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Unread 01-02-2013, 06:39 PM   #1
dayriesw
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2005 LJ Wrangler 
 
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Hp 44 and dana 60 8 lug

Found an ad for a set of hp44 and d60 from a local guy who is selling to upgrade to bigger. He runs these currently on a modified 2 door XJ (full cage, custom link front, yada yada yada. I have never met him or wheeled with him but here is his add:


Quote:
I am upgrading my axles and am selling the ones under my XJ now. The front is a 78-79 HP44 out of an F250 and the rear is a 30 spline full float Dana 60 out of a similar late 70's F250. Both axles have 4.88 gears and rock crusher diff covers. The front axle has a mini spool, Poison Spyder high steer arms on both knuckles (heim joint style), and a complete spare short side axle shaft and a spare drivers side stub (broke the inner axle at the splines). The rear axle has a full spool but I do not have any spare shafts to go with it. Both axles were built in 2007 with new bearings, seals, u joints, and brakes and have about 1,000 miles between trails and limited road use.

I'm looking to get $1,250 for the pair and they are located in Addis.
Quote:
Both axles are 8x6.5 and full width. The front is about 69" and the rear is similar, but I have not measured it. The front axle has factory TJ/XJ coil buckets but custom control arm mounts. The lowers are prefabs (forgot where I got them) but they are the correct width for the standard XJ/TJ bushings or aftermarket rod ends. The mounts are a little bit farther apart than a stock axle and the upper control arm mount and track bar mount are custom and it is set up for a radius arm the passenger side. The rear axle has the factory location leaf perches on it and they are 1-2" too wide for an XJ, so the leaf springs are stretched out. I never got around to welding new perches on to move them in, but the perches are cheap. The axle is actually still under the jeep if you want to see how it lines up. I can tell you for sure that you will need to adjust the length on your lower control arms since I have the mounts rotated up slightly. I will try to snap a few pictures tomorrow.
I then pm'd him for some more. Here are his answers.

Quote:
The axles are in Addis, La (5 miles south of Port Allen). They are still under the jeep right now, but I'm going to start pulling them tonight to make room for a hp60 and 14 bolt. I snapped a few cell phone pics on my way out this morning, but please let me know if you want to see more.
Quote:
I am just selling the axles, but I can leave the tie rod on since I will need a different length for the hp60 anyway. The rear hard brake line will stay with the axle but I need the flex line that runs to each front caliper and to the rear axle. I can get a few pictures of the control arm mount when I get home if you think you want to try to use it. Also, the shock tabs on the factory XJ/TJ coil buckets are cut off and I have my shocks mounted on the control arms, so you will need some kind of shock mount. The axles are a little sandy now from my last trip to Sicily Island, but I will hose them off once I have them out.
Quote:

That is no problem. These axles were my first swap as well, but it was surprisingly simple. I will snap a few more pictures when I get home, but my best advice if you want to keep it simple would be to weld the proper coil brackets on the rear axle and run the matched set. Otherwise you are going to have a bolt pattern and width mismatch between front and rear. I don't know if any rear axles that are full width with either a 8x6.5 or 5x5.5 (knuckles can be swapped to half on gear on the front), so you will have a hard time matching something else up. I am purchasing all of my new brackets from Ballistic Fabrication and Ruff Stuff Specialties, but their are several companies out there that have surprisingly cheap brackets and kits that make the swaps pretty easy or you could cannibalize a set of factory axles and use those brackets. The rear spool actually handles better on the road than the detroit I had in my stock axle since it never unlocks and re locks in a turn. The only problem is that it does eat tires and you will leave tire marks every time you turn. However, if you are making this a trail rig I like the spool since it is actually a little easier on the shafts than a detroit since it will never suddenly lock up and shock load the axles. Is your jeep a daily driver? If so, I would recommend pulling the spool in favor of a selectable or detroit for the tire wear issues. Also, with either a detroit or a spool your tire pressures have to stay almost exactly the same from side to side. Otherwise it will feel like your jeep is about to run off the road constantly.
Quote:

I'm working on building the new axles now and the money from these will let me finish them. No real rush, but I will let you know if I have another person interested since you are first in line. The WMS is between 67 and 69 depending on where I look, but I have not put a tape on these recently. I took a few more pictures including some to show how much my tires stick out. The wheels are 17x9 with 5 or 5.5" back spacing (factory h2 wheels) and they keep the tires sucked in fairly close to my stock axles with 33s.
Quote:

I paid $200 for the set of H2 wheels on ebay a few years ago and they do not have to be recentered. The h1 wheels are 16.5" steel and have 7+" of backspacing but the h2 wheels are 17" aluminum with 5-5.5" backspacing. This makes for an overall width of 81" with 37x13.5-17 boggers.
Here are the pics.





















So, I have never done an axle swap let alone two. These will be going on my DD which is a 05 LJ 4.0L/nsg370/231. Currently I have a d30/d44 Aussie up front with Detroit in the back, aftermarket shafts and 4.88s.

With the new axles, I might be starting with my current mtrk 35s or move up to some used 37s. This is my dd and I don't have a welder but have access to one and have been planning one getting on for a while. I took some classes in college and have a bit of experience, basically I am not afraid to weld or try but I will be starting from square 1.

Concerns.
1. I will probably have to swap out all the brackets on the front axle. Is there truss system that is best suited for this? Where should I even start looking?
2. If I am having to swap in all new brackets on the axle, should I just upgrade to a 3 link or do that in a few years down the road? (Budget might be the deciding factor here)
3. There is no three.
4. This is my dd. spool in rear? Is this going to eat tires?
5. The rear axle is set up for leaf springs. Do you have a suggestion on bracket?

Questions.
A. $1250 for the pair? Seems like a great price compared to what I see around here.

B. I have a line on a JK non rubi 44 rear. Can I convert bolt pattern over to this or vice verse? Am I being to picky and should just take the pair? Does the year model / age matter if they look ok and have been rebuild recently?

C. See above 4. How much would a limited slip or Detroit run for a replacement? Is this something I can do in my backyard (I have 99% of my axle work in backyard).

D. I am planning on running no flares. Is that going to look ridiculous on a street rig?

E. Will I be able to use my e-brake after the swap?

F. How much is market value for a set of d30/44 locked and all?


Let me know if I am missing something.
Thanks.

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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s
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Unread 01-02-2013, 10:56 PM   #2
tjkj2002
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'78-'79 HP44's from a F250 run about $150-$200 here complete,the rear D60 from the same year F250 is about $100-$150.Even with gears installed does not seem like a good deal as you'd have to swap out the rear spool anyways for DD and not a good idea with a front spool unless you your going to hydro assist steering.$700-$800 for the pair is a more reasonable price for that combo in that state.
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Unread 01-03-2013, 02:29 PM   #3
dayriesw
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Anyone else?
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Impact Orange LJ - DD...sitting low, flat bottomed, fully armored and locked on 37s
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