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Unread 03-31-2004, 04:10 PM   #1
GreenReaper93
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Gettin' the Gunk out!

Hey everyone! Well, it's that time of year where I need to give my heap a good engine cleaning. I need something that will completely clean the inside. I've heard some guys mention a thing called seafoam...what is it? Where can I get it? Also, I'm installing a new oil pump and want to get as much gunk out of the engine as possible. I really want to make sure there's nothing in the engine when I add the new oil. Thanks in advance!

GR93

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Unread 03-31-2004, 05:30 PM   #2
zookie85
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I would be careful of doing a flush like that. If there is gunk in there, it is liable to get stuck in the oil passages and cut off oil to parts of your motor. I would just drain the oil and change to filter and thats it, like they say, if it aint broke, dont fix it. About the seafoam, I have heard good things about it desolving gunk in a motor but its not gaurnteed to dissolve everything leaving chunks to get caught up elsewhere. just my 2 cents
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Unread 04-01-2004, 09:54 AM   #3
ctavel
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so yall wouldn't do any of those engine cleaner things. I know mines gunked up b/c the previous owner didn't take great care of it. Got any ideas? Change the oil a couple times in a short period?
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Unread 04-01-2004, 10:06 AM   #4
fuzz401
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change the oil and filter run it for a couple 100 miles change it again when it is hot and go from there
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Unread 04-01-2004, 10:45 AM   #5
Gator
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i used ATF a few times it works, however i also found later on that after cleaning the sludge & crap from the inside on a higher mileage engine... oil leaks soon apeared. especially around the front & rear seals

so its 6 in one hand half dozen in the other

all i done was drain the oil & changed the filter, put in however many quarts the engine needed of Atf < yes Automatic tranny fluid> ran it for 15-20 mins & drained

atf is one of the best cleaners out there, you ever get heavy grease on your hands & cant hardly get it off, wash your hands in Atf.. the heavy stuff will come off & after that you can wash your hands with regular soap & water.... if you dont have any hand cleaner around : )
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Unread 04-01-2004, 11:01 AM   #6
n1ywb
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There are a bunch of tricks for cleaning the gunk out of your engine. Yes gunk does build up in engines, especially when the oil hasn't always been changed regularly, the engine is old and has high miles, and when dino oil is used. Gunk can clog oil pickup tubes, oil jets, and hydraulic lifters.

Synthetic oil has been known to clean the gunk out. Just switch to synthetic, no other action necessary.

ATF has been known to get the gunk out. Procedures vary but basicly you add a quart of ATF to your crank case then change your oil after a thousand miles or so.

Rislone and CD-2 are oil detergents that get the gunk out and can be left in and run all the time.

With any of these methods be aware that you may have worn seals and or gaskets, but the gunk has formed false seals and or gaskets, and that once the gunk is gone oil may leak past the worn factory seals. I put CD-2 in because I had a noisy lifter, and it really helped a lot, but now I really need to change the rear main seal. Que serah.
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Unread 04-03-2004, 12:01 PM   #7
zookie85
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If you switch to synthetic, it will probably all end up on your driveway in a few weeks, that stuff is way too thin for a high mileage american motor.
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Unread 04-09-2004, 09:21 PM   #8
doorocks
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zookie85
If you switch to synthetic, it will probably all end up on your driveway in a few weeks, that stuff is way too thin for a high mileage american motor.


Use 50w synthetic oil in high mileage engines. Your supposed to change your major gaskets anyway throughout the life of your engine, which helps in preventing leaks.
My XJ had 290k on it when it was wrecked, with 50w. Good mileage, response and no leaks.

