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Yukon Ultimate 35 axle kit for c/clip axles with Yukon ZipArtec Flash Sale - 15% off and Free Shipping over $300Jeep speedometer gears at rockridge4wd

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Unread 03-13-2014, 12:03 PM   #46
Solidkm
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Don't act like ***, just stick to what the op is needing or wanting. Not my fault you and others cant get a d35 to live

The g lok is what the 14 b does come with as a limited slip option.

Only some of the military stuff has the locker, and you don't realize you're talking to this person and possibly going to make him waste umpteen hours looking for something he may not find and he has more than he needs already.

I use a fullsize truck off road, twice the weight and twice the tq, haven't broken either of the 60's pin, even race that.
If you broke a 60 pin you did it doing something wrong, and by broken i am guessing you mean you broke the stem and not the teeth.
If it's the teeth that's totally different, i have a customer with a jeep he broke a 14b, the 3rd bearing went from repeated loading and unloading and then the rest all caved in and the total axle was unrepairable after that.

They do break

FF is nice, it is not necessary and that particular axle can handle probably more than it will see.

Why you getting hostile, bra? No one is knocking the 60s strength. At least im certainly not. Im preparing for a V8 LJ and i purchased front and rear 60s. BUT as I learned that I can easily find a CUCV or non(?) 14B with 4.56s already.. for less than i can get my 60 shafts cut.. this has my attention. Even if the 14B came ONLY in semi float.. coming 4.56 would still have my attention. I can set my own gears, but not having to buy gears (150-200) and not having to buy install kit (150?) is just added money back into my build, which already has me deeper than i wanted. Not having to buy drive flanges... not having to buy FF shafts for my 60... its just better money spend for me.

your comment on making a dana 35 live is appalling. Regardless of foolish pride, why would anyone even want to take this challenge? i saw a friend in a 4cyl stock TJ rip a burn out at a stop light once... and he spun the shaft into pieces. next thing you know we were looking at the tire and 1/2 a shaft disconnected from the jeep. If he was on 33s or greater i would say he got what he asked for... but a vehicle should be able to handle itself in stock trim. how furious would you be if you bought a new 2500...got excited ...ripped some throttle and you broke an axle in stock trim? take that piece of **** back and buy another brand. the dana 35 was a mistake from day one. and it always was. i do not want to talk anymore dana 35. putting money into it is just not wise. im sorry

there is a four wheeler article that says that the d35 is so worthless that even a brake job is an excuse to swap it out. dont spend one dollar on it. i cant find it..but i will post it if i do.

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Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-13-2014, 12:17 PM   #47
Solidkm
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about the lockers... as mentioned before... im driving a late model GMC 2500 overseas and it is indeed a 14 bolt under it. and there is a button on the dash for an electric locker of some sorts. Any one have info on this unit? is finding a 14b with thus unit worthwhile? i can post pictures if need be
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-13-2014, 12:22 PM   #48
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Solidkm View Post
about the lockers... as mentioned before... im driving a late model GMC 2500 overseas and it is indeed a 14 bolt under it. and there is a button on the dash for an electric locker of some sorts. Any one have info on this unit? is finding a 14b with thus unit worthwhile? i can post pictures if need be
Not sure what you have there, but I will search around.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-13-2014, 11:20 PM   #49
Mk50
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I'm planning on putting a 14b under my Dailey driver what would I have to do to get the width right?
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Unread 03-14-2014, 12:06 AM   #50
Solidkm
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well what width do you want? if youre going to go with matching front ( dana 60 ) then youre looking at ~69 inches right there. and thats ~9 more than a stock wrangler. It really starts with what front you get. the king pin pnes can be cut more bc the pumping is more centered t obegin with. and BJ ones tend to make the short side untouchable as it is short already. as i said before you can mixx and match shafts to get around 66.6". ( maybe other combos of housings and shafts will produce shorter with out having custom shafts cut) also generally you want the front wide than the rear for road manners.

i am going with ~66.6 inch 1997 BJ ford 60 with 78-79 ford snowfighter inner long shft to make it the minus 2.4
then im going to go with a 14B at 63-65" and hummer H2 wheels.
__________________
Popular 4WD formulas.
1. Building for the "smallest, lightest" platform equals building a suzuki samurai
2. A dana 44 JR is still not a dana 44 (Every .938" counts)
3. A ford 8.8 is the only axle that has the capability to snag rocks, and other obstacles. Avoid this axle
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Unread 03-14-2014, 06:05 AM   #51
jason m
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Just watch out how much you narrow or run to much offset in the rims. The fact that you are putting larger tires on means more contact while you are turning and more rubbing when you flex.
So if you narrow the axles down to stock width, the one tons will not work they way you want them to without a lot of rubbing.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-15-2014, 09:42 AM   #52
Mk50
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Okay I see I just don't want it to be way outside the tub
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Unread 03-15-2014, 10:32 PM   #53
Wheelin98TJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
Don't act like ***, just stick to what the op is needing or wanting. Not my fault you and others cant get a d35 to live

The g lok is what the 14 b does come with as a limited slip option.

Only some of the military stuff has the locker, and you don't realize you're talking to this person and possibly going to make him waste umpteen hours looking for something he may not find and he has more than he needs already.

I use a fullsize truck off road, twice the weight and twice the tq, haven't broken either of the 60's pin, even race that.
If you broke a 60 pin you did it doing something wrong, and by broken i am guessing you mean you broke the stem and not the teeth.
If it's the teeth that's totally different, i have a customer with a jeep he broke a 14b, the 3rd bearing went from repeated loading and unloading and then the rest all caved in and the total axle was unrepairable after that.

