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Unread 01-07-2014, 09:03 AM   #16
brouwmat
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tall2slow
My vents are blowing just as hard as they ever have. Just because I witnessed the doors operating, opening and closing, by using the temp switch, doesn't mean that they are working properly?
No, the actual door may be broken off of the hinge or shaft that the actuator turns on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tall2slow
The door is closing all the way, but perhaps isn't opening fully??
If they're cracked and not completely broken off then they might not open or close completely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tall2slow
It was suggested to me that I disconnect it from the motor and try to manually open and close it. If unable to, I guess the door needs replaced?
Yes, or if the shaft that the actuator turns spins freely or the door doesn't fully and firmly close. You'll be able to tell once you put your hand on that shaft and manually turn it.

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Originally Posted by 2tall2slow
I am really hoping its gonna be a simple solution. I read last night in depth on how to remove the entire heater core. That involved a bit too much for my skill level.
It is not as bad as it seems.. there are some really good step by step instructions out there. I did mine myself and I'm by no means a mechanic. The hardest part for me was removing the hoses off of the heater core and disconnecting/reconnecting the AC lines. The rest of it is done with a few sockets and screwdrivers.

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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:06 PM   #17
2tall2slow
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HaHa, yes! The intimidation came after reading that I had to depressurize my ac lines before disconnecting them. Something about working with combustibles make me timid. Call me gunshy.
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Unread 01-07-2014, 02:07 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2tall2slow
HaHa, yes! The intimidation came after reading that I had to depressurize my ac lines before disconnecting them. Something about working with combustibles make me timid. Call me gunshy.
long handled screwdriver and some leather gloves will do the trick. pull the caps off and you'll see that it looks just like your tire valve.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 05:59 AM   #19
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freon and almost all commercially available refrigerants aren't flammable. You really only have to worry about two things. Asphyxiation from the gas displacing the oxygen in a closed area and phosgene gas that is created by burning organochlorine compounds like freon.
Just have good air circulation and don't have open flames like kero heaters on when you do the A/C work.
If you have ever smelled burning brake cleaner spray or air duster, then you've breathed phosgene..very acrid nasty stuff even in small amounts. It's not as much the phosgene as the impurities associated. weapons grade stuff is toxic before detectable amounts, common shop creation leaves a lot of extra chlorine and sub components that make your eyes water.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:07 AM   #20
2tall2slow
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Good information, good to know. I will resume work on it today, and i need to deactivate my air bags. I do not have a manual switch for that, hoping its simple as finding a fuse to pull.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:34 AM   #21
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Did you pull the actuator off and confirm that it is a blend door issue?

You don't need to deactivate the air bags to do this.

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Unread 01-08-2014, 09:46 AM   #22
2tall2slow
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Not yet. Plan on disconnecting door from motor today and testiing door manually.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 02:37 PM   #23
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ok. my actuator is off and the blend door can manually be moved all the way open and closed. I reconnected actuator and using temp switches the door still opens and closes, but no heat anywhere. what now?
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Unread 01-08-2014, 02:49 PM   #24
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Run theengine tillit reaches operating temp. Open the hood and grab onto the hoses with bare hands. Are the both so hot that you can't hold onto them? They should be. If it is just uncomfortable then that is not the same thing.

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Unread 01-08-2014, 02:58 PM   #25
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There are three doors in that assembly. The blend door (which controls Hot/cold) and is the one you were working on. The Recirculation door which controls whether or not you are heating outside air or the air already in the cabin, and the door that controls whether your air is directed through the defrost, front or floor vents. If all those are working well then the only other thing it could be is the heater core or the thermostat.

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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:03 PM   #26
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I need to find the location of the two other doors you speak of, before I go any farther.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:28 PM   #27
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They are in the HVAC box and I don't think you will get to them without ripping out the dash. You can test those by just running through the modes on the dash. If they all work then no further testing will help with that issue.

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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:37 PM   #28
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just to be clear, my engine was at running temp. I rechecked my two heater hoses and they were very hot. now the other two doors on my heater core must not be easily accessible, meaning I will definitely have to remove the whole heater core?
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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:42 PM   #29
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the other doors must work. going through the modes on the switch(defrost, floor, etc) all work just fine.
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Unread 01-08-2014, 03:56 PM   #30
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Definitely do some more reading & testing before tearing apart the dash - for example, there are options to repair the blend door by cutting thru one of the casings rather than doing the full dash removal.

Also, just a note, if it comes down to it - venting refrigerant to the atmosphere on purpose is illegal (in addition to potentially toxic/flammable). EPA regulations. What you *can* do is go to a repair shop and ask them to pump out the refrigerant for you. They will capture it and likely recycle or re-use it. You may have to pay a small amount for the service, but then you can also feel comfortable working legally with a depressurized, cleared system.
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