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Unread 11-03-2013, 11:40 PM   #16
brandonw599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberxj92
He means while you gave the front drive shaft half out you may want to rebuild it. 4.5" with 33's you'll have to trim the fenders and get good bump stops. 6.5 clears 33's nicely and gives some extra flex room. You can still run short arms on this lift. Better with ling arms. Whichever lift you decide get spring packs for the rear. Stock gears will run 33's on the road. But you'll be in 4wd almost constantly off road. 3.73 gears are easy to find and upgrade to in an xj. They are good for 33's but 4.10's are better.
Ok so should I just find axles that have 4:10s in them and swap them? Or just re gear and lockers?

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Unread 11-03-2013, 11:51 PM   #17
uberxj92
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It depends on you. The 4.10's are perfect for 33's. What I did (best bang for my budget) was found a Dana 30 out of a 4 cylinder tj in Craigslist for $200. Its direct bolt in.
For the rear there's alit if choices but I went to a junkyard and grabbed a ford 8.8 with 4.10 limited slip. That was $150. Cost me $300 at local 4x4 shop to have it rebuilt and they added extra shims to tighten the limited slip, and to gave the welding done.
Have run these for 3 years now hard too.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 12:51 AM   #18
brandonw599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberxj92
It depends on you. The 4.10's are perfect for 33's. What I did (best bang for my budget) was found a Dana 30 out of a 4 cylinder tj in Craigslist for $200. Its direct bolt in. For the rear there's alit if choices but I went to a junkyard and grabbed a ford 8.8 with 4.10 limited slip. That was $150. Cost me $300 at local 4x4 shop to have it rebuilt and they added extra shims to tighten the limited slip, and to gave the welding done. Have run these for 3 years now hard too.
Ok. Well what year did you find the Dana 30 out of and the ford 8.8. Would I be able to find one with a locker in the back?
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:16 AM   #19
holysirsalad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uberxj92
He means while you gave the front drive shaft half out you may want to rebuild it.
4.5" with 33's you'll have to trim the fenders and get good bump stops.
6.5 clears 33's nicely and gives some extra flex room. You can still run short arms on this lift. Better with ling arms.
Whichever lift you decide get spring packs for the rear.
Stock gears will run 33's on the road. But you'll be in 4wd almost constantly off road.
3.73 gears are easy to find and upgrade to in an xj. They are good for 33's but 4.10's are better.
You still need to bumpstop on 6.5" dude. And you'd have to be insane to run short arms with 6.5" lift. There is no reason to go over 4.5" with 33s unless you like flopping when off-camber and have extra money, and it's too warm to literally burn it.

3.73:1 isn't even worth the time thinking about if you have 33s and an AW4. 4.10:1 at the very least, 4.56:1 recommended to keep your power and usability offroad.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:19 AM   #20
holysirsalad
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonw599

Ok. Well what year did you find the Dana 30 out of and the ford 8.8. Would I be able to find one with a locker in the back?
Any D30 from an XJ or TJ prior to 2000 with the 2.5L gas an 5-speed should have 4.10:1 gears. If you find an XJ with that then it may also have a Chrysler 8.25 which is fine for 33s. 2000 and later may also have the same but use a low pinion D30 which robs clearance and is weaker.

If you have a high pinion D30 now and a 29-spline C8.25 just throw some 4.56:1 gears in there and be done with it.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:47 AM   #21
uberxj92
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There's always going to be gearing and axle opinions. I was just trying to give some easy and easy on the wallet ideas.
Just remember if you regear your current axles that's like $500 each unless you can do it yourself. You will still have weak xj drums on the rear and open diff too. That'll cost extra to add in. Swapping axles is cheaper and easier. Just an option.
Holysirsalad is right about long arms.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:58 AM   #22
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonw599 View Post
What do you mean?
The front driveshaft likely caused this.

The centering ball in the front driveshaft seizes up.

When the driveshaft can no longer rotate, the transfer case blows apart.

Did you hear any squeaking prior to this? That is one sign the front driveshaft is about to fail.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 09:40 AM   #23
brandonw599
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Originally Posted by Wheelin98TJ
The front driveshaft likely caused this. The centering ball in the front driveshaft seizes up. When the driveshaft can no longer rotate, the transfer case blows apart. Did you hear any squeaking prior to this? That is one sign the front driveshaft is about to fail.
Umm I mean I couldn't tell you. I got 2 12s in the back. So you can't hear anything but bass lol.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 09:44 AM   #24
brandonw599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holysirsalad
You still need to bumpstop on 6.5" dude. And you'd have to be insane to run short arms with 6.5" lift. There is no reason to go over 4.5" with 33s unless you like flopping when off-camber and have extra money, and it's too warm to literally burn it. 3.73:1 isn't even worth the time thinking about if you have 33s and an AW4. 4.10:1 at the very least, 4.56:1 recommended to keep your power and usability offroad.
Ok well what would I be able to find 4.56:1 gears of out? Would I be able to find axles front and rear with them in it.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 09:46 AM   #25
brandonw599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by holysirsalad
You still need to bumpstop on 6.5" dude. And you'd have to be insane to run short arms with 6.5" lift. There is no reason to go over 4.5" with 33s unless you like flopping when off-camber and have extra money, and it's too warm to literally burn it. 3.73:1 isn't even worth the time thinking about if you have 33s and an AW4. 4.10:1 at the very least, 4.56:1 recommended to keep your power and usability offroad.
And do you recommend the 4.5 then with long arms or short arms. I want to mud and crawl in my jeep.
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Unread 11-04-2013, 12:18 PM   #26
holysirsalad
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Originally Posted by brandonw599 View Post
Ok well what would I be able to find 4.56:1 gears of out? Would I be able to find axles front and rear with them in it.
4.56:1 are very rare in stock Jeeps. A few very old ones had them with the 4 cylinder and automatic, but just the D35 rear axle which won't handle locked 33s. For crawling you'll want to find good axles and build them properly.

Quote:
Originally Posted by brandonw599 View Post
And do you recommend the 4.5 then with long arms or short arms. I want to mud and crawl in my jeep.
Short arms are livable on 4.5" but long arms will give you much more articulation on the rocks. For rocks I'd avoid drop brackets for clearance's sake. Do some looking around at build threads, see what you and your wallet like!
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Unread 11-04-2013, 08:43 PM   #27
uberxj92
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If you're gonna crawl on 33's I would go 6.5" long arms for the extra clearance. And skid plates.
Definitely good advice to search on builds.
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Unread 11-05-2013, 01:32 AM   #28
brandonw599
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Originally Posted by uberxj92
If you're gonna crawl on 33's I would go 6.5" long arms for the extra clearance. And skid plates. Definitely good advice to search on builds.
If I got 6.5" I would have to get a extended driveline right?
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Unread 11-05-2013, 04:12 AM   #29
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It would be safer to install an sye especially if you wanna crawl
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