First Run - 4.0L I-6 '97 GC Laredo - JeepForum.com

 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-30-2004, 08:52 PM Thread Starter
Brian's 97 ZJ
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First Run - 4.0L I-6 '97 GC Laredo

Well, after fixing my leaking coolant problem...

I primed the oil pump (w/o burning up a drill!), verified my electrical connections and turned the key...

rev
rev
rev
rev
rev
rev

No start.

Getting spark from the coil? Check
Getting spark to the plugs? Check
Getting fuel? Check (plugs are wet)

Hrmmm...

rev
rev
rev
rev
rev
rev

Nothing. Not even a hint of firing up. Blah!

Ok, time for brainstorming and thinking back to assembly...

Engine came shipped with the #1 cylinder TDC on the compression stroke. Installed the dirstibutor so that the rotor was on the #1 cylinder (I did remove the distributor when I primed the oil pump and I did mark it and returned it to the same position.). Put the flywheel on...but, uh oh, did I put it on correctly? Maybe it is off by 180 degrees?

...will have the results of further testing tomorrow (I hope I have a timing light somewhere.).

Stay Tuned!

- Brian

P.S. The engine didn't even run and I liked the sound coming from the header. ...the rest of the exhaust will go on later in the week.

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post #2 of 7 Old 07-01-2004, 11:33 AM Thread Starter
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Update - 7/1/2004 1:15 PM EST

It's alive!

Ok, I found out that I did indeed install the flywheel 180 degrees off of TDC on the compression stroke. So, when my search of the garage for a timing light left me empty handed, I moved the plug wires on the distributor to correct my error; wire #1 to #6, #5 to #4 and so on. Turned the key and it fired right up. So I ran it for 15 minutes to break in the cam, lifters, etc. I listened to the engine at various places with a mechanics stethescope and everything sounded smooth.

Everything mechanical sounded smooth but the idle is rough. It will idle (roughly) on its own, revs ok and sounds the best right at 2000 RPM. Putting it in gear to move the vehicle caused a couple of backfires but I was able to drive it back into the garage. Time to pull codes from the ignition.

Codes:
12
27
27
27
27
27
27
43
55

I suspect that the timing is still off slightly and I will have to buy a timing light (I really thought I had one. I'll just blame the "timing light gnomes" on its disappearance.).

I am open to further suggestions (Tom, where are ya' buddy! ).

- Brian
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post #3 of 7 Old 07-01-2004, 12:04 PM
JJorda
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You'll probably see some smoothing out of the engine if you can find your timing light, get the timing done just right, and make sure nothing else is 180* out.

Here's a list of what the different codes mean:
http://www.jedi.com/obiwan/jeep/dtc.html

I didn't see a code "43" on that list, though. Are you sure your distributor is installed correctly? Does your distributor have any kind of sensor that would be able to detect where the engine should be in it's rotation? You might have your fuel injectors running 180* out then (TDC on compression stroke), but there's enough fuel in the intake at that point to keep the engine running. Judging how you got 6 code 27's (Injector output driver does not respond properly to the control signal), I'd say that your injectors are ok, but something else is amiss.

1989 Jeep Wrangler - Daily Driver and project - Red Jeep Club #216, NRA Jeep Club #5
1967 Chevelle SS396 - Main Project <--454, TH400, 4.10's, FAST
1982 Caprice Classic - Another project <-- 350/700R4, 4 wheel discs
1979 Honda Civic CVCC - Yet another project <--goal of 60 mpg
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post #4 of 7 Old 07-01-2004, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Update - 7/1/2004 11:28 PM EST

Found out what the rough idle trouble was...

When I moved the wires on the distributor cap around so that #1 was on #6, etc. it is apparent that I was running the wrong firing order around in my head 1-5-3-6-4-2... It should have been 1-5-3-6-2-4. I had the #2 and #4 wires in the wrong place on the cap. Doh!

Anyway, the new 4.0L is running well now. I am going to try to get the new exhaust put on tomorrow so that the downstream O2 sensor is actually doing something (right now the exhaust ends at the header). I expect this to help clean up the idle even more and it should be road worthy again by Saturday.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I will post up images of the assembled engine later in the week (maybe tonight) and keep putting up updates as new findings/trouble arises.

- Brian
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post #5 of 7 Old 07-02-2004, 02:03 PM
75SV1
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dai_Ryu
Found out what the rough idle trouble was...

When I moved the wires on the distributor cap around so that #1 was on #6, etc. it is apparent that I was running the wrong firing order around in my head 1-5-3-6-4-2... It should have been 1-5-3-6-2-4. I had the #2 and #4 wires in the wrong place on the cap. Doh!

Anyway, the new 4.0L is running well now. I am going to try to get the new exhaust put on tomorrow so that the downstream O2 sensor is actually doing something (right now the exhaust ends at the header). I expect this to help clean up the idle even more and it should be road worthy again by Saturday.

Thanks for all the help everyone! I will post up images of the assembled engine later in the week (maybe tonight) and keep putting up updates as new findings/trouble arises.

- Brian
Brian,
I was keeping track of the coolant issue. Seems you solved your problem. I don't think I would have been of much help. The complete exhaust should help your idle and plus the O2 sensor. Hope to see the pictures. Still working on siding my house, so my engine replacement is still on hold. From the previous pictures, it looks good.
Tom
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post #6 of 7 Old 07-02-2004, 07:18 PM Thread Starter
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Update - 7/2/2004 9:14 PM EST

I had the rest of the exhaust installed earlier today. I had the shop reuse the the stock O2 sensors for now (I have a new downstream sensor but not one for the header yet).

Acceleration is steady but sluggish. No backfiring or missing, just sluggish. Hard acceleration causes the 'Check Engine' light to come on and I get the same codes as I did previously. Disconnecting the battery resets the computer and the 'Check Engine' light will stay off unless you really open up the throttle. I'm open to ideas to correct this: My current thinking is that I need to retard or advance the timing by moving the distributor either ahead or behind by one tooth on the gear (it is possible that I don't have it right on anyway).

- Brian
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-06-2004, 07:48 AM Thread Starter
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Update - 7/6/2004 9:23 PM EST

Ok, this isn't really an update to my previous (suspected) timing issue, but I do have a few pictures for your viewing pleasure. Unless, of course, you are on a 56k connection; 125k+ per image, sorry. There are 8 pictures.

Picture #1: Engine assembly. Installing head and rocker assembly to the block.


Picture #2: Engine assembly. Installing head and rocker assembly to the block.


Picture #3 Engine assembly. Closeup of valve mechanics.


Picture #4: Engine assembly. All rocker arms, bridges and pushrods assembled.


Picture #5: Engine assembly. Intake and exhaust ports.


Picture #6: Engine assembly. Fitting valve cover prior to masking and painting the head.


Picture #7: Installation. I didn't take pictures as the engine was going in. Imagine it going over the A/C radiator, tilting, lowering, more tilting and then some wiggling.


Picture #8: Installation continued.



I'll be using a code reader tonight to attempt to get a better handle on my 'Check Engine' light.

- Brian


For some reason, being a member of the CharGold Jeep Club just isn't as cool... Member #1
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