Steve
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Unread 04-09-2004, 11:04 PM   #9
adamonearth
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I have heard about engines leaking after a switch to synthetic, because it clears the gunk that builds up on the gaskets. But I have also heard that after a while, the sythetic will actually soak into the gaskets and revive them, making them expand and fill in the leaky spots.
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Unread 04-10-2004, 10:23 AM   #10
Cynic
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i dont really see the need for synthetic oil in our jeeps, unless you are looking for longer change intervals....just change the oil when its warm and keep up with it every 3k miles and alot of the gunk will come out....like someone said before if its not broke dont fix it....

my previous vehicle was a 00 s-10 and I switched to synthetic when it had about 9k miles on it....it instantly had 2 leaks...1 at a pressed hose fitting for the filter relocation lines, and another around the oil pan....obvisously it was repaired under warrenty but before I switched to syn it did not leak a drop.....
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Unread 04-12-2004, 08:22 AM   #11
osudelt69
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Chevy S-10's suck. I switched to mobil 1 syn at 60,000 in my 5.0 mustang. Never had a problem. 73,000 now. No leaks.
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Unread 04-12-2004, 09:47 PM   #12
Cards81fan
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The whole "leak after synthetic oil in high mileage trucks" thing is just a myth. You may notice a leak after the oil change, but it wasn't the synthetic oil that caused the leak.

I have switched over to synthetic after 120,000 miles on my Ranger 4 cyl and... no leaks

(BTW, If you are wondering why a Ford owner is on a Jeep website, it's because I admire your great vehicles and plan on aquiring one in the next 2 months or so).

Seafoam (get it at NAPA, IIRC) and the "Gunk Out" (or whatever it's called they have by the oil at Autozone) have both worked well for me, albeit it wasn't in my car where I used them.

I would recommend a high detergent oil (with a CH-4 / CI-4 rating), namely Mystik Super-Heavy Duty JT-8, or Shell Rotella T multi-grade. Both come in 10-30 as their lightest weight, but 10w-40 and 15w-40 are available if you prefer the heaver weight for older vehicles (I don't).

Most synthetics are at least CF rated, meaning they have moderate detergent levels, but the two oils listed are known for their CH/CI ratings and high additive package (both popular among diesel users )

This would be the low-effort way of cleansing your engine's crankcase and such, but it would also be less likely to leave chunks of loosened debris floating in the oil pan.
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Unread 04-13-2004, 08:39 AM   #13
GreenReaper93
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cards81fan
Seafoam (get it at NAPA, IIRC) and the "Gunk Out" (or whatever it's called they have by the oil at Autozone) have both worked well for me, albeit it wasn't in my car where I used them.

I would recommend a high detergent oil (with a CH-4 / CI-4 rating), namely Mystik Super-Heavy Duty JT-8, or Shell Rotella T multi-grade. Both come in 10-30 as their lightest weight, but 10w-40 and 15w-40 are available if you prefer the heaver weight for older vehicles (I don't).

Most synthetics are at least CF rated, meaning they have moderate detergent levels, but the two oils listed are known for their CH/CI ratings and high additive package (both popular among diesel users )
Where can I find one or both of the motor oils you listed above? That sounds like a good place to start. At the moment I've been using Valvoline High Mileage. Also, I was recently told by a few shade tree mechanic friends to run a bit of diesel in the engine with the old oil before I change it. The proceedure seemed simple enough (add some deisel to the old oil, pull the coil wire, and crank it a few times....lather, rinse, repeat...) but I'm not sure if it's a grand thing. Comments?
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Unread 04-13-2004, 09:20 AM   #14
Cards81fan
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I have seen the Mystik oil for sale at Autozone and Advance. The Shell Rotella I have seen at Wal*Mart and Autozone, but not inthe 10w30 weight - only the 15w40 (IMHO still would be acceptable in summer )

However, Mystik is made by Citgo (Tulsa-based oil company), so maybe that is why I have found it here in auto stores so easily. Another place to look for it would be farm and tractor stores. Mystic makes a HUGE product line of specialty oils and greases, which makes them very popular with the agricultural types who need the lubricants for their farm equipment

I have heard the diesel method as well, but to be honest, I have reservations about putting a fuel intended to combust (albeit at HIGH temperature) in my crankcase with lubricant. But then again, I haven't tried it myself so I cant say for sure. I am sure an engine flush (like "gunk-out" or Seafom) would work better (and safer), if you venture to use one at all.
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