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Unread 06-20-2013, 12:36 PM   #1
kjg26
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Dana 30 pinion seal

I'm in the process of rebuilding a Dana 30 axle and am considering replacing the pinion seal. Is it possible to replace the seal without messing with the load? Is it as simple as marking the pinyin the yolk in the not as well as the death of the knot and installing it back to the exact same spot?

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Unread 06-20-2013, 01:06 PM   #2
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You can count the turns you make taking the nut off, then when you put it back on you put blue locktite on the thread toward where the nut will finally end up seated and put some on the nuts threads also, and put it back the same amount of turns, and then when you get to the final turn the nut and additional 5 degrees more.
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Unread 06-20-2013, 06:33 PM   #3
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Can I pull the pinion out too to get a good clean on everything or will that mess with something
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Unread 06-20-2013, 07:38 PM   #4
Evildriver-3
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No all you can do is change the seal, anything more is more involved and everything has to come apart
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Unread 06-20-2013, 07:46 PM   #5
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K. Thanks
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Unread 06-21-2013, 04:24 PM   #6
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Buy a new pinion nut, too. They are "aviation style" and are only meant to be installed and removed once.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 04:54 PM   #7
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How will I know the exact orientation for reinstallation with the new nut?
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:07 PM   #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kjg26 View Post
How will I know the exact orientation for reinstallation with the new nut?
Well, you could do it the right way by properly measuring preload before taking it apart. Or you could do the rough and dirty as described here, but count threads instead of using marked nut.
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Unread 06-21-2013, 05:40 PM   #9
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What are the steps to measuring preload
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Unread 06-21-2013, 06:27 PM   #10
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What are the steps to measuring preload
Get yourself an FSM or read on line (at Morris 4x4 for example). Full detail on this procedure and most anything else you'd want to do to your jeep. Or just read one of the other many threads about this topic where it has been discussed in detail.
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Unread 06-23-2013, 09:43 PM   #11
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You need tools you most likely don't have to measure preload, count the turns and use locktite and you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll be playing games with torque meter and having to either remove brakes and other things to make sure you aren't getting spikes.
If you count as explained and add the additional 5 degrees you'll be fine
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Unread 06-23-2013, 11:34 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3
You need tools you most likely don't have to measure preload, count the turns and use locktite and you'll be fine. Otherwise you'll be playing games with torque meter and having to either remove brakes and other things to make sure you aren't getting spikes.
If you count as explained and add the additional 5 degrees you'll be fine
Inch-pound beam style torque wrenches are cheap and work fine for setting preload. You do however need to pull everything out of the axle including the carrier in order to properly set the preload.

I do agree that the quick and dirty way that you describe will work as I've done the same in the past. However if I were the OP I would look into why the seal went bad. Is it just a worn out and old seal? Is there play in the pinion bearings? Is the yoke also worn out and tearing up the seal?
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Unread 06-24-2013, 08:36 AM   #13
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I wouldn't use a beam wrench for measuring pre-load
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:00 AM   #14
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Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
I wouldn't use a beam wrench for measuring pre-load
Why not? It works just fine in my experience as well as others that I personally know to have used them without issue.

One of these days I'll test it against the dial style I have at work and see how far off it is.
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Unread 06-24-2013, 09:27 AM   #15
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You can't make full even revolutions with a bar and watch it that it is making 12 or whatever inch lbs all the way thru, you are checking a rotational pre-load which a beam isn't designed for, you can with a beam wrench make a somewhat pull and guess it's the same all the way thru, however a beam to be accurate in what is is for needs the same hold at the handle all the time, which is why its designed for tightening a bolt and not a revolving load where the pull at the handle position changes. It's not the tool to use for pre-load, thats why a torque meter exists.
Checking pre-load isn't pull and see what it moves at, it is the entire revolution in one even motion at the same amount of force or speed. Making a complete revolution with a beam using the same force and holding the handle the same is not happening all the way thru a complete revolution or two
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