They do break

FF is nice, it is not necessary and that particular axle can handle probably more than it will see.
When an axle you praise breaks, the driver was doing something wrong or you often say doing something stupid.

If its an axle you do not praise, "they do break".

That is hilariously flawed logic.
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Unread 03-16-2014, 10:42 AM   #54
Evildriver-3
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You like assuming things wheelin98. I didn't praise anything, When comments are made to do something mindlessly I comment on it, if you can't understand that there is nothing I can explain.

Jason you brought up the stupid comments or do I need to quote it for you where your backhanded unneeded comment points to why you got the comment you got.
.
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Unread 03-16-2014, 02:06 PM   #55
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Apparently people think loading and unloading axles are proper use and bouncing around while on the gas rather than find another approach is correct use and no axle should break from that, so yes it is usually 99% driver error. Seen every axle break and EVERY time it was misuse except for some drag racing vehicles that had the power to go beyond that axles rating, some, and even there many of them are from loading and unloading.

So when im off-road and the guy up front floors it and bounces thru most of the 20' section of steep ledges of trail and snaps his axle after the 8 or 11 bounce thats because he was driving correctly, and then the guy behind goes to the left of that a little to line up the ledges better and barely a slip from the tire, that would be driver fault on that broken axle.

I've watched guys with 33's get to the top and the guy that had 40's didn't, i have seen that so many times over the years. Watched a guy with a old international go everywhere on pretty much a stock tire as i was concerned, while the k20 and 35's struggled.

.
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Unread 03-16-2014, 02:20 PM   #56
jason m
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Evildriver-3 View Post
You like assuming things wheelin98. I didn't praise anything, When comments are made to do something mindlessly I comment on it, if you can't understand that there is nothing I can explain.

Jason you brought up the stupid comments or do I need to quote it for you where your backhanded unneeded comment points to why you got the comment you got.
.
Yes please do, cause Im at a loss as to what post or whatever your talking about I said anything off what the OP was looking for.
You brought up the "just cause you guys cant make a dana 35 live comment" not me and thats when I said you were the one off track not stupid.

And when were "comments are made to do something mindlessly" made in this entire topic??? The Op started asking about G2 axles, then the conversation went into more of a junkyard front 60 and then off to the 14 bolt rear.
I brought that into the mix casue I was showing that one could be found with 4.56's and "sometimes" a Detroit locker from the junkyard

Then we talked about a the CUCV how "IF YOU COULD FIND ONE" then they will have all whats wanted ( except for disc brakes ) in package. Then I pointed the to fact that the 14 bolt with its 1 3/8" pinion is stronger than the dana 60 and how I have seen 4 break in the past.
Now here we are going over what we all talked about.

Did you eat paint chips as a young boy or something, cause every time axle's are brought up you have to be 100% right ( even tho you are not ) or you pick up your ball and stomp away.
I am right casue I can point to facts and can provide links and offer the years of service in the field that I have had to this site.
Ive read alot of other stuff you have to offer on motors and drive shafts and yes your knowledge in those feilds are way above average.

But when It comes to rears pulled straight of a junkyard truck even in a 1/4 ton Jeep the 14 bolt is buy far the winner. If thats not the case then ask why you see 90% of the rears used in a buggy/truggy and even street driven one ton set up Jeep are a 14 bolt and not a 60.
And all this info I post ( and prasie ) is coming from a guy who does not run a 14 bolt( im referring to me not you ), I did for 8 years but gave that up for a simple way to get rear steer.

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-16-2014, 07:01 PM   #57
Mk50
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If y'all can stop the bickering I would like a list of what to do once you get a junkyard 14b and what to put in it
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Unread 03-16-2014, 09:44 PM   #58
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk50 View Post
If y'all can stop the bickering I would like a list of what to do once you get a junkyard 14b and what to put in it
Well are you set on having the ARB, if so you will need a parts kit for the axle, the locker ( of course ) and if you dont get a newer axle with disc brakes then depending on what axle ( SRW or DRW ) then you will need the disc brake brackets, the 1/2 ton GM calipers and the 3/4 ton rotors.

Then I would go threw the axle checking the bearings in the hubs, if they need replacing then you will need seals cause the come out the back side were the seal is.
If you find one with gears you want to run them great if not get them now but keep in mind you need to match the carrier break so orrdering the right air locker is a must.

Weld the tubes to the housing, add a truss, link it and beat the %&*# out it and enjoy the fact it wont break on ya, peice of mind.
Now work on the front 60 and watch all your other drivetrain parts wimper under stress

Jason.
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1993 YJ 4.0 60 Front, Rear steer 60, bolth spooled, 5.38's, 700r/241 39.5 iroks and beating it like it owes me money.

And on the 8th day, God created the 14 bolt....
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Unread 03-17-2014, 07:50 AM   #59
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Here's your paint chips
Quote:
This is the big boy world we play in, we are not racing GT mustangs around a 1/4 mile track ( or whatever the size is ), or blowing donuts in the snow. Most here want to play hard on the rocks, that means bigger the better.

But you run along, im sure there is a circle track drag race coming up that you need to tune that 700HP grand for, we will play over here
That would be the stupidity that
Quote:
Yes please do, cause Im at a loss as to what post or whatever your talking about I said anything off what the OP was looking for.
was directly off topic and just being an *** comment , so there are your plate of paint chips to help compliment your short short memory.

No see what happens are you guys can't discuss, so you throw out dumb comments from another thread, as you have done.

Carry on talking him out of using the 60's he has and make him spend hours looking thru JY's endlessly.

.
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Unread 03-17-2014, 04:32 PM   #60
Mk50
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Okay sounds pretty simple
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