet, i would tell anyone to come see me rather then explain this over the phone.
There are to many things that need to be checked to make a correct diagnosis and change one part rather than 3

Could it be the diff, yes as something different is happening at each side of the diff, it could be a axle, it could be a hub also..could be is the problem

HelloNeumann 12-11-2013 12:54 PM

Curious as to whether captainmpva's issue with his 2005 WK was ever resolved.

Just returned from a Jeep dealership where I had a similar issue investigated (also for a 2005 Grand Cherokee, 5.7L Hemi); results of investigation indicated a bad "actuator valve" in the front differential, according to the Service Writer - which corresponds to the front ELSD solenoid valve specified in the Jeep WK Service Manual. I'll get the part number and post it soon.

Projected cost is approximately $200 for parts and related supplies, roughly $700 total for the job, with an expected repair time of 5-6 hours. I'll have this work done when the part arrives in two days.

Thanks to all of the posters on this forum, I had been able to come up with an initial diagnosis on my own - and was somewhat relieved to hear the service technician came up with the same diagnosis independently. [I say "somewhat", because I would have preferred to have the problem be solved with a simple differential fluid change...but it could have been worse:)]

Edit: The part numbers are/were #52114003-AF (actuator solenoid, $63 Dealer/$48.60 Web) and #52114327-AC (wire harness, $13.65 Dealer/$10.53 Web).

Follow up, 12/13/2013: Job took 5 hours, total cost $671.35 ($500 labor, $152.91 parts, remainder tax). [Watched how the service tech accessed the front differential to get at the solenoid; he used what seemed to be a much easier (and less involved) approach than the one outlined in the WK Service Manual. He just removed the 4 bolts connecting the drive shaft to the front differential, supported the front differential with a stand, and then removed the 2 mounts holding the front differential assembly to the body. Then he just rotated the front differential so that he could access the bolts on the differential. For those that are handy and have the right equipment and tools, it didn't appear to be as difficult as the manual made it out to be. Having just replaced the front struts, brake rotors and sway bar bushings, I would have tackled the front solenoid replacement myself, too, had I known the technician's trick for accessing the front differential bolts.]

Jeepforthewin 12-11-2013 09:20 PM

I was having a similair problem with grinding noise while turning and the sound disappearing after the jeep warmed up. Turned out to be a bad solenoid in the front diff. Replaced it and was good to go :D

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