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Unread 04-19-2013, 09:46 PM   #1
Bama_WJ
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HOW-TO: 42RE Vent Relocation Modification

This is going to be a how-to/write-up on how to relocate the vent on your 42RE transmission (other A500 series transmissions should be similar). This modification will allow you to ford deeper water crossings without the fear of water getting into your transmission.

Disclaimer: This transmission modification is to be done at your own risk. I do not assume responsibility of any injury, damage, or anything else that may occur. This transmission modification is to be done at your discretion.

Things you will need:


  • Drill
  • 7/16” Drill Bit
  • 1/4”-18 NPT Tap
  • Brass 1/4” NPT 90 Degree Elbow
  • Brass 1/4” NPT x 3/8 Barb
  • Brass 1/4” NPT Plug
  • X’ 3/8” Hose (I got 6’ of it)
  • Teflon Tape
  • Socket Set
  1. First thing you want to do is drop the transmission. In my case, I am working on a spare transmission that will eventually make it under my WJ. I’m not going to go into dropping the transmission since that is not in the scope of this write-up.
  2. I would suggest cleaning your transmission while it is out of the vehicle. It makes the transmission nicer to work with down the road as well.
  3. Pull the torque converter. It should just slide right out. Set it aside.
  4. The next thing you should see is this. The hole on the top left that’s next to the bolt is the vent hole we’re going after…



    …now take out the bolts (one more is hiding behind is the shaft I believe). You’ll need a 1/2” socket to remove them. You might need to double up on extensions in order to use your ratchet.
  5. Once you remove the bolts, you’re going to need to pull that section out. It’s wedged in there pretty good. Two of the bolt holes are threaded in order to use a puller. Some of my spare D60 diff cover bolts fit in there perfectly. I then crafted this crude device to wrap around the bolts that would in turn pull the section out of the transmission.


  6. Give it a few good pulls and you’ll end up with something like this…




  7. You’ll then want to flip it over. There you will see 6 bolts which holds the two halves of this section together. These bolts also take a 1/2" socket.



    Removing those bolts will leave you with this…


  8. Now take the front half and situate it in a way that you can work on it. I used two small pieces of scrap 2x4’s I had laying around to prop it up.


  9. Now take your drill and 7/16” bit and drill out the factory vent hole. The hole is not much bigger than the drill bit, so let the bit eat slowly or else it will grab and yank your hands around.


  10. You are now ready for your 1/4” NPT tap. I used a wrench to turn it for the first little while since I felt like it gave me better control on how straight the tap was. I later switched to a ratchet and socket to get more leverage once the tap was well established.


  11. Once your hole is tapped, you can now insert your brass plug. Don’t forget the Teflon tape.


  12. Now put the two halves back together. The holes only line up one way, so no need to worry about how each half was oriented.


  13. Moving on to the transmission housing. You’re going to want to drill and tap along the ridge on the top/center of the transmission. This ridge will allow for enough room between the new brass vent and the transmission components.


  14. Before you start drilling in the housing, place some sort of cloth or towel under the place that you will be drilling. This will keep 98% of the shavings from entering the transmission.


  15. Repeat your procedures for drilling and tapping. Remember that aluminum is soft. You almost don’t need to press on the drill for it to do a good job.




  16. Once you’re finished drilling and tapping. Clean up any extra shavings.
  17. Add your 90 degree brass elbow and barb fitting.



    Here you can see the fitting clearance from the inside…


  18. Time to reinstall the section you removed earlier. I found it easier to stand the transmission up on its hind end to seat the part.


  19. Reinstall the bolts from Step 4. They should seat the section fully.


  20. Connect your new transmission vent hose.


Now sit back and enjoy not having to worry about a water logged transmission!

If there are any changes you guys would like to see, just let me know.

Hope this helps someone out there!

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Unread 04-20-2013, 09:43 AM   #2
TJSWJ
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very nice writeup! I like the plug idea a lot better than welding the hole in the cast pump housing. This is definitely on my long list of to do's.
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Unread 04-20-2013, 10:16 AM   #3
Bama_WJ
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Thanks man. It was surprisingly easy to do and only took an afternoon. Plus it cost only about $50, so that's another benefit!
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Wife's Jeep: 2006 WK Overland - OME HD Lift, 265/70/17 BFG AT's, 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers, 3" Gibson Cat-Back

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Unread 04-20-2013, 11:56 AM   #4
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last time i had my transmission rebuilt i asked the mechanic to add a breather hose to it, which he did, routed it up to the engine bay. is doing this mod better than what i had done? i don't know anything about transmissions and don't even know where the factory vent location is...just wondering if your mod puts the vent at a higher location than factory....
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Unread 04-21-2013, 12:18 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Jeep View Post
last time i had my transmission rebuilt i asked the mechanic to add a breather hose to it, which he did, routed it up to the engine bay. is doing this mod better than what i had done? i don't know anything about transmissions and don't even know where the factory vent location is...just wondering if your mod puts the vent at a higher location than factory....
Sounds like you have the same thing now. Adding the hose lets the vent be relocated up to the engine bay. Higher is definitely better.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 04:00 PM   #6
Bama_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Jeep View Post
last time i had my transmission rebuilt i asked the mechanic to add a breather hose to it, which he did, routed it up to the engine bay. is doing this mod better than what i had done? i don't know anything about transmissions and don't even know where the factory vent location is...just wondering if your mod puts the vent at a higher location than factory....
Since I can't see your transmission, I don't know what exactly he did.

The factory vent is behind the torque converter. No hose or anything on it...it's just a hole.
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Wife's Jeep: 2006 WK Overland - OME HD Lift, 265/70/17 BFG AT's, 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers, 3" Gibson Cat-Back

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42RE Vent Mod - Seal your transmission!
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Unread 04-21-2013, 04:24 PM   #7
4x4Jeep
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bama_WJ View Post
Since I can't see your transmission, I don't know what exactly he did.

The factory vent is behind the torque converter. No hose or anything on it...it's just a hole.
all he did was add a hose from the factory hole/vent into the engine bay.
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Unread 04-21-2013, 10:27 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4x4Jeep View Post
all he did was add a hose from the factory hole/vent into the engine bay.
Thats dang close to being impossible. That factory vent hole sits behind the torque converter as seen in the pics. If he attached a hose to the factory vent either A) the torque converter wouldnt seat properly, or B) the torque converter would rip the hose to shreds.
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Unread 04-22-2013, 06:31 AM   #9
Bama_WJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TJSWJ View Post
Thats dang close to being impossible. That factory vent hole sits behind the torque converter as seen in the pics. If he attached a hose to the factory vent either A) the torque converter wouldnt seat properly, or B) the torque converter would rip the hose to shreds.
That's what I was thinking. And even after all that the hose would have to be routed somewhere where the transmission wasn't bolted to the engine.
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1 Ton WJ Build In Progress

The Daily: 2011 Chevy Cruze Eco - Trifecta tuned and 37+ MPG

Wife's Jeep: 2006 WK Overland - OME HD Lift, 265/70/17 BFG AT's, 1.25" SpiderTrax wheel spacers, 3" Gibson Cat-Back

North Alabama Jeep
42RE Vent Mod - Seal your transmission!
YouTube. - My Video Channel
Facebook - Wheeling Pictures/Videos
The Jeep Wave. Bringing it back.
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