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Unread 03-17-2014, 05:55 PM   #61
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Here's your paint chips
That would be the stupidity that was directly off topic and just being an *** comment , so there are your plate of paint chips to help compliment your short short memory.

No see what happens are you guys can't discuss, so you throw out dumb comments from another thread, as you have done.

Carry on talking him out of using the 60's he has and make him spend hours looking thru JY's endlessly.

.
OH I thought we were talking about the "making the dana 35 coment" so yep Im sucking down those paint chips, whatever that means

Im not talking anyone out of anything thing they dont all ready know which is you want one of the best out of the box ( box AKA junkyard axle ), found everyware in these great states, in several different flavors of WMS, with the chance of having a Detroit locker, with some decent gears and one hell of a pinion size then the 14 bolt is the answer.
And I'm not telling anyone to not use a 60 front, im prasing it to be used.

And if you would at least listen to what Solidkm is saying you would see that he has a semi float and WANTS it to be a FF, so in order for him to do that he will need double splined shafts, the FF hubs and the spindles.
Its not a matter what we ( me and you ) think its a matter of what he wanted even before this topic got brought up.

So in the end he has figured along with tons of others that a 14 bolt can be found with the gearing he needs ( 4.56's ), in FF which HE WANTS and can be found sometimes with a locker, plus as at a very low price.

Jason.

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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-17-2014, 08:21 PM   #62
Mk50
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Okay another problem I have a 6in skyjacker long arm lift I want to still use how would I go about this
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Unread 03-17-2014, 10:05 PM   #63
Wheelin98TJ
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If you are going though all the work of swapping in axles, I'd probably rework the suspension too.

Now would be the perfect time to do a 4 link rear and 3 link front with a track bar.

The SJ long arm kit uses short uppers, correct? What kind of shape are your joints in?
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Unread 03-17-2014, 10:29 PM   #64
Mk50
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There perfect and I believe so
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Unread 03-18-2014, 02:57 AM   #65
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk50 View Post
There perfect and I believe so
Probelm is you told us you wanted to get the axles narrowed, that now makes a packaging problem, can it all fit???
Normally when tons are brought into the Pic most are leaving them full size leaving room on the tubes to fit coils, you said something about retruning to a stock TJ WMS.
With the front ( not so mcuh the rear ) you run out of room fast on the short side even without a narrow job, parts fit ( coil bucket, truss to tube and LCA mount ) but with the OEM spring pad the coil bucket will have to be made to fit over it or gets welded to the cast pad section.

You drop 6"s or so out of the over all of that axle, the center section and C's start sucking up alot of the room needed to make it happen. Even on the long side things like the track arm and truss can get in the way of the front crank, its not and easy task.
It can be done but you will need to Mod as you go, its not going to be order a few name brand parts and plug them on, its all going to be custome with your old parts.

This is why you see guys dumping the coils and using soime type of air shock, less room and more travel.
Oh then add the high steer or even low steer into the mix and it gets buisy up front trust me

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-18-2014, 07:51 PM   #66
Mk50
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Okay I see I'll look into it more and I have wheel spacers not so I'll make it wider than stock if I narrow it
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