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Unread 11-15-2013, 11:08 PM   #1
Loamy
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Dana 44 cross pin removal - can I grind these teeth?

I'm replacing the alignment pins in my aussie locker which is in my TJ Dana 44 with a 3.73 set of gears. Based on this pic, can I get away with grinding a tooth to remove the cross shaft or do I need to pull the whole carrier? If possible I'd like to remove metal from the gear so I can swap pins more easily in the future... Any thoughts would be appreciated...

image-3165937587.jpg

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Unread 11-16-2013, 10:38 AM   #2
Red Rubicon
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Unread 11-16-2013, 11:02 AM   #3
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Don't grind it. You will regret it down the road.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 11:05 AM   #4
Loamy
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Specifically I'm talking about taking about a quarter of the tooth off on the toe side so I can pull the pin. According to Randy's ring and pinion it's not a big deal to take some metal off but I wasn't sure if specifically in this case that the overlap was too big...

Aussie locker ground it in their test rig and a lot of ARB installs need grinding.

I'm just on the fence about this being too much to take off to clear the pin.
http://www.ringpinion.com/technicalh...ding_Gears.inc
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Unread 11-16-2013, 02:17 PM   #5
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Maybe you'll be ok with it (read the link). I was always taught not to mess with them so I didn't.
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Unread 11-16-2013, 06:14 PM   #6
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You couldn't pay me to grind down a clean ring gear.
Pull the carrier.
Drop the ring gear.
Do your Aussie swap.
Reassemble.
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Unread 11-17-2013, 08:48 AM   #7
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Turn the carrier and see if the other side was done......or remove it all and pull the gear.

There is nothing wrong with removing only the amount of tooth you need to.

I do it all the time in diffs where you must and have no other options, and i have hundreds of them out there that are just fine, however i wouldn't expect everyone to know how to remove only whats needed and do it correctly where you remove it enough that the cross pin comes out and is so close
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Unread 11-22-2013, 02:24 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Turn the carrier and see if the other side was done......or remove it all and pull the gear.

There is nothing wrong with removing only the amount of tooth you need to.

I do it all the time in diffs where you must and have no other options, and i have hundreds of them out there that are just fine, however i wouldn't expect everyone to know how to remove only whats needed and do it correctly where you remove it enough that the cross pin comes out and is so close
Haha... wish it was that easy that the backside was done...

After pulling the carrier out, about a third of the tooth would have to go to clear the pin, some of it in in the contact patch with the pinion, so I'm not feeling happy about the idea any more..
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Unread 11-26-2013, 04:36 PM   #9
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Their are only a few applications where they recommend grinding a tooth down, and thats only on the C-Clip style axles, because you have to.

The D44 doesnt require it when you go to lower ratios, like most C-Clip style assemblies.

To grind it down because of your lack of patience or ability to do it the correct way (remove carrier, gear and reassemble), is not recommended.
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Unread 11-26-2013, 05:35 PM   #10
Loamy
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RWKHausSupply
Their are only a few applications where they recommend grinding a tooth down, and thats only on the C-Clip style axles, because you have to.

The D44 doesnt require it when you go to lower ratios, like most C-Clip style assemblies.

To grind it down because of your lack of patience or ability to do it the correct way (remove carrier, gear and reassemble), is not recommended.
I hear you... I'm getting about a year of life out of the pins with the power I have and now that I'm occasionally pulling an m101a1 trailer. I was trying to make it more of a quick fix because of the frequency I'm going through them but I'd have to take off too much to clear the pin... I might swap out to a grizzly and regear while I'm at it to try to keep these axles going for a while. Thanks for the input...
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