drive shaft vibrations after axle swap - JeepForum.com
 
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post #1 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 12:21 AM Thread Starter
jeepordie10
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drive shaft vibrations after axle swap

So i just swapped in a ECGS ford 8.8 everything went great until i hit about 40mph and i could feel some drive vibrations. I put the track bar in the lowest hole because when i lifted the axle up all the way thats the hole that lines up... My question is did i get it in the right hole (hahaha funny) or is it from the drive shaft?

98 jeep tj
4" adjustable short arm RE lift, 2" body
tcase drop, motor mount lift, SYE and tom woods driveshaft...

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post #2 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 05:32 AM
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The track bar does not have much to do with it.

Did you adjust the pinion angle?
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post #3 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 09:47 AM Thread Starter
jeepordie10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
The track bar does not have much to do with it.

Did you adjust the pinion angle?
going to go measure pinion angle now.
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post #4 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 10:49 AM Thread Starter
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tcase angle is 20 and the axle is at about 24... would 4 degrees make a huge difference? My Rubicon Express adjustable control arms are rusty and i couldnt loosen the nut?
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post #5 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 11:06 AM
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With an SYE the pinion should be pointing directly at the t-case output yoke. In other words zero degree angle between the driveshaft and pinion. As little as 2-3 degrees off can make a difference.

Do you really need the t-case drop with the SYE? Seems like a waste of ground clearance to me.

P.S. Good luck with the control arms. They don't like road salt at all. I used to wash mine and slather them with grease weekly during the winter months.
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post #6 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 10:01 PM Thread Starter
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Alright got them off and adjusted.. I also noticed that my brake pads are rubbing on the rotors more then they should be. when i drove it it sounded like a train wreck, could this be a bad brake bleeding or caliper piston stuck?
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post #7 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 10:05 PM
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since you have a tom woods drive shaft you have most likely seen these
Here is a diaghram of the Proper Geometry For the 2 types of drive shafts.
3 joint drive shaft. (A.K.A. double cardon joint and a single joint shaft)

A shaft with 2 single joints

(photos from Tom Woods Drive shafts)

Jim
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post #8 of 11 Old 04-06-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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yea i got that figured out, but just need to figure out my brake problem ^^^
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post #9 of 11 Old 04-07-2012, 09:17 AM
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Probably the calipers. A couple weeks ago I did just pads & rotors on my new rig then two days later driving down the highway the smoke started pouring from one of the rear brakes. Caliper was stuck. Cutting corners does not save anything. If I were you I would have done pads, rotors, and calipers at the same time as the axle. And oh yea, don't forget to paint the calipers red!
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post #10 of 11 Old 04-07-2012, 11:49 AM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Technohead View Post
Probably the calipers. A couple weeks ago I did just pads & rotors on my new rig then two days later driving down the highway the smoke started pouring from one of the rear brakes. Caliper was stuck. Cutting corners does not save anything. If I were you I would have done pads, rotors, and calipers at the same time as the axle. And oh yea, don't forget to paint the calipers red!
all new pads rotors and calipers got it fixed it was stuck. Got my control arms back on and took it for a drive, still get a little vibrations but not as much as before. The pinion is at 23 and the driveshaft is at 22... Since its a bolt in axle from ECGS the guy said the pinion axle is set to "factory with the lift" so ill have to bring the control arms in a few rotations?
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post #11 of 11 Old 04-07-2012, 02:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jeepordie10 View Post
Since its a bolt in axle from ECGS the guy said the pinion axle is set to "factory with the lift" . . .
I have no idea what this means. All they can do is weld the control arm brackets on at the same orientatation as the stock axle. There is no way they can know what lift you have, how long the control arms are, which t-case you are running,etc. Hence there is nothing they can do when building the axle that will help get the pinion angle correct.

Off by a degree does not sound bad to me. I typically use the eyeball method. And besides, a little vibration is all part of the Jeep experience!!!
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