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Unread 05-03-2006, 08:23 PM   #1
Santo
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Detroit Locker Question

Can anyone explain to me how does the Detroit Locker works....

I mean how does it knows that you are going on a circle in order to unlock?

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Unread 05-07-2006, 02:06 AM   #2
WAC_Jeeper
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It is very smart!






jk

It actually never unlocks. What it does is allow a tire on the axle to spin faster than the driveline, but not slower. Therefor during a turn, the outside tire ratchets and over runs the inside tire, which is getting all the power. Thats why if you drive normally, tire wear is very minimal, however it is not hard to punch it a little harder and get the inside tire to bark.
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Unread 05-08-2006, 06:26 PM   #3
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http://www.detroitlocker.com/techtips.htm
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Unread 05-15-2006, 03:59 PM   #4
Santo
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I understand that, but what difference does it makes for one wheel going faster and thus uncoupling, with going into reverse and not uncoupling???

think about it.
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Unread 05-15-2006, 04:12 PM   #5
DestructoJr
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Santo
I understand that, but what difference does it makes for one wheel going faster and thus uncoupling, with going into reverse and not uncoupling???

think about it.
Think about it like teeth that mesh together and when Torque is applied to the rear end they push tight and dont allow the axle to slip either way forward and backwards, when TQ is released the teeth come apart allowing the wheels to turn at different speeds, Its like its spring loaded to come undone when not giving any TQ to the rear or front or whereever the Detroit is
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Unread 05-15-2006, 04:47 PM   #6
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Here's something I wrote 4-5 years ago that was recently revived on another forum... thought it might be useful here too.

Q: Why do we need lockers, I thought I had four wheel drive??

A: We need lockers for tough terrain because the differentials installed into most of our front and rear axles have a characteristic that can turn our 4x4 Jeeps into 4x2 Jeeps in tough traction situations.

A factory differential (sometimes called an "open differential") has a characteristic in that when one wheel loses traction, that wheel will start spinning ineffectively. You've seen that happen before, I'm sure. The bigger problem is that one spinning wheel on an axle causes both wheels to seem like they have very little traction... so even though the wheel on the other non-spinning side may have excellent traction, that non-spinning wheel won't receive enough power to keep you moving. Why? Because the differential screws up and only "sends power" to the wheel that is spinning. That is not technically totally accurate but it illustrates the problem very nicely, with a more technically accurate explanation as follows.

So the engine, via the drive shaft and differential, is seeing very little resistance from the axle with the spinning tire. So what? If the engine sees little resistance, it develops little torque. Low resistance to the engine, low developed torque. Lots of resistance to the engine causes it to develop lots of torque. Connect a dynamometer to an engine without a load on it and it'll show very little developed torque. Now put a brake of some kind against the engine output shaft (to add resistance) and the amount of torque developed by the engine will suddenly and dramatically rise. No resistance, very little developed torque... high resistance, a high amount of developed torque.

When a wheel starts spinning, the reduced resistance the engine sees from the axle causes the engine to dramatically reduce the torque it sends to the axle. Here's what else is going on that is a key to understanding this whole thing... a stock factory differential ALWAYS ALWAYS ALWAYS splits the torque it receives from the engine 50:50 to each wheel. Exactly 50-50, every time. So when one wheel is spinning and the engine torque decreases dramatically because of that, the OTHER wheel that still has good traction is seeing 50% of the greatly reduced torque. In fact, the torque sent to the axle is reduced so greatly that when the differential divides it 50-50, there is insufficient torque for the wheel with good traction to keep you moving. This means you're stuck!

So when you're driving on a dry paved road, both tires are receiving equal amounts of power and the high traction they're seeing from the dry road helps the engine to develop maximum torque. Both tires are pushing equally with lots of available torque. Now jack up a wheel (or lift it with a rock on a trail you just drove over) and you're not going to move even though the other tire is still on the ground. The tire in the air is spinning like crazy, causing the torque that axle receives from the engine to go right into the toilet.

