Could you take a 5 speed off a 4.0 TJ or LJ and convert it to fit a WJ with a 4.0.. This is my first post.. just wanted to stir up an idea.. I thought they may have similar bolt up points because both transmission are made for the same engine. But knowing how stuff like this usually goes it probably isn't easy. Just wanted to ask before I get my transmission rebuilt, went out with 215k on it.. The engine is still fine and in good shape. And I plan to run my Cherokee til it dies, so I'm willing to put money into rebuilding it..
The hard part is the clutch pedal. As it never came with a stick shift. Next is the check engine light-ECM as it will be looking for response from the auto-trans and not seeing it.It will not pass a smog test if needed in your local. Longer-shorter driveshafts.
Otherwise it is a great idea.
My Auto trans is getting rebuild as we speak. I just wanted to know if it was possible, I mean they are the same engine between the two Jeeps. Just the connection between them, clutch and flywheel, will be different. I could get a Wrangler computer and install it, maybe, or reprogram my computer to think its a Wrangler transmission.
The time and costs involved for your proposed swap would far exceed any added value. With enough money and skills, any swap is "possible", the question is do you have the time/money/skills required ?
I wouldn't want my tranny to be rigged. You're gonna lose some of the WJ's bells & whistles if you change the computer. I'd go shopping for a WJ with a manual.
If I had a WJ, I wouldn't wheel it. They weren't designed for heavy, intentional wheeling. The front and rear approach and departure angles are terrible. The body is huge compared to my XJ, but the WJ still has the same tiny axles. The weight of the body has made my buddy look like an idiot w/ no lift and 32's. It's lifted but sagging bad.
Comfort is one thing, but for wheeling I'd rather have a ZJ at least, even though the departure angles on those ain't much better.
If I had a WJ, I wouldn't wheel it. They weren't designed for heavy, intentional wheeling. The front and rear approach and departure angles are terrible. The body is huge compared to my XJ, but the WJ still has the same tiny axles. The weight of the body has made my buddy look like an idiot w/ no lift and 32's. It's lifted but sagging bad.
Comfort is one thing, but for wheeling I'd rather have a ZJ at least, even though the departure angles on those ain't much better.
I only wheel my Jeep when I have to. I have some gripy tires on it, only a size bigger than stock, where if it needs to perform it can. Such as going out to my Cabin on its rocky trail road. The way to look at a WJ is like looking at a Wagoneer. It is made for luxury but it has the capabilities if they are needed. So I agree with you completely. If it an't made to do it stock, it isn't intended to ever do it, though anything is possible..
I only wheel my Jeep when I have to. I have some gripy tires on it, only a size bigger than stock, where if it needs to perform it can. Such as going out to my Cabin on its rocky trail road. The way to look at a WJ is like looking at a Wagoneer. It is made for luxury but it has the capabilities if they are needed. So I agree with you completely. If it an't made to do it stock, it isn't intended to ever do it, though anything is possible..
Just for the fun of it, park next to an XJ, 2 & 4 dr are the same size, and take a look at the size of the body. Taller, wider, & longer with the same wheel base. I'd leave the WJ stock, and buy an XJ to curb the fever.
I'm sure your WJ is full of bells and whistles, some mods will cause you to sacrifice some of them, mostly sensors
Lol, you literally have no clue what you're taking about. That "issue" with his hood was because he dove nosed the front end....if you know what that means
In my opinion I'd never spend money on a unibody, I don't want what Im riding in to be the frame, I want my frame seperate, its stronger and more durable with a full frame and more capabilities
Man you have alot to learn on vehicle construction.Today's unibody vehicles are are somewhere around 300%+ stiffer then todays body on frame vehicles,and probally 3-4 times that compared to older body on frame vehicles.Don't let the massive damage fool you when a unibody vehicle get's hit,it's supposed to crumble to absorb and deflect the energy from the hit around the passenger compartment.A body on frame design will not and can not do that.Basically your chances of living from a good hit from a full size van is better in a Ford Fusion then a '80's Caddy.
Starting very soon,like next year, most of your HD vans(compareable to Fords E250/E350) will now be unibody.Stronger,safer,and can haul more then the bodu on frame variants.
Newer unibody's being stiffer means less body flexing offroad also.You can lift a unibody vehicle just like a body on frame and get as much flex as a body on frame vehicle.
Lol, you literally have no clue what you're taking about. That "issue" with his hood was because he dove nosed the front end....if you know what that means
Dam it you guys took all the wind out of my sail. I wheel the piss out of my wj and still have all the bells and whistles. all while haveing AC and leather seats and get this 2800 dollars a trim here a weld ther she's all done and in style to boot
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