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Unread 02-12-2010, 10:25 PM   #16
4.7stroker
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Just get you machine shop to order the correct pistons/rings/bearings n gaskets for you.

Dwayne

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Unread 02-13-2010, 02:39 PM   #17
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormkaster View Post
thanks for the help guys, went back to napa and just went old school and looked threw the Clevite parts guide and found all the right part numbers... if i change the pistons and rings will i need to change anything else?
Have you miked the cylinders yet? You will need to if you plan on trying to get away with not boring. Be sure to check the top and bottom after honing to insure a proper reading.
Machine shops used to knurl piston skirts to refit pistons into worn bores. With the advent of modern electronics and machining, this practice has fallen by the wayside. You can ask your machinist if he has the equipment to do it, and if so, then I would recommend getting it done. Again, best thing is to simply do the nasty and bore.


Quote:
all the berrings all still fit well using the STD. size and the crank is still in balance..
Be sure to plastigauge the bearings to insure proper clearance. An extra thousands can mean the difference between good oil pressure and bad.
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Unread 02-13-2010, 03:58 PM   #18
4.7stroker
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There is nothing to be saved by trying to half *** a rebuild. You always find the time and money to do things right after trying to cut corners to save time and money.

Dwayne
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Unread 02-19-2010, 12:34 PM   #19
stormkaster
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not trying a half assed rebuild as you put it, none of the berrings are going to be reused. The reson i ask is the machine shops around me charge way too much for there parts and i know what they wholesale for due to my job and can get them at that price just wanted to know if i needed to swap anything else even though all the standard measurments on the crank and cam are still in check..
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Unread 02-19-2010, 08:48 PM   #20
jeepdaddy2000
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stormkaster View Post
just wanted to know if i needed to swap anything else even though all the standard measurments on the crank and cam are still in check..
Cam bearings, rod and main bearings, timing set, oil pump, grind the valves, thermostat, and all new gaskets and seals.
Don't forget to cut the ring ridge, hone the cylinders and check the ring end gap.
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Unread 02-20-2010, 09:57 AM   #21
stormkaster
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my machine shop is going to hone the cylinders after they bore em out, decided im gona go with the .060 over,

thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it
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Unread 02-20-2010, 10:01 AM   #22
jeepdaddy2000
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Originally Posted by stormkaster View Post
my machine shop is going to hone the cylinders after they bore em out, decided im gona go with the .060 over,

thanks for all the help guys, really appreciate it
Why would you go .060? .030 is a standard first bore. Your not going to get any real more cubic inches and there is no more room to cut. It also thins out your cylinder walls.
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Unread 02-20-2010, 10:27 AM   #23
stormkaster
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so you sugesting sticking with the .030 becasue there is more negative results rather than gains?
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Unread 02-20-2010, 10:47 AM   #24
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Yes, the 3 cubic inches you gain by going 60 over is not worth it. Just go to the next standard over bore.

Dwayne
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Unread 02-20-2010, 10:49 AM   #25
stormkaster
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alright i will stick with the .030 over that i originaly had planed on, thanks
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