So, when one tire on the axle is spinning, you don't have enough power for the other tire to keep you moving. For obvious reasons, all this is a huge problem for a 2wd vehicle (just one axle to drive you). It works exactly the same for a 4x4 but you have one more axle to assist in keeping you moving. But if one tire per axle has poor traction, you are stuck... since one spinning tire per axle is enough to reduce all developed torque from the engine down below the point the Jeep needs to move forward.

OK, we know what the problem is now, what's the fix? One, you could STEP ON THE BRAKES a little... which would stop the tire(s) from spinning so more torque would be developed, which should be enough for the OTHER tire that still has good traction to get you moving again. Yep, stepping on the brakes (to a point best learned by practice) works rather well in these situations. Just about all drivers used to know that technique when few roads were paved... but it's just about a lost art now.

So what does a locker do? It mechanically LOCKS the left and right wheel together to overcome the above problems. It won't allow one wheel to start spinning while the other sits doing nothing. The left and right wheels are mechanically locked together.

Automatic lockers keep the left and right sides locked together except when you turn left or right, where it will automatically unlock the outside wheel during the turn until after the turn is completed at which time it locks up again. When the locker unlocks for a turn, the outside wheel is allowed to rotate faster than the inside wheel so it doesn't hop and skip during the turn. The inside wheel is driving during a turn with an automatic locker-equipped vehicle. The locker automatically locks again once both wheels are turning at the same RPMs again.

The problem with an automatic locker is that most are not very street friendly. Because they keep the left and right wheels locked together except when forced to unlock for a turn, they can cause unusual handling characteristics like rear-end waggle, tire chirping, disconcerting loud bangs and snaps from the locker, and even sideways sliding down slippery off-camber slopes where they earned the nickname "low-side finder"... which can sometimes produce a high 'pucker-factor' at times. For offroading however, locker's negatives are far outweighed by their benefits in challenging conditions.

A manual locker is "open" (unlocked) until you actuate it. The ARB Air Locker and the cable-actuated Ox-Locker are examples of manual lockers. These are good because they remain unlocked until you choose to lock them. This eliminates the handling problems automatic lockers have on the streets.

By the way, a locker is installed inside the differential and it replaces the "spider" gears that make a differential work they way it does.

So some Jeepers add lockers in the rear, others add them to the front. I happen to think locking the rear axle first does the most good, but I have installed automatic lockers into both of my axles... which works pretty darned well. But if your rear axle is the notoriously weak Dana 35c that comes stock on all Wranglers except the Rubicon and Unlimited, avoid installing a locker in the rear axle and install it in the front axle instead. Since the front axle rarely receives more than 50% of the torque that the rear axle does, it can usually handle a locker without problem with reasonably sized tires. But if your rear axle is the optional and far stronger Dana 44, by all means install a locker into it if your trails are tough enough to make a locker desirable.

So what's a limited slip differential? First, it is not the same as a locker. It is more or less an automatic brake for the spinning tire... it's like stepping on the brakes so the spinning side slows down and more engine torque can be generated so the non-spinning tire can receive enough torque again from the engine to get you moving again. It operates as a brake somewhat by coupling the added resistance of the side with more traction/resistance to the side that has less traction/resistance. A LSD depends on some tire spin to get it working so it's not as efficient for challenging terrain as a locker is. But then generally speaking, a LSD is far more "driver friendly" on the streets, which is why we all just don't have lockers in our Jeeps.

Hope this helps a little.
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Read this sticky posted by Jerry this may help you some....
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Unread 05-18-2006, 07:51 PM   #7
miguelitojeep97
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ok quick question i have a stock rear dana 44 3.73 with trak lok, eventually wanna lock up the rear and get new gears.

anyone run a aussie in the rear?

also would i need to get a new carrier for 4.56 or 4.88?
also have an aussie up front would new gears not effect that carrier?
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