[cdebo1]

I guys I have gotten a lot of information here but I recently bought a swamp buggy. So needless to say its a full off custom. I have narrowed down that I have an f134 hurricane but need to try and date it( need parts) any help will be appreciated.

[Jeff88]

Maybe just take it to a movie, dinners can be awkward at first, or the new thing is just to make a lunch date, this way if it doesn't work out, you've only lost an hour.



It was produced from 1950-1971, and I am not really thinking there were any significant changes.

What kind of parts do you need?

If for some reason you need to be more specific, I would go over to www.earlycj5.net and ask those guys how to identify it, if anyone knows, it is the tech section over there.

Here is a link to the specs... http://magma.ca/~smaclennan/m38a1/fhead-specs.html

[cdebo1]

Yea I tried the dinner date but it didn't want to put out. I can't find any casting numbers but will all the 134's 1950-1971 use the same core parts Distributer rotor ect.. It seems to be missing. Want to pull the plugs new cap wires rotor plugs compression test and start there. Thanks.

[Jeff88]

I am 99% sure that they are all the same and everything would interchange.

I have one in my CJ5 and I have never really needed to buy any parts for it, but I recall looking this up in the past.

[cdebo1]

Great thanks. I will run down to advanced and just ask for mid 50's cj and start there. Thanks for the help

[Jeff88]

If you look at just where the head kinda meets the water pump, there is a little flat ledge about 1/2 inch wide by maybe 3 inches long or so. That is where the serial number is stamped. You would be looking down on the motor to see the ledge, the number could be covered in oil. It is kinda hard to see, and I have read that if the block was decked, it could remove the serial number altogether.

[cdebo1]

Originally Posted by Jeff88

If you look at just where the head kinda meets the water pump, there is a little flat ledge about 1/2 inch wide by maybe 3 inches long or so. That is where the serial number is stamped. You would be looking down on the motor to see the ledge, the number could be covered in oil. It is kinda hard to see, and I have read that if the block was decked, it could remove the serial number altogether.

Yea looks like there is no sn. I looked there but if I find a sn will that help get me the year.

[Jeff88]

I would just use the 1955 CJ5 and tell the auto parts guy that. I just can't imagine there is any difference year to year, it was a different time where they didn't seem to change all that much for the sake of change, if that makes sense.

That engine is waterproof, and it will run under water, if you have a snorkel, you can submerge the entire thing and it will run. If you killed it while under water, it would even restart completely submerged.

It is an amazing piece of work.


It is capable of operating with the engine completely submerged in water. Underwater operation is possible because of waterproofed components and a design which utilizes the engine ventilating system as a pressure seal against entry of water past mating surfaces. Since a majority of the waterproofed assemblies require atmospheric pressure, either to operate or prevent condensation damage, a ventilating tube system is used for this purpose.

Department of National Defense Repair Manual 7610-21-848-1570

[cdebo1]

Ok guys back to the Brain trust. Looks like I had to go to a 69 cj to get the right ignition parts but won't know until they come in. New question. On the left Side of the motor there is a cover that I assume from research is the exhaust valve cover I have a oil leak coming from the stud that would normally hold the throttle spring. Obviously I should tighten it and see it go away but i have read that people over tighten this and make things worse?. Any inside help torque spec?

[cdebo1]

Originally Posted by cdebo1

Ok guys back to the Brain trust. Looks like I had to go to a 69 cj to get the right ignition parts but won't know until they come in. New question. On the left Side of the motor there is a cover that I assume from research is the exhaust valve cover I have a oil leak coming from the stud that would normally hold the throttle spring. Obviously I should tighten it and see it go away but i have read that people over tighten this and make things worse?. Any inside help torque spec?

Also what should my spark plug gap be??

[Jeff88]

I am not sure about torque specs for that stud.

What made you have to go to a 69? Just curious.

Plugs...

Spark plug gap: 0.030 in. (0.762 mm)
Spark plug torque: 25-33 lbs. ft. (34-44 Nm)

[cdebo1]

Originally Posted by Jeff88

I am not sure about torque specs for that stud.

Plugs...

Spark plug gap: 0.030 in. (0.762 mm)
Spark plug torque: 25-33 lbs. ft. (34-44 Nm)

Thanks. I should read some more befor I ask I found the spark plug gaps but just not sure about the stud.

On another note any idea on this
The buggy will run in 4x4 low or high seems fine but in 2x4 it bogs down and stalls. Not worrying much about it until I change all the ignition and check timing and compression but any thoughts

[cdebo1]

Originally Posted by cdebo1

Thanks. I should read some more befor I ask I found the spark plug gaps but just not sure about the stud.

On another note any idea on this
The buggy will run in 4x4 low or high seems fine but in 2x4 it bogs down and stalls. Not worrying much about it until I change all the ignition and check timing and compression but any thoughts

I jumped to a 69 because I was on summit and it was not until I went to 69 did they call it a willys?? So for whatever reason 69 seems like it may work at least the photos look like what I need.

[cdebo1]

Here are some photos just for and idea of what I'm working with. Gona take some photos of the motor this weekend

[Jeff88]

Is it leaking in either of these two places?

http://img405.imageshack.us/i/f134leftside.jpg/