How much does it cost to regear?
I want to regear my jeep xj for 33" tires and want to know how much it will set me back thanks
It's not so much a year or model type of thing so much as the differentials and other parts of the drivetrain. When you move up to bigger tires, you typically want to lower your gearing or you start to lose speed and power. If you have a RWD Jeep, you only have a rear differential to worry about but with a 4WD drivetrain you have to think about both differentials, match the gears, consider the change in behavior with the current transfer case and whether or not the new gearing will be effective(calculate the lowest sets).
I look up parts on the Diff Wizard site and the parts are kinda okay since I have a Model 35 rear and Dana 30 front. If I want to drop the gearing to a more appropriate 3.08, the Yukon ring and pinion set is about $260 for the rear and $200 in the front. Even though I have 2.73 gears in my Eagle, it doesn't look like much changed for options in your XJ. You're supposed to have the same differential set but if you have the Chrysler rear, changing gears is probably going to cost a bit more. The worst priced gears seem to be the 3.55 set. Gear set pricing seems to go up as you go up the rank of differentials. So if we were working with DANA 44/60, the costs would be staggering.
Personally I only use my car as a commuting thing and while I have issues in very deep snow, I'm the only one that ever tries to plow through it in the early mornings. My automatic transmission robs the whole thing of about half the power it should have and while that's no big deal on snow and ice, it's incredibly stupid when the wheel wells get caked and frozen. I only have a single speed transfer case. Pulling a NP229 from a Wagoneer up in Olympia or Lakewood for $150 and getting low range would be just as effective as changing tires, messing with the differentials or doing exhausting amounts of work that I really have no business doing.
A lot of Jeep owners I meet like to go rock crawling and they typically have somewhat low gearing like 3.73 or something painfully slow. They often have a low range that multiplies the range by 2.72 but they would honestly benefit from something like 4.0 or closer. It might be a thing for you but it really depends on what you actually want.
Price the gear sets.
Labor is the killer, but it can be flexible. If you have someone do the entire job, your looking at about 8 hr labor (these numbers can vary from shop to shop, check your quotes)
If you want to save money, you can pull the housings and do a bench overhaul. This is where the mechanic only sets up the R+P, you do the rest. Usually 1 to 2 hr per axle.
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