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justinyancey 08-14-2013 01:06 PM

Help Me save my Jeep
First off I am currently searching the forum for answers but I thought I would also ask the question

I have a 2002 Jeep TJ inline 6 automatic, I have been battling coolant issues, I had a faulty Radiator and replaced it, the lower radiator hose, and the radiator cap, continued to loose coolant and found a pool in my passenger side floor board, I just replaced my heater core. This entire time I have not had any milky oil.

I ran the jeep yesterday and decided to check the fluid levels to see if I needed to top it off. I quickly discovered my overflow tank empty and my radiator was almost dry. I checked the oil again and found it to be milky. There is were my coolant is going. I currently don't have the cash for a engine repair. I also don't feel comfortable taking apart an engine. What can I do to help protect my engine untl I can get it fixed. I have drained the oil and I am planning on filling it with cheap oil and draining it again

Any oher Ideas for what to do tho help save my engine. Thanks

justinyancey 08-14-2013 05:27 PM

Bump for help

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schitzangiggles 08-14-2013 07:17 PM

Sounds like a blown head gasket for sure.
The best part of this equation is that it is an I6 and really straightforward to fix and cheap compared most engines.

@ $14.61 for the Fel-pro gasket,ca...,parttype,5412
and $24.79 for the Fel-Pro head bolts,ca...,parttype,5308

Fairly straight forward

DO NOT use those "stop leaks", they are snake oil and at best a temporary repair that makes a bad situation worse and at worst they cause more damage due to overheating and more damaged parts.

GilaMtnJeep 08-14-2013 10:27 PM

What he said^^^^^^

As far as driving it goes, DON'T! It needs to be fixed before it is driven or the end result will be an engine rebuild instead of a simple head gasket replacement.

justinyancey 08-14-2013 10:48 PM

I was quoted $1200 for a replacement head gasket and the guy also stated the price included machining and magnafluxing does this seem reasonable? (from what I have read sounds steep)

also is the 2002 have the bad cylinder head? I am at work, but I will check for the casting number in the morning

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justinyancey 08-14-2013 10:58 PM

2 Attachment(s)
I replaced the oil filter and added fresh Rotella T oil following another threads advice. I don't plan on moving it. I have attached the photos of the oil, the radiator fluid looks normal, and hasn't gone lower since I topped it off when I did the oil change.

If I was to do the work myself what else needs to be done. I feel it is likely overheating that caused the failure. I don't want to spend a fortune and then have to replace the engine anyways, but I would like to save it if I can.

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schitzangiggles 08-14-2013 11:43 PM

Get a metal straight edge and use it to check the top of the engine block for true. Take your head to a machine shop and have it hot tanked (cleaned really good and checked for trueness should run you about $60-$75 for that and maybe another $75 to $100 to have it machined true. If your willing to invest some sweat equity you can have the head gasket replaced for under $250.

The I6 is probably one of the easiest engines to work on. Case in point, I got a Cherokee from my brother for free because several shops quoted him $1,200 to $1,500 to replace the rear main seal. I did it after he signed the title over in under an hour for the cost of the sea, some RTV and an oil change. Drain and drop the oil pan, loosen the main bearing caps, pry the crank down about an 1/8" push the old top seal out with the new one, a dab of RTV on the ends where it meets the lower seal, retorque the main bearing caps, rtv the oil pan, re-install it, put on a new oil filter and fill with oil. wait for @2-6hrs or less if you have the new ready to go in 15min RTV specially formulated for oil pans/differentials and then you are good to go.

He was pissed. I did try and tell/help him to do it, but my Dad told him since it isn't worth the $1,200 to him to fix it, just sign it over to me. Dad was always good at teaching object lessons to us. My brother learned just because a shop quotes something, doesn't make it so.

justinyancey 08-19-2013 09:42 PM

While I am in the engine is there other things I should plan on replacing?

schitzangiggles 08-20-2013 05:29 AM

Have your injectors flow tested/cleaned, check out your lifters and your oil pump. Also check your exhaust manifold for any leakage/cracks.

How many miles are on your jeep?

justinyancey 08-20-2013 08:27 AM

Right at 90K

BIGBADWOLF 08-20-2013 09:11 AM


Originally Posted by justinyancey (Post 15793821)
I have a 2002 Jeep TJ inline 6 automatic, I have been battling coolant issues, I had a faulty Radiator and replaced it, the lower radiator hose, and the radiator cap, continued to loose coolant and found a pool in my passenger side floor board, I just replaced my heater core.

Sounds like the coolant system has been neglected. If this was the case and if you had OAT or Hoat (long-life antifreeze) the coolant turns into an emulsion that is highly acidic. This type of coolant will EAT water pump impellers. It will eat gaskets including head gaskets.
You need to COMPLETELY flush and CLEAN the coolant system. GM dealers sell a flush the will neutralize and clean up a OAT disaster,however it is expensive. I have had good results with using Cascade dish washing detergent. i cup of cascade,run engine 30 minutes and flush then repeat 3 more times.
Along with cleaning up the system and replacing the head gasket CHECK the water pump!!!!
One bit of conventional IAT silicate ethylene-glycol antifreeze and change it every 2 years.
Don't get me started on a rant about these so called "long life antifreeze"

schitzangiggles 08-20-2013 10:48 AM

I will not use ANY antifreeze that contains Silicates (They are responsible for the bad rap the Ford 6.0 got) I run Final Charge in all of my vehicles from my 06 F250 , my YJ, wife's XJ and Saturn.

Since I switched over my 6.0 to this, I have never had the issues of a plugged EGR cooler, plugged oil cooler or a blown head gasket. Dealership asked me what I was doing different and I asked the service manager if he had any other customers with out issues, the only ones of us that never had issues had switched to Final Charge as soon as we got our trucks.

FINAL CHARGE® Coolant also meets Cummins® 14603, Detroit Diesel® 93K217, Mercedes® 325.3; MAN 324 Typ SNF; MTU 5048; Navistar® CEMS-B1-Type IIIa; Behr Radiator and is recommended for use in all types of heavy-duty diesel gasoline and natural gas engines.

You meantion OAT's and how evil they are, here is som egood news for you:
Q: My truck is using a heavy-duty OAT coolant, and I would like to change to FINAL CHARGE® Coolant. How do I convert my truck?
A: With FINAL CHARGE® Coolant's patented formula, you can convert a truck using a heavy-duty OAT coolant without having to drain, flush and refill the cooling system. For vehicles already using another brand of heavy-duty OAT coolant, simply begin and continue fulfilling all top off requirements with FINAL CHARGE® Coolant.

Read more here:

justinyancey 08-20-2013 07:35 PM

The previous owner had let the Jeep sit up for 6 months without running it. I think this was the root of all of my coolant issues. I have already replaced the radiator, heater core, lower radiator hose, Thermostat, and radiator cap. I left the upper hoses because they don't look too bad and I can keep an eye on them. I haven't replaced the water pump because their has been no seepage from the weep whole. I haven't thought about the impeller not functioning correctly.

The coolant that was in it was Red but couldn't tell you more than that. while diagnosing the several leaks I had in the system I was using a cheap multi-use Prestone antifreeze from Walmart. I plan on flushing the system once I have the engine back together. I may go ahead and replace the water pump while everything is torn down.
I will admit I didn't realize the spring needed to be in the lower hose so I will have to locate the bad hose I took off or find a replacement. I didn't go on any long drives just back and forth from work ~4miles one way, So I don't think it was an issue.

Thanks for all the advice and keep it coming. I am a Resident Physician which means horrible hours and low pay. Just trying to make it for one more year until my Jeep can get the treatment it deserves. Until then I just hope to prevent/fix any damage that may have been done to it from the original OPs lack of service. I do know they were pretty fanatical about oil changes. I know the differential fluids need changing as does the Transmission fluid. Pretty sure they haven't ever been touched.

schitzangiggles 08-21-2013 10:04 AM

Do you have a high-school or community college automotive repair class you could take it to? Basically you pay for the parts, they fix it for free to give the students experience in different repairs.

justinyancey 08-21-2013 08:06 PM

I will check into it... None that I am aware of in Augusta, but there is a technical college in Aiken nearby that might be willing to do it

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